You're going to get a lot of different suggestions. We have one certified lubrication engineer that posts here (georgeseq). His recommendation, and what he said he did in his Sequoia, was changes at 500, 1000, & 1500. He did this to clean all metal particles and dirt that was in the engine from the manufacturing process. Then he switched to Mobil 1 (which his company sells). He says that there's no breakin requirement; modern engines are manufactured ready to go on synthetic lubes.
His company also sells a neobium magnet drain plug that seems to work very well at catching iron and steel particles which are so small that they pass through the filter, but they're still very abrasive. http://www.avlube.com/automotive.htm I have one of the magnets, and it does catch fine iron particles.
Look in the oil filter threads. I like the Toyota 90915-20004 filter. My second choice would be a Purolator Pure One PL10241. I don't think Mobil 1 filters are worth the money. Toyota 90915-YZZB5 filters are good too, but I'm using the -20004 filters which cost about $7.
Much better sooner than later. The owner’s manual I think says 5000 but I wouldn't wait that long for the first one. After all what’s a $30 oil change compared to a $25000 vehicle?
I just did my first change yesterday, at 1200 miles. I felt guilty. The oil that came out looked like new.
I ran my 2000 Celica to 3500 miles before the first change, and immediately wen tto synthetic. i still have some of the best dyno numbers i've seen on a stock engine with that car, so who knows...
I'll probably do the next change at 3000-4000 and go to synthetic at that point, I'm not that concerned. My feeling is that you could run the cheapest K-Mart oil in a vehicle, with the cheapest K-Mart filters, and if you change them regularly (and the air filter) you will see 100,000 miles and more. I'm not likely in it for that long, so if it dies at 150,000 miles, it probably won't concern me.
Remember, the differences we are talking, 100,000 or 200,000 miles are huge, but if these engines are half as reliable as the old R motors, then it won't matter, they'll last forever...
Originally posted by KLS I like the Toyota 90915-20004 filter. Toyota 90915-YZZB5 filters are good too, but I'm using the -20004 filters which cost about $7.
Ken
What is the difference between these two filters? What reasons do you have for using these instead?
Toyota says 5,000 and the dealership service guys said the same thing. I've been going 5,000 miles between changes and the oil coming out each time looks almost as good as the oil going in. That, to me, means the Toyota filters are pretty damned good in my opinion. I have 36,000 miles on my truck right now and have been using nothing but dino oil in it. It's cheaper and does exactly what its supposed to do-lubricate the internal parts of the engine.
Originally posted by SR5Access What is the difference between these two filters? What reasons do you have for using these instead?
I've cut the Toyota 90915-YZZB5 filter open, and looked at the inside of the 90915-20004 filter. The -20004 has more filtration area and a bypass valve. The -YZZB5 does not have a bypass valve. Both have an interesting filter media--it appears to be a rigid resin-impregnated felt, not the usual pleated paper-like media. Both are made in Japan by Denso and have the Toyota label on them, contrary to what some parts counter guys tell us.
Click on my Photos button to see the internals of the -YZZB5.
According to Baldwin Filter's cross reference chart, the -20004 has a 20 psid setting on the bypass valve. Most aftermarket filters spec'd for the Tundra engine have an 8 psid bypass valve. Does it make a difference? I can't find out. I like Baldwin's chart, 'cuz it give filter internal details, Baldwin has about 4100 filters in their catalog (all types, oil, air, fuel, hydraulic, etc.) so they can match just about everything, and Baldwin makes top quality filters. By the way, Baldwin's match for the -20004 is their B1405 or their identical Hastings LF494.
first oil change(when to)
Linear Mode
