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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "K&N FIPK2 are you kidding??", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
first off i have a 2001 limited trd w/ 28k miles on it.. i bought a K&N FIPK2, it took about 45 min to install.. i was impressed with how everything fit and the overall quality of the product (not to mention the advertised 14hp gain) once on i loved the sound and improved throttle response.. i drove it from Long Beach to Santa Barbara which is about 110 miles and i got there w/ the tank not even to the 3/4 mark (which for me is verrry good mileage) so i was excited w/ this as well.. on the way back the check engine light goes on.. so i reset the ECU the car starts bogging terribly at high rpm's or under full throttle.. i call South Bay Toyota and they tell me im going to need a new air flow sensor which will run me $300 which is $60 more than what i paid for the d@mn FIPK.. what should i do??
any advice suggestions past experiences will help me tremendously.. grrrrrrrrr
I have had my FIPK II for about a year now and LOVE it !!!
Did you touch the Air Flow Sensor filament while you were installing it? (Probably not if you already drove it 100 miles and then started having problems.) It is possible that some of the oil from your new filter has collected on the filament. Do a search for K&N in the forums, because I just read a posting where if the filament has some buildup, you can spray it with fuel injector cleaner to clear it up. But do the search first to make sure I read it right.
I was one of the 1st to install the FIPK; had mine for almost 2 years and no problems. Perception is: 1) better response 2) more full throttle use = lower MPG 3) definately more "noise".
At 28K your truck should still be under warranty; not sure how the careful installation of the FIPK would cause this failure. Sounds more like a random occurance/failure.
If you think they are giving a hassel about the FIPK reinstall the original filter box. If you don't have it PM me.
After the reset, your ECU will take a bit of time to relearn the air/fuel mixture for the higher air flow rate. For my rig it will take about 3-6 start/stop cycles before it gets back in line. I had the same prob initially, but my check light has not come back on. I have since had to do several battery disconnects (for various electrical mods), and I have the pleasure of going thru the ECU learning curve again.
Did the check light come back on after the reset?? If it continues to keep coming on, then there may be an issue.
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i've been reading prior posts about similar problems and have been tinkering with my truck and cleaning it all day! and im glad to say that i've fixed it.. the problem was as someone else had said, there was too much oil on my filter.. my dad oiled it while i attached all the vaccum hoses so i figured it'd be ok to put on.. so today i took it off and noticed oil everywhere! turned out that my dad put half of the recharge bottle on it!! so i let it seep out and dry off and i removed the MAF sensor (which was also covered in oil) dryed it off and reconnected everything.. i reseted the ECU for the billionth time, but this time the truck idled a lot better without shaking and smelling like it was running rich as hell.. after a couple of laps around the block i took it onto the 405 fwy and opened it up, boy it felt great on the freeway.. revved smooth as ever but this time with a noticeable pickup on the topend.. and a viscous sound as well.. now im happy with the $240 i spent on it.. and NO $$$ spent on repairs.. i'd be less thank pleased if i had to spend $300 on a new MAF sensor.. thanks you guys for all your help, past posts as well!!
i just filled up the tank so i'll let you know how my new mpg is compared to my old setup
i have a pic of my truck but i dont know how to post it.. if someone can tell me then i can show you guys taht as well..
Has anyone heard of another filter injection kit that doesnt have these problems? I have a 01 tundra with an FIPK on it and my light periodically comes on. The dealer replaced my MAF sensor under warranty and 2 days later the light came back on. After the computer reset(20 Starts) it went off. I would gladly trade this one for a TRD one if they had one.
PS-- ive never oiled it in the 4 months that ive had it.
I have never had a FIPK kit and from what I hear there are way to expensive for what you get. The "better" alternative is, use the drop in (K&N) and drill the front of the stock air box with 5/32" holes, about 20-25 will do. It's not sexy looking but it works and you can use the saved money on something else. Just a suggestion. EDH
Originally posted by LBTundra my dad oiled it while i attached all the vaccum hoses so i figured it'd be ok to put on.. so today i took it off and noticed oil everywhere! turned out that my dad put half of the recharge bottle on it!! so i let it seep out and dry off and i removed the MAF sensor (which was also covered in oil) dryed it off and reconnected everything..
All K&N Filters come preoiled. There is no need to oil them prior to install. There's been a lot of complaimts about the K&N systems and their performance. However, if you did your research you would see you were going to lose a little on the low end. However, the high end makes up for it. I love mine and wouldn't change it back to the OEM
Nothing neck snapping but definately noticable oomph kicks in around 2700.
No numbers, only my satisfied perception and the comments of a couple with stock trucks who have driven mine.
The questions been asked "would I make and changes knowing now what I didn't know then?" Proably would do the K&N drop in filter with air-box mod, use that coin saved for something else.
well i put a trd drop in at 993miles. didn't notice too much difference except the comfort of knowing i'd never have t obuy a paper filter again. i bought McarrerasTRD's old modified airbox at the jamboree and put it on in the parking lot (7916 miles). whoa what a difference! i like to call it my ghetto s/c! i'm at ~8400 miles now and haven't really noticed too much difference in mpg, but 85% of my driving is city streets and usually put no more than 20 miles on it a day.
initially i was thinking of going with fipk but after reading this post, i think i might stay with my set up.
__________________ Off Topic & California Forum Moderator 2006 Tundra Limited DC: UniChip | Ram Air Performance System | TrueFlow Sealed Air Intake | 24" Bassani X-Muffler with Quick Time Electric Cutouts | IS Rims w/ BFG RT 265/70R16 (for now) | SkidRow FSP | Hellwig Antisway Bar | Retrax Bed Cover | Bazooka VSE | front/rear parking sensors | power tailgate lock | debadged | tinted windows | 2x baby mod (car seat) 2005 Sienna: Purple Plazma Headlights | de-badged | 2x baby mod (car seat)
Discussion over the FIPK II is endless. One side says it looks cool, sounds cool and feels like your getting better throttle response (me). Others say it's crap for the money spent. It's seeming to be a matter of taste and/or having $240 laying around with nothing better to do with it. I think K&N is blowing smoke up your !!! when they say you will get more hp. Yeah, at red line rpm's. What good is that? Gas milage? When I put it on, my foot became a piece of lead, so I couldn't say much about that. The check engine light did come on twice during a 1,000 mi road trip after running the FIPK II for about 10,000 mi. Dealer said the computer detected a lean fuel mix. Light went off by itself. Has not come on in going on 3,000 mi.
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