Check your local WalMart... (Mobil1)

[John97]

On Friday, I stopped at a WalMart near my office to pick up some Mobil1. I grabbed 3 of the 5-quart jugs which were marked $17.88 from a FULL endcap display. It turned out that they ended up being $13.75 at the register.

I went back yesterday to get more at that price and bought the last 4 jugs they had. Between when I was there Friday at 5PM and when I got back there yesterday at 2PM they sold about 30 jugs.

It's hard to beat Mobil1 for $2.75 per quart.

[arkie6]

I picked up four 5-quart jugs of Mobil 1 synthetic at the local Wal-Mart the other day for $14.00 each.

[Threxx]

Yeah I got some 5-quart jugs for 15.88 at Wal-mart about 6 months ago. They've been doing that deal for a while here in the Memphis area.

Now if they'd only start selling Mobil 1 filters, I'd be set!

Screw autozone and their 29.99 for 6 quarts price. Friggin' ripoff if I've ever seen one.

[SATundra]

Originally posted by Threxx
Screw autozone and their 29.99 for 6 quarts price. Friggin' ripoff if I've ever seen one.

Yep I paid $12 for a Mobil 1 filter there.

[Flagbag]

New to Tundra's, this site, and synthetic... so forgive me if I sound ignorant. My 2002 tundra has 2,500 miles and the original oil still in it. What do you think is best type and grade of oil to put in. When? Filter?
Thanks

[Stooge]

FlagBag:

Change the oil right away. Use the Toyota filter and regular (Dino) SL rated oil (5W30). Change again at 5K and then again at 7.5K. At 10K, switch to a good synthetic and change at 5K intervals. You engine will last longer than your truck!! With filter, it takes exactly 6.5 quarts at each change! Remove the skid gaurd. Its real easy with no mess to clean-up afterwards. With the synthetic oil change, I would consider a premiun filter such as Mobil 1, Hastings, PureOne or Amsoil.

[KLS]

Stooge,
Of the filters you mentioned, only the Toyota 90915-20004 and the Hastings LF494 have a 20 psid internal bypass valve. The others have an 8 psid bypass, except the Toyota 90915-YZZB5 does not have a bypass.

Does it make a difference? I don't know. Of the filters listed with the 8 psid bypass valve, I think the Purolator Pure One filter is the best for the money.

Ken

[woody1]

Haven't seen the 5 quart jugs locally yet. Wal-MArts price per quart is unbeatable at other locations (COSTCO, Military PX, etc). Watch out for their pricing; in 2 stores noticed by accident the 6 packs cost $3-$4 more than buying individual quarts.

[longwoodklon]

Ken,
You mention the Toyota 90915-YZZB5 doesn't have an internal bypass valve. I just changed my oil this weekend, and know this was the filter I used(I like to stock up when my dealer has them on sale). I am using Mobil1 already and know I should probably switch to a Mobil1 filter as well. What is this internal bypass valve for, and should I be asking my dealer for a 90915-20004 filter instead of the YZZB5? Thanks.
Mike

[KLS]

Mike,
The purpose of an internal bypass valve is to permit some of the oil to bypass the filter media if the oil is too thick & cold for it all to pass through the media without developing excessive pressure differential between the inlet side of the filter and the outlet side, or if the filter media is too dirty, or if the engine's oil pump is putting out to much oil flow.

Both Toyota filters have an unusual construction of the filtering media. It seems to be a resin impregnated felt instead of the usual pleated paper-type media. Evidently, the -YZZB5 filter is OK--Toyota sells a lot of them and stands behind them. I don't know how they handle the excessive pressure,or if they even allow excessive pressure differential to develop. I use the -20004 filter, and it might not do any better job than the -YZZB5....

I think the Mobil 1 filters are excellent but overpriced. If you don't want to use a Toyota filter, I like the Purolator Pure One filters a lot--they're top quality and moderate price.

Ken

[KLS]

Does anybody know if WalMart carries Mobil 1 0W-40? It's a slightly better oil than the xW-30...it meets the toughest European oil spec, but it's not as widely distributed as the 5w-30, etc.

By the way, I've been told that the Mobil 1 0w-30, 5W-30, and 10w-30 are all essentially the same oil and the different designations, "Newer Cars," "High Mileage Cars," etc., are all just marketing blather. In any case, these are all excellent oils.

Ken

[DevinSixtySeven]

autozone and checker both carry 0w40, 5w30 and 10w30...they generally do not have 0w30 because its rare that people require/want it.

so whats the difference between 0w40 and 0w30, dino and mobil one? the m1 im guessing is the same as the others, maybe a little more additive and better cold weather protection, retains a bit more viscosity at high temps and flows freely at low temps...but is it that much different?

im also guessing the difference in a dino oil would be noticeable between a 0w40 and a 5w30, etc.

yes, i did all those mods in my sig myself, but i dont know nuttin' about fluids ...im learning...thanks to all y'all on ts

-sean

[KLS]

Sean,

The difference between 0W-40 and 0W-30 is the high temperature viscosity. The viscosities are measured at 100*C, and the 40 is thicker than 30. "W" viscosities are measured at very low temperatures, -35*C for 0W, -30C for 5W, etc.

The Europeans have different oil specs than the Americans or the Japanese. Most oils meet all or some of these specs. Mobil 1 xW-30 oils meet the US and Japanese specs and the European ACEA A1 & A5 spec. Mobil 1 0W-40 is a different formulation and meets all U.S. and Japanese specs and the tougher European ACEA A3 spec and the Mercedes 229.3 spec.

See pages 5 & 6 of this link; the differences are mainly the very high temperature viscosity and the shearing (the ability of the oil to not lose viscosity due to mechanical action).
http://www.acea.be/ACEA/20020618Publ...lSequences.pdf

What does all this mean? Well, Mobil 1 0W-40 is the best oil I can buy for my turbo Volvo, and I'll use the 5W-30 in my Tundra. Note that all the Mobil 1 oils meet the European spec for extended drain intervals (ACEA A3 & A5), although they don't advertise it in the U. S.
https://dallnd6.dal.mobil.com/GIS/Mo...0?OpenDocument

The difference between dino oil and synthetic oil? Standard petroleum oils are made from "base stock" which is refined from crude oil. The base stocks come in different quality groups depending on the amount of refining and processing. Group I base stocks aren't used much anymore, because motor oils made from them don't meet the latest API Service Catagory SL specs. Group II and Group II+ base oils are needed to meet these specs. Group III base oils are very highly refined petroleum oils that have the legal right to be called "full synthetic" oils. These include Castrol Syntec, Amsoil XL-7500, Pennzoil Synthetic, etc. Group IV base oils are the real synthetic PAO (polyalphaolephen) oils, and Group V are other synthetics. Mobil 1, other Amsoil, Red Line, etc. are true synthetics. Synthetic lubes, including motor oil, gear oils, ATF, grease, etc., have a longer service life, better high temperature protection, higher film strength, longer over-heated life, better cold lubrication, higher viscosity index (less difference between cold viscosity and hot viscosity). So...synthetic lubes do a better job, cost more, and the only debate is whether they're worth the money.

Ken

[Dude Boy]

PAO = polyalphaolefin

[KLS]

Thanks, buddy.

Ken