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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Differential Breather Extension", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I just posted 3 pics in my gallery of my diff beather.
1: remove factory breather
2: screw in 1/4" barb fitting
3: attatch 3/8" hose long enough to reach the bottom of the bed
4: install factory breather in the top of the 3/8 hose, secure with hose clamp
5: secure to the bottom of the bed
This is very easy and cheap.
Let me know what ya think, I have been thru 3' of rushing water and nothing got in the diff.
victor
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
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Well with all the rain we've been having around here lately, I thought I would relocate the rear diff breather in case I had any deep water crossings on my way to work.
From stuff pretty much laying around in my tool box, I came up with this conflageration.
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My daily driver - 2008 Yaris sedan 'S'. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs.
My favorite ride - a 2001 SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's - mounts welded up by AJ at BentUp.com, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank from Wheelers Off-Road, Inc, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with transmission temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedometer Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer Grill Guard, brush guard and 9.5ti winch w/cover. Budbuilt traction bar. Wheelers Off Road Centric performance brake rotors: cross-drilled and slotted. Staun tyre deflators set for 13 psi. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
I can't post any pictures yet as my truck is on Guam and I'm in Colorado Springs but I was able to run the coiled hose up to the the bottom of the bed, across to the driver rear fender and up in to the stake pocket. Just outside of the stake pocket I installed a K&N intake breather. Works pretty good as the only way that the filter will get flooded is if the whole bed was under water. Then the axle leaking would be the least of my worries. When I get home and have some time I'll take some pics.
herbicidal, cool setup, but i would keep a close eye on the coils rubbing on the abs sensor wires. maybe tie strap the hose so it can't rub on anything. you don't want a hole in your line where it's difficult to see and end up having water in the pumpkin despite your new setup.
just a friendly reminder from someone who's had trouble before with things rubbing under a vehicle... those air hose coils are heavy enough they will bounce around on every rock your tires hit and could wear a hole in the hose pretty quickly.
other than that, great (and inexpensive!) setup. good luck!
Cupidstoy - thanks for your concern and the tip. What you can't see in that picture is that one of the air hose coils is zipped tied to a corner of the gas tank cover to keep it in place (there's a perfect size hole right in the corner of the cover), yet it allows it to flex when the rear end is articulating.
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My daily driver - 2008 Yaris sedan 'S'. Tinted windows in the rear, TRD anti-sway bar for the rear, 17" rims - Samurai SC02 Hyper Black. TRD lowering springs.
My favorite ride - a 2001 SR5 4x4. With - RCD 6" lift, JBA Titanium coated headers, JBA y-pipe, Unichip PnP, ARB rd-129 air locker (rear), Camburg UCA's, custom front Sway-A-Way coilovers, custom Sway-A-Way's with remote reservoirs and billet mounts for the hind-quarters, PolyPerformance limit straps with adjustable clevis's - mounts welded up by AJ at BentUp.com, Stubbs Welding rock sliders and custom front skid plate, 315/75/16 Toyo Open Country M/T's, on all 4 corners wrapped around 16x8 MB Motoring Blitz rims, cryo'd 4.88's set up by Inchworm Gear, Trenz billet grill upper, T-Rex billet grill lower, on board VI-AIR aircompressor and 3 gallon air tank from Wheelers Off-Road, Inc, AutoMeter A-pillar pod with transmission temp gauge (sending unit in the tranny pan), Long Tru-Cool LPD tranny cooler, 10" Flex-a-Lite tranny cooler fan w/thermostat, TRD billet oil filler cap, TRD air filter, TRD dual exhaust, and TRD add-a-leaf rear springs. Superlift TruSpeed Speedometer Recalibrator. Warn Trans4mer Grill Guard, brush guard and 9.5ti winch w/cover. Budbuilt traction bar. Wheelers Off Road Centric performance brake rotors: cross-drilled and slotted. Staun tyre deflators set for 13 psi. Our home away from home, 2004 Outback 26RS travel trailer with 15" MB Motoring Blitz rims to match the Tundra.
Is it possible for the stock breather to clog or jam up?
I was changing my diff fluid this weekend, and noticed on the rear when I unscrewed the filler nut a bunch of air rushed past the threads. So either my diff was pressurized, or was negative pressure... Either way, I don't think that's right. The cap on the breather was loose, so I dunno what was up.
Is it possible for the stock breather to clog or jam up?
I was changing my diff fluid this weekend, and noticed on the rear when I unscrewed the filler nut a bunch of air rushed past the threads. So either my diff was pressurized, or was negative pressure... Either way, I don't think that's right. The cap on the breather was loose, so I dunno what was up.
Yes, it's possible to get clogged. Having it clogged with increasing pressure in the diff could also ruin your axle seals. Have you noticed any gear oil leaking from the outer ends of your axle? If not, be sure to clean out the breather and have it extended like Herb's. I've done the same thing except with some clear rubber hose purchased at my local hardware store. The cap is always loose and is crimped on so, it doesn't fly off.
mine did the same thing. the cap has a little flat rubber disk with a spring on top to hold it against the mating surface on the nipple that comes out of the axle housing. i don't know if the spring tension is too tight or if it just jams easily. when i took mine apart, i could not see any dirt or oil buildup that would have caused it to stick closed, but i definitely had pressure build up in the axle housings and diff. it may be one of those hydraulic pressure things. with the mechanical advantge of the very tiny breather hole, the spring doesn't have to do much work for noticable pressure to buildup in the diff cavity. maybe a questionable design? i don't know. i keep a close eye on mine and am planning to do the extension when the weather gets nicer.
I've not been able to find a thread where someone mentions the thread size on the differential. Someone did say 1/4" but it didn't seem to specify whether that was the thread size and if it was NPT (I assume it is). Does anyone know for sure? I don't really want to pull off the breather and drive to the store with it off.
I'm in the middle of a rear axle project and much to my delight I found that the thread for the rear diff breather cap is 1/8" NPT!!!
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