I went to turn on the AC today ( first time in a while) and I hear a hissing noise like air is escaping. EVentually a white cloud starts to come out from under the hood and so I pop the hood and see that the lower AC pipe (from what i can guess the smaller of the two) has come out and it apparently isnt sealing too well. I pushed it back in and didnt turn the AC back on. It left a green residue on where the cloud settled...
I dont have much knowledge in this area so any help would be appreciated. Is it just a matter of replacing these two O ring seals on the tubing?
__________________ SR5 V6 4X4 5Spd Modifications Include... ACT performance clutch, Bassani Split Side Duals, Fabtech Shocks and front Coilovers, IS Kit, Grillecraft Grille, BBS Wheels, 285/75/16 Firestone Destination M/T's for wheelin, 20" Enkei RT-6's w 295/50/20's for street , Air Box Mod, Pro Comp Boost GaugeTRD Supercharger, URD Fuel kit, URD 2.2 Pulley ALL GONE - Now Audi S4 Avant
I went to turn on the AC today ( first time in a while) and I hear a hissing noise like air is escaping. EVentually a white cloud starts to come out from under the hood and so I pop the hood and see that the lower AC pipe (from what i can guess the smaller of the two) has come out and it apparently isnt sealing too well. I pushed it back in and didnt turn the AC back on. It left a green residue on where the cloud settled...
I dont have much knowledge in this area so any help would be appreciated. Is it just a matter of replacing these two O ring seals on the tubing?
You've lost all or nearly all the refrigerant in your system...and it undoubtedly now has air inside it as well. After you replace the 0-rings, you must evacuate the system with a vacuum pump (including a leak-down check to make sure it will hold a vacuum), then add the precise quantity (measured in ounces) of refrigerant specified by Toyota. Generally it's best to let a shop that specializes in auto air conditioning do the evacuation and filling.
__________________ Ray
Natural White '03 Access Cab V8 SR5 4X4 with TRD Off Road Suspension, Limited Slip Differential, and Towing Package
Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Hellwig Anti-Roll bar, Prodigy Trailer Brake Controller, Autometer Z-Series Transmission Temperature Gauge, Magnefine Transmission Filter
Utility & Misc Mods: Genuine Toyota OEM Step (Nerf) bars, Peragon Tonneau Cover, TracRac Rack and Rail System, Muth Signal Mirrors, Pop&Lock tailgate lock, TruSpeed speedometer calibrator, "$20" RS-3200 Upgrade, Auto-Dimming mirror w/ Temp and Compass, Clear/Red/Clear Taillights with Silverstar Signal bulbs, 3M Clear Bra
You've lost all or nearly all the refrigerant in your system...and it undoubtedly now has air inside it as well. After you replace the 0-rings, you must evacuate the system with a vacuum pump (including a leak-down check to make sure it will hold a vacuum), then add the precise quantity (measured in ounces) of refrigerant specified by Toyota. Generally it's best to let a shop that specializes in auto air conditioning do the evacuation and filling.
Is it ok to run the truck without the AC on? Dumb question I know but just checking...Thanks for the quick response
__________________ SR5 V6 4X4 5Spd Modifications Include... ACT performance clutch, Bassani Split Side Duals, Fabtech Shocks and front Coilovers, IS Kit, Grillecraft Grille, BBS Wheels, 285/75/16 Firestone Destination M/T's for wheelin, 20" Enkei RT-6's w 295/50/20's for street , Air Box Mod, Pro Comp Boost GaugeTRD Supercharger, URD Fuel kit, URD 2.2 Pulley ALL GONE - Now Audi S4 Avant
Is it ok to run the truck without the AC on? Dumb question I know but just checking...Thanks for the quick response
Yes...just don't cause the AC compressor to engage under any condition until you get the system properly recharged. And, unless you've done the applicable mod, remember that if you happen to use either of the defrost positions on the heater dial, it will activate the AC compressor. I kinda sorta recall there's a fuse specifically for the AC in the fuse box under the hood...you might want to check and, if so, pull that fuse to prevent the AC compressor from being accidentally activated.
__________________ Ray
Natural White '03 Access Cab V8 SR5 4X4 with TRD Off Road Suspension, Limited Slip Differential, and Towing Package
Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Hellwig Anti-Roll bar, Prodigy Trailer Brake Controller, Autometer Z-Series Transmission Temperature Gauge, Magnefine Transmission Filter
Utility & Misc Mods: Genuine Toyota OEM Step (Nerf) bars, Peragon Tonneau Cover, TracRac Rack and Rail System, Muth Signal Mirrors, Pop&Lock tailgate lock, TruSpeed speedometer calibrator, "$20" RS-3200 Upgrade, Auto-Dimming mirror w/ Temp and Compass, Clear/Red/Clear Taillights with Silverstar Signal bulbs, 3M Clear Bra
I got into a front end 'mishap' a while back and had to use an aftermarket condenser to save a few $$. Not sure why yours is damaged, but you could always replace the condenser if it's bad and then just pay a shop to recharge it. They do the vaccuum, test, and charge all at once.
Once the refrigerant is gone, you won't harm it any by replacing the condenser (once again, if it's bad) Toyota wanted a few hundred dollars for the new condenser, but the cheapo aftermarket ($100 or so, I think) one came without o rings and my old ones were kinda cracked and rotted. I just bought o-rings from hardware store and they worked fine. Three years later, it's still charged and works just fine.
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover