Trying to Adjust Clutch in New 2005 Rav4

[grumpy in NH]

I have a 2005 5spd base RAV4 that I got as a new/leftover on President's Day for $18K. We Like the vehicle in general with the exception of the self-adjusting, non-adjustable(?), mal-adjusted clutch. My spousal unit has been having a bit of a problem shifting through the gears, so I took the beast out for a spin (the Rav that is ...) and, low-and-behold, the clutch takeup is only about 1/4in. off the carpeting. I had problems even getting it into 1st at a stop! For a supposed solution, I bled the clutch slave with no improvement. Then I bled it again, running a few oz of DOT3 through it - also with NO improvement. Before I waste my time taking it to the Dealer (who will most likely say, "That's normal operation"), Is anyone aware of a TSB or procedure to adjust the engagement point? I looked under the dash and every thing appeared to be properly adjusted (minor clearance to slave pushrod from pedal linkage) and I assume the pushrod on the bellhousing is non-adjustable - or IS it? Background note: I have worked as a Master Tech on foreign autos in the late 70's.
-grumpy in NH

[grumpy in NH]

I guess no Techs or manual tranny guys and gals read this column The dealer said it is performing as designed - although it doesnt work!

Legendary Toy Yoda Quality indeed.

F'ing Grumpy

[cookiemech]

What method did you use to bleed the lines? I have had good results using a Vacula (the one that uses compressed air to suck out the fluid), but I think that some problematic hydraulic systems may be better flushed with a pressure bleeder. Specifically, I know that some systems (I'm thinking of rear disk brakes on certain BMW motorcycles) will NEVER bleed out using the pump-and-bleed method; you must use a pressure bleeder or mechanically rearrange the system by removing the caliper so as to change the highest point of the system so that any air bubbles will move to that high point (which is of course not possible on your RAV4).

I don't own a RAV4 so don't have a manual to consult about pushrod clearances; sorry. Off the top of my head (based on other Toyotas), I think you're right about the only place where it's adjustable being at the pedal and not at the slave cylinder.

[grumpy in NH]

Cookiemech:
Thank's for replying! I used the 2-person pump and bleed method. I did it twice, using up about a 1/2 can of dot3. I close the bleeder well before the slave bottomed out, and bleed into a short hose submerged in a can of fresh dot3. The clutch master does not have a resevoir, it has a hose to the brake resevoir (dont like it). Luckily, the slave is handy on the front of the tranny housing from top side. This is frustrating though, not being able to adjust for basic proper operation of the car My next try will be to cut out the carpeting(!) under the pedal-stop bracket on the clutch pedal. This arrangement uses the floor to prohibit excessive travel - but maybe here I can pick up my 1/4" i need to fully disengage the pressure plate. Otherwise - ther synchros are quickly turing to dust ....

Grumpy in NH, U.S.A.

[geojim]

Originally Posted by grumpy in NH

Cookiemech:
Thank's for replying! I used the 2-person pump and bleed method. I did it twice, using up about a 1/2 can of dot3. I close the bleeder well before the slave bottomed out, and bleed into a short hose submerged in a can of fresh dot3. The clutch master does not have a resevoir, it has a hose to the brake resevoir (dont like it). Luckily, the slave is handy on the front of the tranny housing from top side. This is frustrating though, not being able to adjust for basic proper operation of the car My next try will be to cut out the carpeting(!) under the pedal-stop bracket on the clutch pedal. This arrangement uses the floor to prohibit excessive travel - but maybe here I can pick up my 1/4" i need to fully disengage the pressure plate. Otherwise - ther synchros are quickly turing to dust ....

Grumpy in NH, U.S.A.

Definitely not right for it to go so far before disengaging. It should start to disengage about 1/2 way off the floor. It does sound like air, but I had a similar problem on my T100. I too changed the fluid, and bleed thouroughly. This actually helped a little. But still not the answer. It was hard to pinpoint. It turned out to be a cracked bracket the pedal arm attaches too. I found that it would flex and allow the pedal to go about 1/2 way before any disengagement. Got a new (redesigned I may add) bracket from the dealer, and it shifted kike new again!

Another thing to consider, could the clutch be simply worn out? As they wear, I believe they catch lower and lower as the throwout bearing and diaphram change operating position.
EDIT: I should have read your first post more carefully. Probably not worn if it is a 2005. Still not right. Take it to a different dealer, maybe try a similar model if they have one.

Something to look into anyway.

Good luck