Looking for a solution to the "oil all over the skid plate" deal. I do all my own maintenance and am trying to dream up a splash pan.... so when you pull the filter off, it doesn't bomb the skid plate and ultimately drip everywhere until its all gone. Rigged up the bottom of a milk jug, but that's pretty cheesy. Don't care to take off the shrouding all the time.
JUST A THOUGHT FROM OUR OIL CHANGE GUYS HERE
USE A FUNNEL WITH A LARGE ENOUGH DOWN SPOUT TO ALLOW
DRAINAGE..
WE USE THE TECHNIQUE AND IT WORKS...YOU HAVE TO USE A SHALLOW NECKED FUNNEL AND RUN THE DOWN SPOUT OUT OF ONE OF THE HOLES IN THE PLATE, HOPE YOU CAN GET IT TO WORK
I like the idea (haven't done it yet myself) of drilling about an 1-1/2" hole into the skid plate with a hole saw in just the right spot to allow the oil to drain all the way through into a pan.
Someone mentioned awhile back in one of these threads that (1) From the top, lay some old cardboard on the skidplate (2) Loosen filter with a strapwrench and (3) wrap a 1 gallon size ziplock bag around it and remove. Voila! Just a few drops to hit the cardboard.
...Fram Sure Drain gizmo. Went on easy, promises to make oil drainage mess free as the oil drain activator is connected to a hose that will slip right through the diamond cut-out on the after-market Skid Row skid plate.
As for the filter, I use a 13 gal kitchen trash bag and spread it out under the filter.
Certainly not the best set-up, but it makes it easier/neater/no chance of bolt/nut strippage.
I like the idea of using a magentic oil sump drain plug. It catches iron & steel wear particles that are too fine to be trapped in the filter, but do cause significant engine wear. My magnet plug always has a layer of gray iron particles on it when I pull it. The type of magnet that's needed is called neobium--it has very high magnetism, and it doesn't lose the magnetic strength when it's hot.
I've had the AVLube plug in my Tundra since the 1st oil change. After the initial run where it picked up 2 very small pieces, I've never seen evidence of any other metal on it during subsequent changes. That's not to say there won't be, but I'm pretty confident in the Mobil1 oil and filter I'm running in it.
Certainly the filtering and oil and low RPMs will allow this engine to run much cleaner, cooler, smoother, etc.
Had I not brought the oil and filtering systems into the 21st century, I'd most likely still be running the AVLube magnet in the oil pan.
I guess I'm just replacing what I consider to be oil filtering overkill with convenience
Perhaps if I come across one of the magnetic oil filter bands, I'll pick one up...
CJ
Quote:
Originally posted by KLS I like the idea of using a magentic oil sump drain plug. It catches iron & steel wear particles that are too fine to be trapped in the filter, but do cause significant engine wear. My magnet plug always has a layer of gray iron particles on it when I pull it. The type of magnet that's needed is called neobium--it has very high magnetism, and it doesn't lose the magnetic strength when it's hot.
CJ,
I've never seen any bits of metal on my drain plug magnet, just the magnet has a gray sludge on it while the rest of the plug has the usual brown stuff. The fine gray or black residue is iron particles.
AV lube also sent me a wrong magnetic engine drain plug, but it happends that it fits my 98 Honda Accord. Is there any body using the plug for longer perioud of time.
changing the oil
I just installed the...
Linear Mode
