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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Rear oil seal leaking-repeated failure", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Well, it turns out that one of the bearings was bad. And when I say bad, I mean way bad. There was about 2mm of runout in the bearing and it needed to be replaced. Also invested about $14 in a seal driver kit from harbor freight. My install of the seals last time was <<ahem>>less than adequate.
Bad news is that I seem to have stripped off the diff filler plug AND the drain plug (!^!$%$!!) NOTE TO SELF: invest in six sided sockets. Although these are 24mm, they MUST be spun with a six point socket NOT a 12!! I basically just removed the axles and took them over to River City Differentials in Rancho Cordova. Once again, Tedd's going to be apoplectic but he did a good job. Sean took me right in, brought me into the shop and pressed everything up for me; he had some special jigs for the Toyota axles and was able to save the ABS rings for me. He only charged me $50 for both and most shops I called wanted $100 for both. Not sure yet if it was a good idea to re-use them. You see, my ABS light is stuck in the 'ON' position. Anyone know what this means?
Were you able to determine that your axle's are straight? There is a TSB concerning bent axles and rear brake problems on the 2000 Tundra's.
Were you able to determine that your axle's are straight? There is a TSB concerning bent axles and rear brake problems on the 2000 Tundra's.
Mitch
I couldn't verify that the axle was/was not the problem. The bearing was in pretty bad shape so I was hoping it was the cause and not a symptom of a larger problem. The shop I took the axles to offered to check it with a dial indicator when the truck is all put back together.
Late last night I had an epiphany about the ABS light, I removed the sensors and took a look down into the machined hole for the sensors. I am only able to see about 3/4 of the ABS gears on the axle, I suspect that these were not prssed all the way down onto the shaft causing an error when the ABS system self-tests at start up. I am going back over to the shop this morning to see what they can help me with and I'll have him check it with the dial indicator to see what's going on.
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
I couldn't verify that the axle was/was not the problem. The bearing was in pretty bad shape so I was hoping it was the cause and not a symptom of a larger problem. The shop I took the axles to offered to check it with a dial indicator when the truck is all put back together.
Late last night I had an epiphany about the ABS light, I removed the sensors and took a look down into the machined hole for the sensors. I am only able to see about 3/4 of the ABS gears on the axle, I suspect that these were not prssed all the way down onto the shaft causing an error when the ABS system self-tests at start up. I am going back over to the shop this morning to see what they can help me with and I'll have him check it with the dial indicator to see what's going on.
Toyota said that the ABS light being constantly lit means 'ABS system is inactive' OBDII scanner showed no codes. Toyota said they'd be happy to take the truck in and redo the work to see that it's been done rigght. Their quote? $1000 I'd rather rip the ABS out by it's roots than give in yet. OBDII apparently doesn't read ABS codes, Toyota has some other way to do this. Anyone have any ideas on what this is?
I was also going to check the wires on the sensor and see if they're shorted or have been pulled out somehow. I've been told that as long as at least 1/2 of the tone ring can be seen through the sensor hole that the system should be okay. I am going to try to test out the wires and stuff before having him repress everything. which he said he'd be happy to do for me at no charge. There is no way that the bearings can be on incorrectly as there are snap/retainer rings that hold them down, then a collar to space the tone ring, then the tone ring then another spacer. I watched it being done. He said he'll even take a look at it for me if I bring it by tonight. Is this the same River City that Tedd dealt with?!?!?
At $142 ea this could be a fairly costly testing procedure.
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
Herb's friend Rick who works at Maita Toyota has a scanner that can read the ABS error codes. You might try to contact Herb to see if Rick can help you out with your ABS problem.
Rick
__________________
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Herb's friend Rick who works at Maita Toyota has a scanner that can read the ABS error codes. You might try to contact Herb to see if Rick can help you out with your ABS problem.
Rick
Thanks, Rick. I sent a PM to Herb. Maybe we can hire Herb's Rick as a technical consultant here (JK).
Mitchr, I was going to post this in your other thread, but hopefully this helps you in some way to diagnose your problem.
I had kind of an unusual noise in the past few months when backing into my space at my apartment complex. If I backed in a bit too fast, when the rears hit the curb I heard a slight rattle. At first I thought maybe the spring pack was loose or something. For the last few weeks I've had leaking seals. When I pulled the axles the driver's side bearing was real sloppy (several mm's of runout) the passenger side was 'sort of' sloppy but not as bad. I replaced both. One thing I did notice was that when I pulled the ABS sensors, the magnets on them had retained a nice slick of leaked gear oil and a whole bunch of shavings from the spalled bearing. Fearing the worst, I ordered up a whole slew of parts for the rebuild a week ago and had everything pressed on. The shop I went to used a dial indicator to check the axle and said it appeared to be in spec, but that there could be very minute problems with the axle that might not show with a dial indicator. He said I could pull the axle again and he could roll it on a table and see what was wrong. Not wanting to go through it again, I just figured that if I have to redo the work in a year I'll replace the shaft as well.
He also told me that bad bearings can cause an unacceptable degree of 'slop' in the axle shaft and can eventually lead to a failure in the diff as that slop would be transferred down the axle to the side gear and would cause misalignment that would eventually frag the rear-end. He told me that in cases where a rear blew he always recommends that the guys do the at least the rear bearings on that side, none ever do.
We decided that the tone rings can only be put in one way, and he explained to me that even if half of the teeth are showing that the ABS sensor will recgonize them. After calling Toyota, they told me that the rear ABS sensors are very fragile, especially when guys take their trucks wheeling, corrosion can weaken the wires and connectors and the mere act of pulling the sensor can damage it. It happens all the time in their shop. This would result in the ABS diag at start up not detecting the sensor, and rather than having ABS at a few wheels the system will shut itself off. If the ABS kicks on on 2 or 3 wheels the vehicle can lose control.
I am going to make a working assumption that it's the sensors until I can pull a code and see which one failed. Failing that, I may order up two sensors and see if I can return what I don't need. If that doesn't cure the problem, I may go with jumper wires to bypass everthing downstream of the ABS system.
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
Mike my brother Ken who works at TMMC in Cambridge Ontario (he has a 2000 Tun 2 wheel drive) has the same problem with his ABS light being on, and after talking to all in the know, it was determained that if the problem was intermittent, it had to do with the sensor picking up a signal while the wheel was rotating. If the ABS light is perminently on it would likely be that there was no signal to one of the sensors....hense could be a bad connection or loose wire, either way he hasn't got his fixed yet. Aparently there's a difference in the ABS systems between a 2 wheel and 4 wheel drive. He said a code scanner at a dealer could tell you, but you'd have to pay the dealer to read it. 30.00 was what I paid for the dealer to pull a code on my s/c install.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Donofrio
Toyota said that the ABS light being constantly lit means 'ABS system is inactive' OBDII scanner showed no codes. Toyota said they'd be happy to take the truck in and redo the work to see that it's been done rigght. Their quote? $1000 I'd rather rip the ABS out by it's roots than give in yet. OBDII apparently doesn't read ABS codes, Toyota has some other way to do this. Anyone have any ideas on what this is?
I was also going to check the wires on the sensor and see if they're shorted or have been pulled out somehow. I've been told that as long as at least 1/2 of the tone ring can be seen through the sensor hole that the system should be okay. I am going to try to test out the wires and stuff before having him repress everything. which he said he'd be happy to do for me at no charge. There is no way that the bearings can be on incorrectly as there are snap/retainer rings that hold them down, then a collar to space the tone ring, then the tone ring then another spacer. I watched it being done. He said he'll even take a look at it for me if I bring it by tonight. Is this the same River City that Tedd dealt with?!?!?
At $142 ea this could be a fairly costly testing procedure.
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He said a code scanner at a dealer could tell you, but you'd have to pay the dealer to read it. 30.00 was what I paid for the dealer to pull a code on my s/c install.
'Sactly! I would gladly pay $30 to have the code read. But he said that he wouldn't pull the code without the $180 minimun diagnostic fee. I HATE dealers...called about 3 of 'em...same story, I am going to keep trying. I certainly ain't paying $180 to get a code on a $140 part.
PS--Forgot to add, dunno if you have Autozones north of the border. But, here is the U.S. Autozone will loan you an OBDII scanner for a license and credit card. Unfortunately, this particular code isn't grabbed by the ODBII scanner.
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
'Sactly! I would gladly pay $30 to have the code read. But he said that he wouldn't pull the code without the $180 minimun diagnostic fee. I HATE dealers...called about 3 of 'em...same story, I am going to keep trying. I certainly ain't paying $180 to get a code on a $140 part.
PS--Forgot to add, dunno if you have Autozones north of the border. But, here is the U.S. Autozone will loan you an OBDII scanner for a license and credit card. Unfortunately, this particular code isn't grabbed by the ODBII scanner.
Dealer here in Kingsport will do the code for free if you agree to let them fix it, but the only time I had them do it they did not charge me or do the fix? It was weird but they sorta acted like the felt sorry for me since my warranty was out only a couple of months and it was a easy fix (throttle pedal sensor) but expensive part. Good Luck..
Dealer here in Kingsport will do the code for free if you agree to let them fix it, but the only time I had them do it they did not charge me or do the fix? It was weird but they sorta acted like the felt sorry for me since my warranty was out only a couple of months and it was a easy fix (throttle pedal sensor) but expensive part. Good Luck..
Just for laughs, here was a recent conversation:
Mike: Hi I was hoping to see if you could pull a code and let me know which ABS sensor was bad.
SA: Yep, diagnostic starts at $180 an hour.
Mike: Yeah, but I was hoping you could just tell me the code and let me know which sensor was bad so I could buy it myself.
SA: Well then I'd guess it wouldn't take us more than 30 minutes, in which case it'd only cost you about $90
Mike: Well, actually I was thinking that it wouldn't take you more than 30 seconds. But can you charge me for like 5 minutes?
SA: Nope, my guy has to take it for a ride and listen for noises, then he's gotta hop under and see if there are any problems.
The next part is me, embellishing:
Mike: How do you guys sleep at night?
SA: On a bed made of $$$CASH$$$
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
I bet the axel has been bent since the truck was new. Hence the TSB for it. They "supposedly" checked mine at the dealership a couple of years ago(at my request) and said it was within spec.
