OK...Here's another tutorial (I've been bored lately).
We had one of our younger members ask about chaning the plugs in his truck. His mechanic wanted like $70 or something like that in labor. It's really a piece of cake and if you can walk and chew gum at the same time, you can do this.
I changed my standard plugs with 30K miles on them and put in NGK Iridium plugs. Advanced auto has them for $6.79 a piece. Seems like some of the original plugs weren't as tight as others. I've never had the plugs out. Truck does run better and the slight miss at idle that I had is now gone.
Check out the tutorial and see what you think. Hope it helps someone.
I'm afraid I don't need that tutorial.....but it is great!!!!!!
If I didn't already know how to change my sparks plugs this would be a great resource!
To anyone that needs this it will be very valuable
Great write-up!
__________________ David~2001 Toyota Tundra 4X4 TRD SR5~SSautochrome headers~Single 2.5" exhaust w/ Flowmaster 50 series delta flow muffler~K&N FIPK intake system w/True-flow filter~ASP underdrive pulley~Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar(removed)~Powertrax No-slip~Bilstein 5100 front and rear w/ Deaver 10 pack~Diff breather mod~255/85 BFG M/T on Wheelers Black Steelies Type B~Custom Rocksliders~Skid Row front skid plate~Custom Transfer case skid plate
OK...Here's another tutorial (I've been bored lately).
We had one of our younger members ask about chaning the plugs in his truck. His mechanic wanted like $70 or something like that in labor. It's really a piece of cake and if you can walk and chew gum at the same time, you can do this.
I changed my standard plugs with 30K miles on them and put in NGK Iridium plugs. Advanced auto has them for $6.79 a piece. Seems like some of the original plugs weren't as tight as others. I've never had the plugs out. Truck does run better and the slight miss at idle that I had is now gone.
Check out the tutorial and see what you think. Hope it helps someone.
That is a great tutorial and I am sure that it will be a great help to members.
I would suggest adding two small sections of info. 1-I have found it helpful to use some electrical tape to tape the socket to the extension because if the plug socket is in good condition the rubber insert will grip the plug so tight that the extension will pull out and leave the socket attached to the plug. 2--be very careful when adjusting the gap on Irridium plugs as they are very delicate--not like the regular plugs. Keep up the good work.
Next tutorial will be on a Hellwig install (which you won't need to read, either!).
You're welcome!
And that is true, I won't need your next one either, but man I sure could have used it! I know for a fact that I over tightened the end link bolts and squished the bushings to much. But it still works
Yesterday I was screwing around (ok, showing off) with my buddies and started to climb a small hill with my truck. My locker did an awesome job and I kept going up the hill even with 1 rear tire completely off the ground! Then I remembered my sway-bar and thought....oh sh!t!!!! I was very relieved to find out that I didn't break any end links with that move. I really need some quick disconnects
__________________ David~2001 Toyota Tundra 4X4 TRD SR5~SSautochrome headers~Single 2.5" exhaust w/ Flowmaster 50 series delta flow muffler~K&N FIPK intake system w/True-flow filter~ASP underdrive pulley~Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar(removed)~Powertrax No-slip~Bilstein 5100 front and rear w/ Deaver 10 pack~Diff breather mod~255/85 BFG M/T on Wheelers Black Steelies Type B~Custom Rocksliders~Skid Row front skid plate~Custom Transfer case skid plate
very good, even tho I'm well aware on how to change plugs, I'm changing my plugs and wanted to do it by the book, now i wont bother looking in the book. thanks
Darn...I did the fuel filter on my truck about 3 weeks ago. didn't think about taking pictures at the time.
Here are some real-world tips on that. You will have fuel dripping out when changing the filter, so plan accordingly. For example, have a catch can of some type at the ready. DON'T have your body or head right under the fuel filter. Bring some paper towels or rags under the truck with you.
1. The fuel filter is located on the inside, driver frame rail about at the end of the door.
2. You will see that the fuel filter is held in place by a big clamp. That clamp is bolted to the frame and snugs around the fuel filter usig a single 10mm bolt.
3. BEFORE you unclamp the filter, break the fuel lines loose. I *think* that the boss on the filter itself is 17mm and the fuel line is 14mm. In other words, don't just put a wrench on the fuel line and go to town....you will probably bend up the clamp. The fuel filter has a provision (or it should) for a large wrench so that you can keep the fuel filter from twisting while breaking the fuel lines loose.
4. Once the lines are broken loose, unclamp the filter.
5. You can now run the lines out of the filter. Both lines will drain fuel and there is a good bit of fuel in the filter itself. The filter will drain from the rear. Once disconnected, the rear line will keep dripping as it will siphon from the tank. Plan accordingly.
6. Orient the new filter properly. There should be an arrow on it or one of the ends will say "IN" or something like that. Slide it into the clamp, then thread the lines. Even though the fuel lines have rubber segments, they are super flexible. You will have to wrestle to get the lines started.
7. Thread in the lines as much as possible by hand to slow down the fuel leaking.
8. IF you removed the 10mm clamp bolt all the way, you'll probably need to get a pair of pliers to bring the clamp ends back together so you can thread the clamp bolt back in. This is especially true if you spread the clamp apart when getting the filter out or putting the new one in. I use a pair of Channel Locks to bring the clamp ends together and run the clamp bolt in with a nutdriver.
9. Make sure that the ridge in the filter is aligned with the notch in the clamp and tighten down the clamp bolt.
10. Tighten up the fuel lines making sure to use a big wrench on the fuel filter boss to keep the filter from twisting.
It's really simple, but can be a PITA...especially because you are on your back and there is fuel involved. Basic hand tools is all that is required. The Tundra filters are a snap compared to the 4-cyl. Tacoma filter, which is under the intake plenum and uses banjo fittings on the fuel lines. That's a total PITA.
Excellent work on both the spark plug and fuel filter tutorials!
I have a question though; what type of anti-sieze should be used on the plugs? I know that there are at least 2 types available the copper (which I believe is normally for high heat applications) or the silver? Does it matter?
I just purchased plugs for my V6 Tundra - The ones he sold me are NGK 3967 plugs gapped at .044 @ $5.99 each! I pulled one out of the box and it has two of the grounded electrodes 180* from each other. The electrodes point inward to the side of the center electrode.
Are these plugs worth the $$$
I can return them for different plugs if I do not install them. How would you gap those plugs?
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Ray Kane If you don't try, nothing happens
On the anti-sieze, I believe the copper is for head and exhaust manifold gaskets. The silver anti-sieze is what I've always used and seen used.
On the plugs, I checked the 2003 FSM. Looks like the double side electrode setup is standard. The gap is checked between the side electrode and the side of the center electrode.
NGK offers at least 5 different plugs for that motor. Prices range from $1.77 to $9.88 each as listed at Advance Auto Parts. The plug you have is the OE "Laser" style plug. They also make an Iridium plug and a couple of standard plugs. The price of $6 each sounds like a good deal! Are they worth the extra money? Don't know, they might last longer than standard plugs. You could try the cheaper plugs and see if you can tell a difference in throttle response, smoothness, or MPG.
Changed my plugs this morning. Removed Denso K20R-U and replaced with NGK BKR6EYA - V Power plugs.
Bought plugs from Advance Auto for $1.98 a piece. Used the Silver colored Anti-seize.
All the plugs squeaked coming out, but only one was real stubborn. After a few drops of liquid wrench down the tube, it came out fine with my 3/8 inch rachet.
Guys, I may be mistaken, but I think the plugs I took out were the original Denso Plugs from the factory. The truck has 116,000 miles on it!! The engine was still running fine even though the center electrode has burned down making the gap on every plug around .047.
I'm hoping the new plugs set at .031 will improve my MPG. I only got around 16.5 MPG on a 400 mile interstate trip with the old plugs last weekend.
When I bought the truck a few weeks ago with over 114,000 miles on it, I has a brief telephone conversation with the original owner. He said that all he had ever done to the engine was change the oil and filter every 4K.
Guys, I may be mistaken, but I think the plugs I took out were the original Denso Plugs from the factory. The truck has 116,000 miles on it!! The engine was still running fine even though the center electrode has burned down making the gap on every plug around .047.
I'm hoping the new plugs set at .031 will improve my MPG. I only got around 16.5 MPG on a 400 mile interstate trip with the old plugs last weekend.
When I bought the truck a few weeks ago with over 114,000 miles on it, I has a brief telephone conversation with the original owner. He said that all he had ever done to the engine was change the oil and filter every 4K.
Yeah 16.5 on a long highway trip is pretty crappy, so good job on changing the plugs The best I have ever seen in 20 MPG on a long trip to Florida and that's not to bad for a big truck and a V8!!
But you should really look into getting your timing belt done, at that high mileage it's better safe than sorry. Although it is good to hear that he changed the oil often
__________________ David~2001 Toyota Tundra 4X4 TRD SR5~SSautochrome headers~Single 2.5" exhaust w/ Flowmaster 50 series delta flow muffler~K&N FIPK intake system w/True-flow filter~ASP underdrive pulley~Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar(removed)~Powertrax No-slip~Bilstein 5100 front and rear w/ Deaver 10 pack~Diff breather mod~255/85 BFG M/T on Wheelers Black Steelies Type B~Custom Rocksliders~Skid Row front skid plate~Custom Transfer case skid plate
Spark Plug Replacement Tutorial
David~2001 Toyota Tundra 4X4 TRD SR5~SSautochrome headers~Single 2.5" exhaust w/ Flowmaster 50 series delta flow muffler~K&N FIPK intake system w/True-flow filter~ASP underdrive pulley~Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar(removed)~Powertrax No-slip~Bilstein 5100 front and rear w/ Deaver 10 pack~Diff breather mod~255/85 BFG M/T on Wheelers Black Steelies Type B~Custom Rocksliders~Skid Row front skid plate~Custom Transfer case skid plate
The best I have ever seen in 20 MPG on a long trip to Florida and that's not to bad for a big truck and a V8!!
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