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Engine & DrivetrainDiscussions about the engine and drivetrain of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Exhaust leak? Ticking? What is it...", within the Engine & Drivetrain forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
You bet a gasket or a couple loose studs could of caused the ticking. I had a '67 mustang with headers when I was a kid and I was always having problems with exhaust leaks due to bad gaskets until I fixed the header design - don't buy cheap headers!
I have a 2001 Sequoia. I have the same ticking sound as described on the previous posts. It is bad for about 3-4 minutes when the engine is cold and then goes away. If you turn off the engine, it will come back after 5-10 minutes of sitting (then go away again). I took it to an independant shop that specializes in Toyota an Lexus vehicles. They quoteed me a price of about $800 to change out the manifold ($525 labor and $275 for the manifold). They said the shop time on this was 7 hours.
I also called the local Toyota dealership and he said a rough estimate was around $3,000. I politely told him "No Thank you".
If anyone has had their manifold replaced at a dealer or an independant shop, can you tell me what a fair price would be.
If you do a search under handling and suspension, I continued the conversation. As it turns out, other have had the same issue and found it to be a torn dust seal around the steering shaft. All that noise coming through a small hole.
__________________ 2002 Tundra AC 4x4 Off Road Package - Revtek coil lift with Wheeler's 1.5" AAL. Superlift Truspeed Recalibration unit. Flomaster dual exhaust. Husky floor liners. Hellwig anti sway bar. Xmas Gift 2006 - 3" Perf. Accessories body lift and Gap guards - Installed 1/6/07! New tires in March 2007 - BFG AT 30570r16 on MT Classic IIs. Total Chaos steering bushing kit. Front swaybar bushing kit from Wheelers Offroad. Stubbie 21" antenna. Underdrive pulley installed with NAPA belt. Timing chain replacement and brake job are next!
If you do a search under handling and suspension, I continued the conversation. As it turns out, other have had the same issue and found it to be a torn dust seal around the steering shaft. All that noise coming through a small hole.
Yes, but likely it's the more common cracked manifold, since it only does it for a short time after starting up. Is the torn boot from "off roading" or can any vehicle have that? The only ones I've seen are on older rigs where age and heat cause the rubber to deteriorate.
__________________ ADDING POWER HAS NEVER BEEN SO FAST!
Mine probably was helped alone by the body lift that changed the angle of the steering shaft slightly. A quick look from under the truck would rule this out as an issue. Mine didn't go away after start up, it was more pronounced on acceleration. Just another thing to keep in mind.
__________________ 2002 Tundra AC 4x4 Off Road Package - Revtek coil lift with Wheeler's 1.5" AAL. Superlift Truspeed Recalibration unit. Flomaster dual exhaust. Husky floor liners. Hellwig anti sway bar. Xmas Gift 2006 - 3" Perf. Accessories body lift and Gap guards - Installed 1/6/07! New tires in March 2007 - BFG AT 30570r16 on MT Classic IIs. Total Chaos steering bushing kit. Front swaybar bushing kit from Wheelers Offroad. Stubbie 21" antenna. Underdrive pulley installed with NAPA belt. Timing chain replacement and brake job are next!
Wow, that is quite remarkable! I wonder what mine will look like when I get them off the truck.
Maybe someone can enlighten me on why this happens. The response is usually "they are made too thin" but is it more of a welding problem? Or are the exhaust gases hotter on this engine than Toyota anticipated? Climate related? Owner abuse?
@john2001, can you also post a pix of the manifold gaskets, maybe they can also be a cause of the exhaust leaks, just want to see the physical condition when you have this kind of leak, thanks
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1981 Toyota Celica GT 467000 mi on original engine + drivetrain
1996 Lexus LS 400 175000 mi and going strong
2002 Toyota Sequoia SR5 4WD 53000 mi too young
Ya'll have came up with just about everything but one! And something that htttrh hasn't mentioned was the last time he changed the plug and wires. Now I know this is a Toyota forum and I drive them myself now, but years ago I had a Ford F-150 that developed a "ticking" noise. I thought the worst at first and was ready to dump a few hundred bucks into manifolds, gaskets and everything else imaginable. Then an "old" timer asked me, "what was the last time ya changed the plugs and wires?" Long story short, I changed them and I didn't have the problem any longer. Turned out I had a plug that had a small hairline crack and a wire that was old and the spark was jumping. Hope this helps, but if it don't it's going to cost ya a lot more!
The manifold cracked at the edge where it is formed. There isn't a weld at that point. I agree with just too thin. The gasket looked good. The head was clean and showed no signs of leakage between it and the gasket.
__________________ 2006 Tundra 4x4 V8 SR5 AC ScanGauge II
@JOHN2001 , thanks a lot for the pix, was asking because ive got a new JBA 2010S headers right now just debating on which gasket to use, the JBA or OEM or aftermarket,
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1981 Toyota Celica GT 467000 mi on original engine + drivetrain
1996 Lexus LS 400 175000 mi and going strong
2002 Toyota Sequoia SR5 4WD 53000 mi too young
I recently got the ticking sound on the drivers side, and yesterday fixed it with the replacement of the left-side exhaust maniford which was cracked. My 2000 Tundra V-8 is just at 120,000 miles.
Good to know HunterJim. I've got almost the same truck, with the ticking on the same side, too...
@bikolini: I just bought the 2010S headers from SOSperf.com (he also sells on ebay). They came with the Toyota (metal) gaskets in the box and generic cardboard gaskets for the collectors. Perhaps all of these headers come with factory gaskets?
Mine came with flange gaskets stamped out of thick gasket material. I had a set of new factory metal gaskets, but used the JBA gaskets because they matched the header flanges better. Most guys use the metal ones as they don't require any retorquing. If you use the JBA gaskets you have to tighten the bolts several times until the gaskets take a permanent set. If you don't, you run the risk of them leaking. The collector flanges should have donut type gaskets. I think the ones that came with mine are exactly the same as those stocked at NAPA stores. My left manifold cracked at around 25K miles and it was 4 or 5 years ago that I replaced them with the headers.
__________________ ADDING POWER HAS NEVER BEEN SO FAST!
Thought I'd pipe in and offer a few sound files from my 2000 Tundra 4.7L which I believe has a cracked exhaust manifold. I recorded these using a microphone placed in the engine bay. Is this what you guys are hearing?
WOW...thats EXACTLY what mine sounds like. I can really hear it if Im driving next to a wall to bounce the sound off of.
Have you replaced your headers or were you able to see any cracks?
Thanks for the Sound files.