7.5" Front Dif LockRight Locker

[BirdDog0]

Having already had the front dif casing (ring and workings) out, I installed the Powertrax (no longer Powertrax by the way, now kn own as Richmond Gears) Lockright Locker for the front end. Taking my time...OK...milking it, it took about 2 hours. I had to remove the ring itself to access the spider shaft. Anyway, things went in smoothly and the differential is ready for replacement back into the truck.

Is a locker in the front prudent with the stock 4WD engagement set-up? Powertrax seems to think so. In theory(and supposed practice) when the 4WD is disengaged, the front drive shaft doesn not receive input from the transfer case (true). As well, the ADD throws a coupling unit that allows for the passenger side of the front axle to disengage from the drive train/front differential, thus, both IFS axles are free to rotate independently of each other. The driver side axle is still connected to the front differential mechanism and all things are turning at a rate equal to the left front tire rotation..this includes the spider and side gears which still rotate in equal and opposite directions under a no torque condition. If this were a locker set-up (what I now have) instead of the open-dif, the whole differential unit would turn as one unit (no differentiation), but this is OK since the right side of the axle is supposed to be free from the dif...

Is everybody following this?

So, my predicament is such: Should I install the new locker differential back into the stock front end(no manual hubs) and test the theory?? Or do I wait for the hubs to come in and be sure that the front end will not engage until I select it to do so?

On another note, the rear No-slip will try for an install this weekend. I'll keep everything posted for continuity's sake later on. There doesn't seem to be much positive/negative info on the P-trax systems on the site...

BD0

[tck4x4]

I am very inerested in manual hubs for my tundra. Where can you get them? Warn?
I also have an ADD 4-Runner (1991) and did the manual hub conversion on it, I get about 2 mile/gal better mileage and it seems to handle better. Its no sports car, but its easier to manuver in the parking lot.

[akauth]

You'll have to tell us how it comes out. Too, how noisy it is.

Sounds like a cool idea.

alan

Originally posted by BirdDog0
Having already had the front dif casing (ring and workings) out, I installed the Powertrax (no longer Powertrax by the way, now kn own as Richmond Gears) Lockright Locker for the front end. Taking my time...OK...milking it, it took about 2 hours. I had to remove the ring itself to access the spider shaft. Anyway, things went in smoothly and the differential is ready for replacement back into the truck.

Is a locker in the front prudent with the stock 4WD engagement set-up? Powertrax seems to think so. In theory(and supposed practice) when the 4WD is disengaged, the front drive shaft doesn not receive input from the transfer case (true). As well, the ADD throws a coupling unit that allows for the passenger side of the front axle to disengage from the drive train/front differential, thus, both IFS axles are free to rotate independently of each other. The driver side axle is still connected to the front differential mechanism and all things are turning at a rate equal to the left front tire rotation..this includes the spider and side gears which still rotate in equal and opposite directions under a no torque condition. If this were a locker set-up (what I now have) instead of the open-dif, the whole differential unit would turn as one unit (no differentiation), but this is OK since the right side of the axle is supposed to be free from the dif...

Is everybody following this?

So, my predicament is such: Should I install the new locker differential back into the stock front end(no manual hubs) and test the theory?? Or do I wait for the hubs to come in and be sure that the front end will not engage until I select it to do so?

On another note, the rear No-slip will try for an install this weekend. I'll keep everything posted for continuity's sake later on. There doesn't seem to be much positive/negative info on the P-trax systems on the site...

BD0

[BirdDog0]

Originally posted by tck4x4
I am very inerested in manual hubs for my tundra. Where can you get them? Warn?
I also have an ADD 4-Runner (1991) and did the manual hub conversion on it, I get about 2 mile/gal better mileage and it seems to handle better. Its no sports car, but its easier to manuver in the parking lot.

SO far, the only place I know of that does it is a shop in Colorado.
Check out offroadsolutions.com
Their kits are custom made and it's been taking them a while to get them prepared (going on three weeks now), but it icludes everything you could need for the conversion, except a new dif and CV joints. It's about $929 for the kit, with $15 S/H. They have adecent pic of what the kit includes.

Mike is the owner and he's been great. Pleasant and very knowledgeable.....

[BirdDog0]

Part two of three completed today! Rear-end Powertrax No-Slip installed today! Started at 0745 this morning. Took until 1000 to get the rear end apart. This was not difficult to do, just time consuming, and as I've torn apart a rear end wholly before, I wanted to be sure I did it right. I put the rear end/axle up on jack stands to get both tires to clear. Drain oil. Disconnect parking brake cables (just two cotter pins). Remove ABS sensor(if so equipped) by removing the oen bolt holding it down. Seperate the sensor plug from the unit, then pry the unit up from the axle. Remove the four bolts holding the rear wheel assembly on. Disconnect the brake line and let it drain into a pan. Once disconnected, pull the axle out about 6 inches. BE CAREFUL! These things come flying out easily!

Got axles hanging out a bit, disconnect rear drive shaft at differential. Hang this out of the way with some wire/bunges/rope. Undo the nuts holding the third member on. Slide that puppy off!

Once out, you have to remove the carrier bearing and locks(very easy, but you need a vise). Pull dif out and remove the ring (again, go to the vise) Drill out the "odd" end of the securing pin so it comes out easily and tap out the securing pin. Slide out spider axle and remove the gearings.

Install Powertrax unit according to instructions (very quick and straight forward) Reinstall all the goodies and test 'er out.

Reassembly was about 1 hour after I got the Powertrax in. I was done around 3pm, but still had to service the dif and bleed the brake lines. So far, the unit tested out fine on the jack stands(ops normal) but I have to wait until tomorroe to finish the bleeding job.
All in all, things went smooth and I'm looking forward to giving a test drive soon.

-BD0

[BirdDog0]

http://photos.msn.com/viewing/albumtheme.aspx

These were my spider gears in the front end....

BD0