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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Help! 2000 Tundra -- Dealer says $1200 E-Throttle Assembly??", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I'm not sure what to do here... I've got a 2000 Tundra, 107k miles, that I bought new. It's ran great until recently the idle started sitting low... real low. 100-300rpm. Lately it has become a real issue as the truck has started stalling while in motion at low speeds-- very troubling/annoying when you stall doing 5-10mph in rush hour traffic on I-15, have to pull off the road and put the transmission in park to restart it-- only to have it do it again minutes later.
Being car-dumb (and probably a bit lazy), I took it to the dealership where I was told the *entire* electronic throttle assembly needs to be replaced at $1200, along with a new water pump, Left/Right Cam Cover Gasgets, PCV Grommits, etc. By the end of the followup phone call, I was at $3400 in parts and service.
So I came home, payed for a subscription to TS and started searching, reading, searching and more reading. I read all about Cleaning the Throttle Body, found a few posts on tightening/adjusting the throttle cable, etc, found a number of references to the TBW config, but nothing service related.
Soooo.... I'm trying to decide if I should buy this man's gas. The dealership is one of the more reputable ones in the area, though I'm not sure that really means much. I'm ready to take it to another mechanic to get their take on it. However, I'm generally suspicious that I'll still end up with $3000 in work, only on different parts, of which will still be throttle related.
The alternative is to bring it home, and clean the throttle body, adjust the throttle cable, all so I don't end up paying another $100 "diagnostic" fee 3 days from now if it doesn't solve the problem.
Before I have him pull it off the blocks, I thought I'd fire this off and see if anyone else has any thoughts or suggestions.
Thanks,
Kyle Mallory
Layton, UT
And btw, this group is awesome. I'm getting all excited about my truck again!
I'd try cleaning the throttle body and MAF (mass air flow sensor) first. If there's no improvement then try a reputable independant shop.
Water pump and cam cover gaskets make me think you haven't changed the cam timing belt yet and that'd concern me a bit. That belt slips or breaks and all kinds of expensive noises happen . Replacement's recommended at 90K.
Larry
__________________
2004 Tundra V8 Limited Access Cab 4X4, Michelin 265/65/R17 ATX2 tires, Auto Dim Comp/Temp Mirror, Aero Turbine #2525 muffler, Access Roll Up Cover, Optima D31A battery, Multi-Vex adaptive outside mirrors, Eclipse AVN5510 Nav unit and Sirius SIR-ECL1 tuner as of 10/07 pictures in my photo gallery
If a combo of all these whizz bangs met their claims you'd have to syphon gas out of your tank every second day and sell the excess horsepower on the third????
Is the engine missing also? I wonder when it had a tune-up last? I would pull a spark plug and see what the condition is before I took it back in to the dealer. If you do the TB clean then get a can of comlpete fuel system cleaner and run thru it also. Good Luck. Also clean the MAF as LGL002 says.
The alternative is to bring it home, and clean the throttle body, adjust the throttle cable, all so I don't end up paying another $100 "diagnostic" fee 3 days from now if it doesn't solve the problem.
Cleaning the throttle body is very good advice and may very well solve your problem.
However, don't do anything to the throttle cable...it's simply there as a backup "limp home" mechanism and is NOT the actual means by which the throttle plate inside the throttle body is operated. The primary control of the throttle plate is an electric motor on the side of the throttle body that is in turn controlled by Engine Control Unit. Connected to the throttle pedal inside the truck is a Throttle Position Sensor that tells the ECU how much power you want. The ECU then tells the throttle motor how far to open the throttle plate. In the event of failure of this throttle-by-wire system, Toyota included the backup throttle cable on the '00 to '02 models. Beginning with the '03 models, the backup mechanical throttle cable was eliminated.
Your idle is therefore completely controlled by the ECU through the throttle motor. If you are still having problems with the idle after cleaning the throttle body, then it's possible that throttle motor (or one of the associated position sensors) is malfunctioning. It's also possible that one or more of the other engine sensors (e.g. crankshaft position, temperature) is malfunctioning and causing the ECU to send an improper signal to the throttle motor.
If this is the case, the cost can be several hundred $ in parts/labor(including a lot of diagnostic labor) though I think that $1200 sounds way too high.
__________________ Ray
Natural White '03 Access Cab V8 SR5 4X4 with TRD Off Road Suspension, Limited Slip Differential, and Towing Package
Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Hellwig Anti-Roll bar, Prodigy Trailer Brake Controller, Autometer Z-Series Transmission Temperature Gauge, Magnefine Transmission Filter
Utility & Misc Mods: Genuine Toyota OEM Step (Nerf) bars, Peragon Tonneau Cover, TracRac Rack and Rail System, Muth Signal Mirrors, Pop&Lock tailgate lock, TruSpeed speedometer calibrator, "$20" RS-3200 Upgrade, Auto-Dimming mirror w/ Temp and Compass, Clear/Red/Clear Taillights with Silverstar Signal bulbs, 3M Clear Bra
If you are still having problems with the idle after cleaning the throttle body, then it's possible that throttle motor (or one of the associated position sensors) is malfunctioning. It's also possible that one or more of the other engine sensors (e.g. crankshaft position, temperature) is malfunctioning and causing the ECU to send an improper signal to the throttle motor.
Wouldn't the malfunctioned components show up as a diagnostic code? Seems like it would be easiest to read out the diagnostic codes and go from there.
__________________ 2004 Toyota Tundra V6 Reg Cab 2wd Auto (Phantom Gray)
Wouldn't the malfunctioned components show up as a diagnostic code? Seems like it would be easiest to read out the diagnostic codes and go from there.
Maybe, maybe not. Certainly worth starting with a full OBDII scan but not all sensor malfunctions will generate a diagnostic code. If they do, then yes, the fix is straightforward. If not, then a whole lot more troubleshooting will be required.
__________________ Ray
Natural White '03 Access Cab V8 SR5 4X4 with TRD Off Road Suspension, Limited Slip Differential, and Towing Package
Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Hellwig Anti-Roll bar, Prodigy Trailer Brake Controller, Autometer Z-Series Transmission Temperature Gauge, Magnefine Transmission Filter
Utility & Misc Mods: Genuine Toyota OEM Step (Nerf) bars, Peragon Tonneau Cover, TracRac Rack and Rail System, Muth Signal Mirrors, Pop&Lock tailgate lock, TruSpeed speedometer calibrator, "$20" RS-3200 Upgrade, Auto-Dimming mirror w/ Temp and Compass, Clear/Red/Clear Taillights with Silverstar Signal bulbs, 3M Clear Bra
Cleaning the throttle body is very good advice and may very well solve your problem.
However, don't do anything to the throttle cable...it's simply there as a backup "limp home" mechanism and is NOT the actual means by which the throttle plate inside the throttle body is operated. The primary control of the throttle plate is an electric motor on the side of the throttle body that is in turn controlled by Engine Control Unit. Connected to the throttle pedal inside the truck is a Throttle Position Sensor that tells the ECU how much power you want. The ECU then tells the throttle motor how far to open the throttle plate. In the event of failure of this throttle-by-wire system, Toyota included the backup throttle cable on the '00 to '02 models. Beginning with the '03 models, the backup mechanical throttle cable was eliminated.
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Ray, I am certain on the 2000 that the Throttle Pedal Sensor is on the passenger side of the trottle body on the 2000 Tundra. The Throttle Position Sensor is on the drivers side of the TB. I think they even eliminated the cable on the later models when they moved the Throttle Pedal Sensor inside the truck as you were saying. I know this has nothing to do with this topic but I had to replace my Pedal Sensor a couple of years ago and I did the work myself. Aside from this you are correct that you should never adjust the cable all of the adjustment is done when you install the Throttle Pedal sensor itself.
Thanks for the info and feedback. From what I could discern from talking to him, he wanted to replace the cam gaskets because the TB was dirty, and that must be the likely cause.
It did need the timing belt replaced, so I had them do that, and told them to hold off on the TBW Assembly. They finished up this afternoon and he reported that they decided to clean the TB in the shop only to see a 300-400 RPM increase (putting me right in the ballpark)... Imagine that.
Tomorrow the TB is coming back off to get a proper cleaning!
Ray, I am certain on the 2000 that the Throttle Pedal Sensor is on the passenger side of the trottle body on the 2000 Tundra. The Throttle Position Sensor is on the drivers side of the TB. I think they even eliminated the cable on the later models when they moved the Throttle Pedal Sensor inside the truck as you were saying. I know this has nothing to do with this topic but I had to replace my Pedal Sensor a couple of years ago and I did the work myself. Aside from this you are correct that you should never adjust the cable all of the adjustment is done when you install the Throttle Pedal sensor itself.
Mitch
Thanks for the info, Mitch, regarding the different location of the Throttle Pedal Sensor between the 1st and 2nd generation Tundras. I will make a note of this because it will most certainly come up again. As you know (re the recent thread on locking gas cap doors), it's extremely hard to keep track of where/what parts Toyota changed between what's effectively 1st gen ('00-'02), 2nd gen ('03-04) and the 3rd gen ('05-?) Tundras.
Really appreciate your correction on this.
__________________ Ray
Natural White '03 Access Cab V8 SR5 4X4 with TRD Off Road Suspension, Limited Slip Differential, and Towing Package
Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Hellwig Anti-Roll bar, Prodigy Trailer Brake Controller, Autometer Z-Series Transmission Temperature Gauge, Magnefine Transmission Filter
Utility & Misc Mods: Genuine Toyota OEM Step (Nerf) bars, Peragon Tonneau Cover, TracRac Rack and Rail System, Muth Signal Mirrors, Pop&Lock tailgate lock, TruSpeed speedometer calibrator, "$20" RS-3200 Upgrade, Auto-Dimming mirror w/ Temp and Compass, Clear/Red/Clear Taillights with Silverstar Signal bulbs, 3M Clear Bra
Thanks for the info and feedback. From what I could discern from talking to him, he wanted to replace the cam gaskets because the TB was dirty, and that must be the likely cause.
It did need the timing belt replaced, so I had them do that, and told them to hold off on the TBW Assembly. They finished up this afternoon and he reported that they decided to clean the TB in the shop only to see a 300-400 RPM increase (putting me right in the ballpark)... Imagine that.
Tomorrow the TB is coming back off to get a proper cleaning!
KM
Amazing what preventative mainenance will do for you, isn't it?!
Now just keep up w/the preventative maint. It's all really easy, replace the plugs, clean the TB clean the MAF, rotate the tires, change the oil, always make sure you have a well lubricated driveshaft (usually I have this checked during oil changes), tranny oil changes, all the above, if you do this you will have a very happy Tundra!!!
__________________
08 Silver Crewmax 5.7 4x4 SR5... ICON, CAMBURG, ALCAN, RBP, TOYO, ECLIPSE, SAVV, FOSGATE, KICKER, JL AUDIO, V-LEDS, PIAA, HELLA www.wheelersoffroad.com for all your suspension needs!!!
This is kinda IRONIC,
MY THROTTLE PEDAL POSITION SENSOR died the other day.
It was erratic low/high/low but mostly would idle low , it would die now and then. Then it fianlly went and set a few codes. It was warranty !
All is well....
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
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This is kinda IRONIC,
MY THROTTLE PEDAL POSITION SENSOR died the other day.
It was erratic low/high/low but mostly would idle low , it would die now and then. Then it fianlly went and set a few codes. It was warranty !
All is well....
Yeah it cost almost $300 retail if you got to buy it! I got mine for $180 dealer cost. The first time mine caused problems I was trying to pull out and all I could get was idle speed
Help! 2000 Tundra -- Dealer says $1200 E-Throttle Assembly??
. Replacement's recommended at 90K.
