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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "JBA Header Questions", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I just received my titanium coated (titanium colored ceramic coating) JBA headers yesterday. I started taking a close look at them and found that when I lay a straight edge across the head mating surface they do not seem to be true.
So, I have a few questions:
1. What surface actually seals against the head of the engine; the flange of the header or the protruding surface of the weld that sits about 1/16" proud of the flange?
2. I bolted my two headers together flange to flange and just tightened slightly with a wrench I can still see day light between the weld surfaces, it is a pretty small gap however. Should I be worried about this amount of "un-true-ness"? I should try to find my feeler gauges to measure it. The more I look at them the smaller this gap seems to get, I really think the gasket will take care of it.
4. Did anyone else get different sized nuts in their kit from JBA? Threw me for a bit of a loop, I went to bolt the two together (see above) grabbed a wrench (I think 17mm) to fit the first nut tightened it a bit, went to the second one and it slipped, I think I used 5/8" on that one? I think I will not use any of the hardware from the kit. I will probably go buy some new hardware for the collector and use the factory studs with new nuts at the head.
5. What size is the torx socket for the header studs? I have read E8 and I have also read E10. I have read lots and lots of posts on JBA header installs on this forum and have copied the good ones to print for reference when I actually start to tackle this project.
I just received my titanium coated (titanium colored ceramic coating) JBA headers yesterday. I started taking a close look at them and found that when I lay a straight edge across the head mating surface they do not seem to be true.
So, I have a few questions:
1. What surface actually seals against the head of the engine; the flange of the header or the protruding surface of the weld that sits about 1/16" proud of the flange? I am fairley certain it is the protruding surface.
2. I bolted my two headers together flange to flange and just tightened slightly with a wrench I can still see day light between the weld surfaces, it is a pretty small gap however. Should I be worried about this amount of "un-true-ness"? I should try to find my feeler gauges to measure it. The more I look at them the smaller this gap seems to get, I really think the gasket will take care of it. I think you are right , the gasket wil take care of it.
4. Did anyone else get different sized nuts in their kit from JBA? Threw me for a bit of a loop, I went to bolt the two together (see above) grabbed a wrench (I think 17mm) to fit the first nut tightened it a bit, went to the second one and it slipped, I think I used 5/8" on that one? I think I will not use any of the hardware from the kit. I will probably go buy some new hardware for the collector and use the factory studs with new nuts at the head. This is an excellent idea.5. What size is the torx socket for the header studs? I have read E8 and I have also read E10. I have read lots and lots of posts on JBA header installs on this forum and have copied the good ones to print for reference when I actually start to tackle this project.They are E10.
JBA's are the best header. The fit the best, very few people have had problems. I have TRD's, if I didnt get such a good price on them, I would have bought JBA's.
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
23 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official ICON Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Ham Radio Operator = KE7WLF
1. What surface actually seals against the head of the engine; the flange of the header or the protruding surface of the weld that sits about 1/16" proud of the flange?
I think the flange crushes the gasket to form the seal. Buy Toyota gaskets they are metal and appear to be better quality than JBA gaskets. No leaks at all on my first header install.
2. I bolted my two headers together flange to flange and just tightened slightly with a wrench I can still see day light between the weld surfaces, it is a pretty small gap however. Should I be worried about this amount of "un-true-ness"? I should try to find my feeler gauges to measure it. The more I look at them the smaller this gap seems to get, I really think the gasket will take care of it.
Mine were the same way. The gaskets (Toyota) sealed just fine.
3. Is the use of High-Temperature RTV such as this recommended?
Don't need this. Again, use Toyota gaskets.
4. Did anyone else get different sized nuts in their kit from JBA?
The nuts for the collectors are different than the nuts for the manifold studs.
5. What size is the torx socket for the header studs? I have read E8 and I have also read E10.
E10. I did snug up all my studs before installing my headers. The passenger side seemed to need it. The drivers side did not.
I snapped one of the bolts on the collectors taking them off with a ratchet. Started to do another one and it seemed like it was going to break also. Switched to removing all my nuts with my impact gun and nothing else broke.
I did use PB blaster prior to removing my exhaust hardware.
4. Did anyone else get different sized nuts in their kit from JBA?
The nuts for the collectors are different than the nuts for the manifold studs.
There are only 6 nuts in the kit (my kit at least) for the bolts at the collector. JBA sends bolts to replace the studs at the head; which I will not be using.
The nuts that they sent me for the bolts at the collector are 2 different sizes; thread sizes are all the same but require different sizes of wrenches.
There are only 6 nuts in the kit (my kit at least) for the bolts at the collector. JBA sends bolts to replace the studs at the head; which I will not be using.
The nuts that they sent me for the bolts at the collector are 2 different sizes; thread sizes are all the same but require different sizes of wrenches.
Mine nuts were the same size for the collector. No big deal I guess.
BTW I had to grind my drivers side flange to clear the air conditioning bracket. Its just a little bit and I did it with a dremmel tool. This is because I left in the stock studs and they stick up a little bit, thus the grinding to get clearance. If I had used the JBA Bolts this would not have been a problem but I think the overall install would be more difficult trying to put in those bolts with the limited room. Installing headers was the most contorting thing I have ever done on an automobile, but worth the effort.
I took a closer look at my headers today and I am now convinced that the "untrue-ness" is not a big deal. If I tighten the nuts up at all the gap is very small, about 0.005" or so, I feel the gasket should easily take care of that.
Ken:
First; thanks very much for all your advice.
Second; Would you then recommend Toyota OEM gaskets at both the head and collector? I plan to call my dealer on Monday and make sure they have (or get them to order for me) the lock-nuts, and whatever gaskets you recommend. Most that have installed the JBAs seem to recommend the JBA gasket over the OEM. I do know that I am not going to want to ever have to change that gasket at the head, the collector one would probably be simple enough to replace if required.
Would you then recommend Toyota OEM gaskets at both the head and collector?
Yes I did use toyota gaskets on the collectors also. I think they are better design. I think they are about $7 each for those.
Ken
I agree with LTDKEN.
I have also installed many many sets of TRD and JBA/& stonemountain(poor design )(IMO) headers.
The toyota gaskets have lasted the longest, they are stainless and not a fiberous/metal mix.
I even reused a set of Toyota gaskets, customer didnt want to use the JBA gaskets, he preffered the used toyota ones over it (they only had 500 miles on them). To this day they havent leaked.
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
23 yrs with TOYOTA
MDT/Shop Foreman/FINDLAY TOYOTA
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Official Pro Comp Certified Installer & Dealer
Official ICON Certified Installer & Dealer
Certified Toyota Forklift Operator
Certified Locksmith
Ham Radio Operator = KE7WLF
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