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This is a discussion thread titled "Oil Change Advice Please", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.


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Old 05-28-2005, 12:39 PM
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Default Oil Change Advice Please

My truck is approaching 15,000 and I want to make the switch to a synthetic oil. I am going to attempt to do my own oil and oil filter change ('03 iForce V8). I don't want to take my own oil to the dealership and have to wonder if they actually put it in my truck. The following are the steps I am going to take. Please set me straight on anything I have not thought of or anything that is not necessary.

1) Run the truck to heat and thin out the oil in the pan.
2) Remove skid plate.
3) Remove oil filler cap.
4) Remove drain plug and drain oil. (Is it lefty loosy?)
5) Remove filter. (What's a good filter wrench and is it lefty loosy?)
6) Replace plug.
7) Lube seal on new filter. (Using Fram 7,000 mile filter)
8) Install new filter, hand tight only.
9) Add engine oil. (Using Mobile 1 10-30)
10) Replace filler cap.
11) Check dipstick.

Any tricks or hints is appreciated.
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Old 05-28-2005, 01:54 PM
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1a) Park on a level surface.
4a) It's hot!
6a) Install a new gasket, looks like a washer, could be aluminum, copper, fiber, or nylon.
6b) My first choices are Toyota or Purolator Pure One. Next are Purolator, WIX, NAPA-Gold, Hastings, Baldwin. Amsoil is expensive and just about the same as the Hastings/Baldwin. Mobil 1 and other filters made by Champion Labs (STP, (U.S.) Bosch, K&N) have a new construction that I don't like.

Everything on our trucks I've found so far is the usual right hand threads to tighten.

Notice the hooks in the front of the skid plate that help hold it in place. You need to wiggle these free when you remove it. They help hold it up when you reinstall. I use a knee to hold the plate up while I'm putting in the first bolt in the back or removing the last one from the back of the plate. Put all the bolts in loose, then tighten them all. Otherwise, one or more won't line up. Be careful that the bolts go in by hand...if not, they're cross threaded and will tear out the threads.

Your Mobil 1 oil will be good for at least the full oil drain interval shown in your owner's manual. Don't throw away good oil early.


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Old 05-28-2005, 03:36 PM
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I just got back from Wally World and picked-up most everything I need. I see KLS recommends a new gasket. Edit...Went to dealer and received a new plug gasket (free).

Another concern I have is about the new filter I purchased. It is a FRAM Extended Guard XG3614. It is supposed to last 7,000 miles. My concern is this filter is 1 to 2 inches shorter than the Toyota filter I currently have on my truck. Does this matter or do I need to return this filter for another brand? The FRAM book states this filter will fit my truck.
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Old 05-28-2005, 03:59 PM
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12) Run vehicle and check for leaks.
13) Re-check oil level.
14) Take used oil to recycling center.
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Old 05-28-2005, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03SilverSky
I just got back from Wally World and picked-up most everything I need. I see KLS recommends a new gasket. Edit...Went to dealer and received a new plug gasket (free).

Another concern I have is about the new filter I purchased. It is a FRAM Extended Guard XG3614. It is supposed to last 7,000 miles. My concern is this filter is 1 to 2 inches shorter than the Toyota filter I currently have on my truck. Does this matter or do I need to return this filter for another brand? The FRAM book states this filter will fit my truck.
The Fram filter will fit the Tundra V8, and V6, and many other Toyota vechicles, and quite a few other brands of vechicles. So, it is not specific to your engine, like the Toyota filter. Alot of people have said they have problems with the Fram filters on their Tundras, such as a klunk noise at startup, from the oil running out of the filter. I don't know, as I have not used a Fram on my Tundra. I guess the shorter filter would decrease the oil capacity by a couple ounces. I run the Toyota filters wich I bought a case of 10 on ebay. So, I guess the fram filter is ok, but the Toyota filter is preferable.

Just wondering, how did you get a free gasket from your dealer? My dealer charged me $1.68 each for the stupid gasket.
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Old 05-28-2005, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gquenstedt
Just wondering, how did you get a free gasket from your dealer? My dealer charged me $1.68 each for the stupid gasket.
I called the dealer's parts department and asked if they had them and how much. I was told $0.90. I went down there and the guy had it right under the counter, handed it to me and said no charge.
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Old 05-28-2005, 11:37 PM
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All the photos with round cardboard end caps in this group of filters are Frams. Pennzoil filters are relabeled Frams.
http://groups.msn.com/OilFilterStudy...hoto&PhotoID=1


Ken
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S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
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