While checking the fluids in my new 2002 v8 tundra (< 1K miles) two things caught my eye.
The first is that the manual and this website specifies API SJ for the motor oil grade. But my oil cap specifies API SL (next higher grade of oil). I believe you can put any API SL into an engine calling for API SJ, but the inverse is not true. What gives?
The ATF fluid looked a nice redish-pink color - like most ATFs look. According to the manual, the fluid to use for power steering systems in tundras is also ATF (dexron II/III). When I checked the power steering fluid I was surprised to find it was the clear amber color that 'real' power steering fluid looks like. Of course, it could still be an ATF, but I'm not sure why toyota would use two different types of dexron II/III ATF's in the same vehicle.
On my 2000 Tundra, API SJ is what is recommended in the owners manual and on the oil fill cap. That was the best oil available at that time. Since then, the API SL designation has come out which meets or exceeds SJ specifications. It is likely that the 2002 manuals haven't been updated with this classification change while the oil fill caps have been. SL, or SJ for that matter, should work just fine. They haven't changed the engines since the 2000 models, just oil classifications. Toyota just recommends that you put the best oil available in the truck, and SL meets or exceeds that requirement. You will probably be hard pressed to find any SJ oil on store shelves anymore, unless it is old stock. If you stocked up on SJ oil from last year or prior, I wouldn't have any concern with using it. I had an old 5 qt bottle of Mobil 1 Syn 5w30 API SJ that I recently put in my truck. I recently bought some more 5 qt bottles at Wal-Mart and it was API SL classification
Your power steering came with true power steering fluid in it which is just basically light weight mineral oil. It did not come from the factory with Dexron II/III ATF in it. The owners manual and cap recommend that any additions or replacements of the fluid be Dexron II or III transmission fluid, which again is basically just a lightweight mineral oil with red dye in it to distinguish it from engine oil, and is compatible with the power steering fluid. Synthetic Dexron II/III ATF is also compatible and a recommended replacement fluid .
API service category SL became the new standard July 1, 2001. As Alan said, it is completely backward compatable with all older service categories.
Alan, one thing...ATF is far more than just a mineral oil with dye. It probably has the most additives of any lubricant we see--viscosity index improvers, friction modifiers, anti-wear agents, anti-foam agents, extreme pressure agents, seal conditioners, etc.
Re: 2002 Engine Oil Grade and Power Steering Fluid
Quote:
Originally posted by mikeinaustin
The ATF fluid looked a nice redish-pink color - like most ATFs look. According to the manual, the fluid to use for power steering systems in tundras is also ATF (dexron II/III). When I checked the power steering fluid I was surprised to find it was the clear amber color that 'real' power steering fluid looks like. Of course, it could still be an ATF, but I'm not sure why toyota would use two different types of dexron II/III ATF's in the same vehicle.
I've even used synthetic power steering fluids that were crystal clear so you can't really tell from the color. You know though, I don't think I've ever used any transmission fluid that was any color other than red. Probably part of that reason though is that you can pretty easily diagnose a leak (on the floor) and many people don't usually don't check transmission fluid regularly so if there is a leak, you want to know it as soon as you can.
A good synthetic atf would suffice, but there are plenty of synthetic power steering fluids that are not red if you wanted to keep to "standard" colors. I'll probably put Amsoil power steering fluid in when I flush the power steering. I wonder what color that is? I'll find out soon enough. But ATF is fine.
Too, you can get brake fluids in different colors so that you can tell when you've flushed all the old fluid through (alternating colors on each flush).
As Ken mentioned, ATF is more than just mineral oil. The most significant difference though is its detergents and anti-foam. I used it as a pre oil change flush for a dirty engine when I do an oil change and I don't want to waste a quart of synthetic I use it to flush the last of the dirty oil out in the pan when the plug is out and all of the oil has "drained".
I'll then flush the rest of the ATF out by putting in about a half a quart of engine oil in while the plug is out. When the oil flowing out is as clear as the oil I just poured in, I'll put the plug back in.
Over time, I've found that between that and good filters (mobile 1, Amsoil) that oil stays as clean for about 6,000 miles as most people get at 3,000. Usually, when I drain it at 7,500 it's still clean enough to see through.
I just found out my Mercedes mechanic runs a german synthetic that's about $20 a quart and he changes it every 10,000 miles with an oil filter change [every other change]. He gets about 300,000 miles on his engines so I can disagree with his methods! Seems like a long time between filter changes.
All ATF is red. I think that it is an industry standard for identification and leak detection, but I can't find a reference.
One time several years ago I bought a couple of drums of CalTex 10W-30 engine oil (bought it in Singapore, as I remember) that was dyed red, and we used it in a hydraulic application that called for 10W-30. Lots of confusion. It's a good thing that almost all engine oils are just amber now. CalTex used to be jointly owned by Chevron and Texaco. Now, Chevron and Texaco are jointly owned by ChevronTexaco Corp.
I wouldn't put ATF in an engine in any circumstance short of two six-packs, and then I probably couldn't hit the filler tube. I'm not sure that drizzling a quart or so of an oil through an empty oil sump pan removes significant amounts of crud, and I really don't think that another half-quart of oil will rinse out all the ATF inside that engine.
Originally posted by KLS All ATF is red. I think that it is an industry standard for identification and leak detection, but I can't find a reference.
One time several years ago I bought a couple of drums of CalTex 10W-30 engine oil (bought it in Singapore, as I remember) that was dyed red, and we used it in a hydraulic application that called for 10W-30. Lots of confusion. It's a good thing that almost all engine oils are just amber now. CalTex used to be jointly owned by Chevron and Texaco. Now, Chevron and Texaco are jointly owned by ChevronTexaco Corp.
I wouldn't put ATF in an engine in any circumstance short of two six-packs, and then I probably couldn't hit the filler tube. I'm not sure that drizzling a quart or so of an oil through an empty oil sump pan removes significant amounts of crud, and I really don't think that another half-quart of oil will rinse out all the ATF inside that engine.
Ken
Actually, if you try using additional oil as a flush you'll see that a lot of dirty oil get flushed out when you pour additional fluid down the engine with the plug out. That particular process won't matter whether you use oil or tranny fluid. I don't know how I got started with the process, but it does make a difference. It's not going to dissolve hard crud in the pan unless you leave it there for a while and even then I don't think it's volatile enough.
There isn't enough time for the detergents to work so it doesn't matter if you use tranny or engine oil. I use tranny fluid because it's a whole lot cheaper than a quart of synthetic. Harmful? I've got over a half a million miles on engines in different vehicles doing this and the oldest one is 28 years old. Wow, time flies. Didn't realize the van was that old. It will be 30 in 2004.
Like I mentioned, I use tranny fluid as an engine flush when I change the oil on a really dirty engine (black oil). Pour a quart in a full engine and then let it run. It's not as thin as a "real flush" so I don't mind letting the engine run a little longer with it in and I don't worry about foaming due to overfilling either.
I've known people to run it as an oil additive - using it that way is a lot like "marvel mystery oil". The main reason you do it is the detergents. I'd just as soon use ATF in the engine as marvel mystery oil and I've done both over the years. I don't think I'd do that in a modern engine though. They run a lot hotter than the old engines.
Tranny fluid is almost a 10w-30 weight oil. The only thing I don't know is what the ash content would be when it burned on a really worn engine (rings) if left at high concentrations. But an engine that far gone isn't really going to matter anyway. And I've never run it any higher than 5 to one.
It makes a great flush and that's what I use it for. It's a high detergent oil but there are a lot of other additives too.
Has anyone used Royal Purple? I don't know if that synthetic engine oil is purple or amber. My synthetic differential and transfer case fluid is blue-green. The sulfur in it still smells as strong as any other differential fluid though.
Regarding the rather clear appearance of the OEM power steering fluid; it IS ATF, however, undyed... Not something one sees often and not available for general consumption. As mentioned previously, all ATF is indeed red. Dexron III (preferably Mobil 1 synthetic) is the recommended fluid.
2002 Engine Oil Grade and Power Steering Fluid
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