I Have a 2000 Tundra and change the oil myself. I have usually changed it with the front end facing up the slight incline in my garage, WITHOUT removing the skid plate. It 's a little more messy than I like, but with the slope all th oil seems to come out oK.
Well Last change I backed into my garage so the slope was the opposite. Yup, when I was done I pulled out and put oil from the skid plate aaaaaaaaaaaaalll over my paved driveway! Ouch.
Has any body got a better solution. Is it easier to remove the the skid plate, or can I get a small pail to cach the oil somehow !
Boss, just remove it! I think it's 4 or 5 screws (14mm?)...it's definitely worth the time to remove it because it saves a clean-up later!
Besides, how do you get to the oil filter w/o removing the skidplate, anyways?
I've heard of some TS'ers using a plastic bag to catch the filter and oil that spills, so maybe that could help if you didn't want to remove the plate.
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BFG A/T 285.75.16 / MT Classic II's / Fabtech Coilovers / TRD Add-a-Leafs / SkidRow skidplate / Snug Lid / Grey Line-X / Color-keyed front & rear bumpers / Hella Supertones / Husky floor liners / Amsoil bumper-to-bumper / K&N drop-in / Super Magnet oil drainplug / TRD radiator cap / 55w Aux reverse lights / DRL's disabled / Fog light mod / Map light mod / Power outlet mod / Back seat angle mod / Visor labels removed / TS sticker!
I've always removed the skidplate when doing oil changes. It'll take a little longer the first time around because your getting a routine down on how to take out the skidplate (what socket you need, how many bolts need to be removed, etc.), but oil changes after that are smooth sailing. So far no oil spills to clean up after too.
__________________ 2001 Limited Tundra 2WD Ivan Stewart Mods: TRD dual exhaust, TRD headers, Donahoe Racing coilovers, Bilstein 5100 rear shocks, Total Chaos Uniball upper A-arms, Hellwig swaybar, BFG A/T 285's, Line-X, TRD air filter, Jet Accu Speed calibrator, PPD billet TB and fuse cover, Sylvania Silverstar head/fog lights, clear corners,
I was actually thinking about doing a little modification to the current mud guard that would operate similar to the current chevy trucks. Their skid plates are made of a carbon fiber/metal mix and right where the oil filter is located there is a little door/hatch that swings down to allow jst enough room to get in their and get the job done. A novel idea and one that would be easily accomplished on the Tundra. I can picture a jig saw to cut out the door, your basic door hinge, and a spring loaded, or screw type lock to secure the door while driving.
On the other hand, you have different fingers....
Then again, it only takes an extra 6-7 minutes(if that) to remove the skid plate as is...
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2005 Dodge Magnum Special Edition SXT
1991 Honda Nighthawk 750
1987 4Runner
It depends on my time and mood.
I have found a cookie dough container is small diameter to fit through and catch the filter drippings.But Sunday I dropped it when removing and made a mess.I have been succesfull before.I have also removed the skid plate.
There are after market skid plates that give you access.And I remember a post of someone modifing the stock one.
RichR
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Oil Change... remove the left rear bolt on the skid plate. Crease two pages of a newspaper and slip it in on top of the skid plate and under filter. Remove filter with strap wrench from above. Catch oil in a pan as it drains off the paper. If done properly you have only an oily paper to fold and disgard.
Ditto to what Andy and Aquevarra said.
I just did my first oil change and after taking off the first 2 or 3 bolts of the skid plate and those plastic mudguards I said "screw this what a pain in the A*S*S" at first - but then I thought about the potential for an OIL mess and I finished taking it off. Now I'm glad I took off the skid plate - No mess, and now that I've done it once and know the tools I'll need it really will be super easy the second time and I can see a whole new world I didnt know existed when you take the skid plate off. Easy access to all kinds of things.
Originally posted by puppychop3 Ditto to what Andy and Aquevarra said.
I just did my first oil change and after taking off the first 2 or 3 bolts of the skid plate and those plastic mudguards I said "screw this what a pain in the A*$*$" at first - but then I thought about the potential for an OIL mess and I finished taking it off. Now I'm glad I took off the skid plate - No mess, and now that I've done it once and know the tools I'll need it really will be super easy the second time and I can see a whole new world I didnt know existed when you take the skid plate off. Easy access to all kinds of things.
Yep you got it.
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2001 Limited, V8, 2wd, TRD, Metallic Silver Sky MODS:
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SUSPENSION: front - red/blu 4x4 HD Bilsteins shocks & HD TRD 4x4 coils providing 1.75" lift, rear - TRD add-a-leafs, Hellwig swaybar, yell/blu 4x4 Bilsteins INTERIOR: CB-Ham/Scanner/150W linear amp in custom console, 10 disc CD player, Donnelly comp/temp mirror, Toyota All Weather floormats, tinted windows, radar detector, backseat angle mod, EXTERIOR: Grizzly SS brushguard, Better Built alum toolbox w/lights, Weatherflector Ventvisors, chrome step tubes, UTR bedliner, hitch, SteelHorse Bull Rings, Mobil 1 oils, 2 TS stickers, 2 TS license frames, 2 www.TundraSolutions.com stickers, ELECTRICAL: 55W undercarriage entry lights, extra set 55W reverse lights, 55W underhood lights, DEI alarm, 12V Acc plug/engine compartment, 400watt power inverter, foglight/cargolight/acc plug/maplight mod
When changing oil filter i place a few rags under the filter laying on the top of skid plate and carefully remove the filter five minutes unless you drop it.
I get to the filter from above, my arms are just long enough to get to it with my socket based filter cap removal tool. I would recommend the above remove method to all of you except for the spill problem.
If you're really interested in getting a new plate, here is the link. They are called Skid Row skidplates, and not only are they supposed to be great, but they also give you access to the oil filter from the side. The website has great photos.
I think I will buy myself one for Christmas. My current skidplate is so mangled that it barely fits the screw holes anymore. I have to pry it to get it back in place!
Just another idea to throw out there.
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BFG A/T 285.75.16 / MT Classic II's / Fabtech Coilovers / TRD Add-a-Leafs / SkidRow skidplate / Snug Lid / Grey Line-X / Color-keyed front & rear bumpers / Hella Supertones / Husky floor liners / Amsoil bumper-to-bumper / K&N drop-in / Super Magnet oil drainplug / TRD radiator cap / 55w Aux reverse lights / DRL's disabled / Fog light mod / Map light mod / Power outlet mod / Back seat angle mod / Visor labels removed / TS sticker!
see "oil changing for a newbie"...i don't remember where i put it, but it's around...a bunch of people posted some great information in response to my initial floundering.
i have a skid row plate, it makes oil changes soooo much easier, much cleaner, quicker, and it's a really beefy skid plate, too (mine's been "tested"). the guys where i was getting my oil changed loved it, they said it only took a few minutes to change the oil with the new plate on. since then i do it myself because it's so easy.
i used part of a 2-liter soda bottle around the oil filter when i took it off...loosened it with the filter wrench, then spun it off inside the soda bottle. no mess or drips anywhere, just a few drips coming from the engine where the filter mates up.