Timing belt replacement FSM extract

[shall36]

Here's the FSM instructions on replacing the Timing Belt.

[Tones]

Great post. Thanks for sharing this.

[cupidstoy]

yep, thanks a ton. it's tucked safely away on the ol' hard drive for a rainy couple of days in the future when the odometer is gettin' close to 90k....

[jackbauer]

do you guys think this would be really close to being the same for a 4.7 in a 03 4runner??

[HotRod8]

I was reading through the procedure, I am wondering if you really need to take off all of what it says in the FSM. For example, radiator, camshaft timing pulleys, crankshaft timing pulley, etc. Can someone who has done this job comment? Also, they list a whole bunch of special tools (SSTs) what have others used in place of the pullers, holding tools for the cam pulley, crank pulley, etc.?
I am still on the fence as to whether to tackle this myself or get the dealer to do it. Mine is a ways off yet, but might have to start getting the tools into the budget.

[DJ]

I was reading through the procedure, I am wondering if you really need to take off all of what it says in the FSM. For example, radiator, camshaft timing pulleys, crankshaft timing pulley, etc. Can someone who has done this job comment? Also, they list a whole bunch of special tools (SSTs) what have others used in place of the pullers, holding tools for the cam pulley, crank pulley, etc.?
I am still on the fence as to whether to tackle this myself or get the dealer to do it. Mine is a ways off yet, but might have to start getting the tools into the budget.

Been there, done that.

I suggest you read this thread from start to finish:

Timing Belt

You need to do almost all of what it says, but you don't need to remove the camshaft sprockets. The crankshaft sprocket will slide off the crankshaft quite easily; just give it a pull. You should clean behind it and inspect the front main seal, assuming you don't intend to replace the seal.

I highly recommend getting two special tools. They are:

09213-70011 Crankshaft Pulley Holder
09330-00021 Companion Flange Holding Tool

They are made by SPX and can be purchased from ToolSource.com as

SKU 99091 $89.95
SKU 97504 $62.95

respectively. They make it easy and safe to remove, reinstall, and properly torque the bolt that holds the cranskshaft pulley on.

[KFlash]

Guys - I'm right there with you. I have 86,500 on mine and am hoping to get through till early spring. I'd love to tackle this job myself, but it's just the fear of the unknown - did I do this right, did I do that right? It is probably fairly easy and is one of those things you just have to get into and realize it's more cumbersome by the many steps rather than technical skill. My only battle is weighing what my time is worth now. The dealer could bang it out in a couple hours, where I'd probably be in it for two days and several trips back to the dealer for gaskets/parts - who knows!

[Charlie and Titan]

Depends on your level of mechanical skill. I'm 1/2 way through mine (stalled because parts people sent me the wrong crank seal).

If you have a good parts list and the FSM, plus a good collection of hand tools, you should be all set.

The special tooks would be dandy, but I haven't NEEDED any of them yet. The ones I'd like most are the crank holder and the adjustable pin wrench, but you can do without if you have scrap belts (which you will) and a long enough chain wrench.

You'll want a 3 arm gear puller (drive belt pulley) and a gasket scraper (to clean up the water pump to thermostat housing) - other than that, it is normal sockets and wrenches. Have a good selection and you're set.

Don't forget the two o-rings (one at the back of the water pump and one on the thermostat neck), a thermostat, a thermostat gasket, FIPG and toyota red coolant on your parts list.

Cam (x2) and crank seals (x1) are supposedly optional, but I don't see why you'd do a job like this and not replace them - seems penny wise, pound foolish.

If you can get it done at a dealer for $800, and the job they do includes waterpump, all new seals and o-rings, it is probably worth it. Depends upon what your opportunity cost on that time is.

My timing belt and water pump looked dandy, not really needed, but I don't want to get stranded on a long trip I'm taking, so doing it is cheap insurance. I bet a service station in the middle of nowhere wouldn't do as good a job and it would cost a lot more than the job I am doing. It is just good peace of mind to have it done.

I've got ~$500 in parts into mine (all genuine toyota from a sponsor).

I was hearing $1600 estimates, so the do-it-yourself was very attractive to me...

Charlie

[DJ]

It was not a difficult job. Every single step of it was easy, and the way to tackle it is the same way one eats an elephant; one bite at a time. The thread I referenced shows all the parts you'll need.

So, do it or don't do it, at your pleasure, but you need not be intimidated by it.

[diller1]

I just did mine last week. I have 125,000 miles and have put it off for a year. The belt looked I fine, the water pump had a small coolant leak into the timing cover so it was good to repair this. The job went well. I used a Chilton manual. It took about 10 hours over two days but I took my time and verified every step in detail. I did not change the cam or crank seals but had them on hand if needed. I had to get a chain wrench to hold the pulley to loosen the crank nut. I'd say do it yourself if you have the basic tools.

[tundraboy27909]

I have been looking for this information forever. Thanks.

[BaW]

THANk you guys for posting this !!!!!! if you where girls i would take you out to dinner then to a movie then i hope we can go home and have some fun!!!

[KFlash]

What can I use in place of the pin spanner wrench. I do see a spanner wrench set on ebay, but if not replacing the seals, will something else work to relieve the tension on the cam sprockets for removal/installation.

I am getting ready to head to the dealership for all the parts. Now all it needs to do is warm up a little.

[ctbale]

you can turn the cams by hand, but its hard. I used a large pair of pliars with rubber handles. put the rubber handles in the "spokes" of the cam sprokets, then use a large screw driver or pry bar to turn the pliars/sprokets, a little primitive, but works. but like I said, with leather gloves, you can turn the cams.

I just inspected seals, I would not replace unless leaking. same with tensioner

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

almost same moter as lexus, but tundra does not have distibuters, or coils that shows in these pictures. I used a new chiltons manual. VERY HELPFULL!

[DirtyErnie]

Hi everyone...new to this forum, but could use some help if you are kind enough to offer it.

I am in the process of changing the timing belt in my 2002 Tundra (V-6) and ran into a little problem. This is my first stab at this and want to make sure I do it right. I do not have much money to spare, so taking it to a true mechanic is not an option.

I am in the process of puting on the new timing belt. It has the same numbers on it as the old timing belt. The new timing belt has the marks for the cam shifts and the crank shaft.

I started by making sure the marks on the cam shaft pulleys were at "noon" as per the repair manual and the crankshaft gear marking was at noon BEFORE I removed the old timing belt.

I took the new timing belt and aligned the left and right cam position marks on the belt with the marks on the cam shaft pulleys (again, at noon position).

Next I wrapped the timing belt around the coolant pump pulley and routed the timing belt around the crankshaft pulley.

I installed the tensioner to the lower take-up pulley and was pleased with the tension and meshing of belt teeth to all pulleys.

I proceeded to rotate the crankshaft clockwise with a breaker bar. When I achieved TDC, the marks for the cam pulleys were exactly one tooth off. The position of the belt markings in relation to the "noon" location was presisely one tooth to the right of where the cam pulleys should be.

I think I did smoething wrong and would appreciate your input on the matter because I can simply not afford a mechanic or to be out of a vehicle for getting me back and forth to work.

I also replaced the water pump, thermostat, both take-up pulleys and the hydraulic tensioner as I do not want to do this again (or at least for another 6 years...lol). Yes, I verified the part numbers and actually measured the diameters of the new pulleys to make sure that I would not run into any complications. I also purchased new belts for the compressor, power steering and alternator. Got all parts for $250.00 at autopartsworld.com.

The original cause for me to change the timing belt (as well as the aforementioned items) is that the upper take-up pulley (factiry original) had failed (bearings were rolling around inside dust cover) which caused enough slack on the timing belt to stop driving the impeller on the water pump (overheating and a terrible noise under the hood).

The original timing belt is okay as well as all the timing belt sprockets and crankshaft gear. I really got lucky and consider myself fortunate that more damage was not realized.

Now if my luck would only stay good so I may receive your input as to how the hell I correct the alignment of the timing belt. Manual tells me to re-install the belt (they are serious, but it sounds like a no-brainer to me...JUST HOW DO I MAKE SURE I DO NOT REPEAT THE SAME MISTAKE?

Please help my pitiful soul get my truck back on the road so I can go to work and feed my family. Thank you and God bless. (crossing fingers)