I'm about to do my first coolant change on my '04 Tundra. It's about to hit 30,000 miles and I didn't do one before this since I live in Southern CA and the weather isn't too extreme here even when towing.
My Question:
Are there any surprises waiting for me? In other words- are there any hidden "pressure relief valves" to loosen to help drain this system? Or sensors to look out for? Does anyone know if the factory recommends dropping the lower radiator hose to get everything out of the system? Anything else?
(Oh yea, I will use the pink stuff and distilled water)
I've seen some posts here where people have removed the brass plugs at the lower part of the engine block to drain. If you do, make sure your wrench fits perfectly. The guys claimed the plugs came out easily (not like my Blazer).
On my '01 V8, there are two banjo fittings, one on each side of the engine block. Attach a hose, place end of hose in waste container, loosen bolt and drain the coolant.
By draining each side of the engine block and the radiator, I got the entire coolant capacity per manual. Thus, using the same coolant, there was no need to flush, just fill it back up with new coolant/water and your done.
I have heard there is a removable vent plug somewhere too, but have not located it yet.
How often does your manual state to change? The red (long-life) is good for 2 years. The pink (super long-life) I thought was good for like 5 years. I was under the impression that the newer Toyotas were shipped with the super-long-life coolant.
On my '01 V8, there are two banjo fittings on each side of the engine block. Attach a hose, place end of hose in waste container, loosen bolt and drain the coolant.
I just crawled under my truck (I just did fit under the skidplate) and have the fittings that Tones described. They appear to take a metric socket. I know I saw someone who had described drain plugs around here, but maybe that was on an earlier model; I just don't know
The drain bolts take a metric wrench. They came loose easily enough. As I recall, there is plenty of room around them too. As long as you are using the appropriate sized wrench or socket, there should not be any problems, especially with a truck as new as yours. If you are worried about it, use a 6 point wrench or socket.
No sealant is required afterward, just tighten them back up.
Don't do it (the flush) unless you really have too much time on your hands. On a well-maintained engine (which yours would appear to be), there is absolutely no need. You would flush if it had a lot more miles and years on it to remove accumulated crud caused by coolant which had deteriorated. Consider that flushing is normally accomplished using tap water; this introduces minerals and impurities into your system that it doesn't need.
I recently changed coolant on my friend's 2002 V8 with about 80,000 miles (first change). The coolant came out nice and clean. I pre-mixed the new coolant with distilled water and refilled, after draining it as completely as possible using the block drain plugs as well as the radiator drain plug. So I would expect yours to be every bit as clean.
I would think that with today's technology, coolant quality, quality of metals, gaskets & materials and the extensive use of aluminum in engines and radiators that "coolant flush" is not needed unless you have seriously ugly coolant going through your system or a lot of miles and/or abuse.
I do not. My coolant is still pink and very clear. In fact, I had planned to have extra distilled water just as a "pour-through" before I seal everything up and add the juice. It would then be coolant first followed by the proper amount of distilled water until (after a few runs and stops/warm-up and cool-downs) it gets to the appropriate levels.
This is what I was trying to say in my earlier post. If you are running the pink coolant, I think you can run it a couple more years before you have to change. Might check your owner's manual.
As a former automotive repair industry mgr. Here are some things to consider. Even though the coolant looks "clean" can you tell the Ph? Is it acidic? As coolant ages and reacts with the dissimilar metals in the cooling/heating tract mineral deposits will form. These mineral deposits will then start to oxidize. The oxidation will start to deposit itself onto the heater and radiator cores thus significantly reducing heat transfer. Your motor won't cool as well and the heater won't throw as much heat. The mineral deposits will also wear soft materials in the heating/cooling tract ie the bore of rubber hoses and the backside of freezeplugs. Consider also the glycol is used for lubricating the water pump bearing.
I would suggest calling a repair shop that offers a cooling system flush that offers servicing the vehicle while running (thermostat open, heater on). As the new fluid is pushed into the cooling system. The old fluid is evacuated out. The machine is placed in between the radiator and thermostat housing. This is a much more complete exchange of fluid.
This is what I was trying to say in my earlier post. If you are running the pink coolant, I think you can run it a couple more years before you have to change. Might check your owner's manual.
Whether you perfrom this service is up to you,but the super long life coolant is not due to be replaced according to Toyota.
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All these long service intervals are BS.
Just a ploy so you buy brand X to save on maintenance costs over the ownership period.
The life of any mechanical device is extended and more reliable with preventive maintenance and clean fluids.
I cut all my intervals below the manufacturers minimum requirements.
I would rather spend a little and not have problems later.
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My 05 Tundra says to replace the coolant every 15,000 miles. You see that little "5" next to "check coolant"? In my Shceduled Maintance Guide that 5 directs you to page 37 where it defines "checking coolant" as flushing the system and putting in new coolant. Toyota Parts and Service
Does this really seem neccesary? Every 15,000 miles? What are you other 05' and 06' Tundra owners doing?
Coolant Change Question
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