First...thanks...I have been on this site since 2003(through two names due to lost logins). I am replying in this post because it is the closest 'symptom' to what I am experiencing.
BASICS: I have a 2000 Tundra Limited V8 2wd. I currently have 185K and will be doing the next timing belt at 190K(last done at 100K). '
Symptoms: When accelerating onto the freeway or moving through traffic OCCASIONALLY (1 of 10 times) and never replicated in a particular way....the engine will lose all power. Let me make it clear, the engine never dies. Today, I had more space ahead of me, so when this happened(4500 rpm) I kept my foot in it. The engine simply returns/stays at idle, even with the pedal down. Release the pedal and gently ease into the throttle, any everything seems to be fine. NEVER have any lights or warnings come on throughout these ordeals.
THOUGHTS: (1) The engine didn't race with the foot in it, so I am doubtful of any transmission issues(although I am still on the original which had issues of being problematic in the 2000 model)
(2) The theory some have posted of the fuel filter could definitely be the culprit. I have never replaced the darn thing--never had a need.
(3) Looked in my Haynes manual...where is this gas tank breather you all are referring to?
(4) Throttle body sensor...at a loss here.
I have had this truck for 13 years...since new. It's cost a pretty penny in the last 2 years(rear axel seals, steering rack plus the third brake job and new tires...of course the last two are just maintenance issues. I would like to hear some ideas from you all on this issue. Price points would be great too.
Not to butt in, but I am amazed at the thought of hitting 4500rpm's as being "normal." I have had my tundra for 13years and I don't know if I have ever hit 4500rpms.
Uphill grades means CC off, OD off and foot on the gas pedal.
Sounds like a fuel issue, weak pump, clogging filter, dirty sock at the pump. What is the rev limiter set at with the toyota V-8?
2006 Tundra Limited 4door 4X4 White/Tan leather int.
1984 Buick Grand National 11.17 @127.78 1/4 mile blast
Original owner, no it's not stock... but is a V-6 22.6 mpg highway/ 13 mpg city.
2005 Tundra DC Limited 4wd - Phantom Gray Pearl
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Tundra Fuel Economy Blog
261,043 miles on the odometer [come see me when you get that on your ford]
Highwaylizard 2004 Tundra Double Cab Limited Edition 4.7 liter V8, four speed automatic, four wheel drive, testing platform for fuel economy, self designed cold air intake using ram air principle, Scangauge, Fitch Fuel Catalyst, Aero Turbine, "Foolie Exhaust" from Aero Turbine back, True Flow Intake with Amsoil drop-in dry filter, Mobile 1 in the engine, NAPA oil filter, NAPA in the differentials. 3:91 gears in the front (Thanks Cajuntundra!) and rear (Thanks Nytrousboy!) differentials, Michelin LTX M/S2 tires
I guess I am amazed at those who are surprized that every once in a while....(not very often or frequently)...one must 'giver all she's got' to merge into traffic or make a pass. I have never 'abused' the truck or hot-rodded the truck around. When traffic is moving at 75 mph...you need to merge and move fast. When you're passing on 2 lane highways or farm to market roads to pass water fracking trucks or whatever, I use the V8 power I bought(hence the reason I didn't by the V6). Cruise control...well I never have had an issue...use it on the highway on flat or slightly hilly terrain that doesn't ask a lot of the engine or transmission. I appreciate the responses that give an answer or insight. For those who are amazed at even the possibility of going above 4500 rpm....please understand that I don't believe any of us are looking for a critique of our driving skills, but rather a solution to our problem. Case in point...I have driven my truck for 13 years...I have averaged 17.3 mpg over that time(60% city 40% highway). If I were abusing the engine or 'gassing' it often, that milage would be substantially worse. I fair better than most on the various mpg websites and count myself lucky. I've flirted with the 'keep it under 2000 rpm' theory for maxing gas milage...not worth the 18.6 to 19.3 I could pull in my opinion.
I will start with the fuel filter and see if there is any resolution to the problem. If not, it appears from many of you my next solution will be to check the 'breathing' of the fuel tank and then eventually the fuel pump if it comes to that.
*Disclaimer, Tundrunk does not condone nor endorse driving in an idiotic fashion, please do not try this at home. The views and opinions of Tundrunk are solely his and do not represent Tundra Solutions.
Wow, now I feel like I drive crazy... maybe it's a California thing. I've punched it going 70 many times, while going up fair grades. I've let my motor race way more times than any truck motor should in all sorts of stressful conditions, but never had it cut out like described. I may or may not have hit the top speed limiter a few times as well, and it does not cut the power out in the manner described.
That said, a change in driving habits is recommended. Why are you going so fast and punching it to begin with? It isn't safe and isn't optimal for the longevity of your truck.
Those things said, first thing I thought was fuel starvation, much like previous members said. Fuel filter, fuel pump, possible clogged injectors, lots of things to check into. I don't feel it is normal for these trucks to cut out as described, however I wouldn't rule out any chance of an issue with the drive by wire...
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TTU2001, does your truck have VSC and traction control? These were optional for 2006 models.
4.7L V8 engine
Up to 16 cty/21 hwy mpg
Navigation System (Optional)
Stability Control (Optional)
Traction Control (Optional)
The VSC will cause the motor to power down. "The VSC Off switch actually handles more than just the Tundra’s electronic stability control – it also interacts with Traction Control (TRAC) and the Automatic Limited-Slip Differential (Auto LSD) features. Basically, when you turn on your truck, TRAC and VSC are armed and Auto LSD is not. This is known as “Normal” mode, and if the truck should start to fishtail or the tires start to spin each system will kick in automatically, braking or powering down the engine as required."
Here is a thread that discuss traction control and VSC and 0 point calibration (TSB), which I found interesting. traction control problems with lift
Lots of traffic in the big city boys and you have to get in it to merge around here. If I have to mat her then I mat her no problem.
2006 Tundra DC with: Eclipse AVN5500 Navigation System, Kicker IX500.4 driving infinity kappa 60.9cs door speakers, Kenwood KAC-X20 driving an infinity kappa 100.9w sub in sound ordnance bass bunker, UWS Black Deep Toolbox, Nasta SS Nerf Bars, Rugged Liner Bed Liner, AVS chrome bug shield, EGR in channel vent visors, Ballistic Enigma 20x9 wheels & Nitto nt420 285/50R20 tires, Hellwig 7697 & 7700 sway bars, Stinger SPP2150 Battery, Big 3 wire upgrade with 1/0 Raptor, Rancho RS5000 struts/shocks, Dynomax VT 17956 muffler, EBC Slotted Sport Rotors & Yellowstuff Kevlar pads, Russell SS brake lines, Cheetah GPS Mirror
Try driving in Massachusetts .
The fools, the fools the fools! They have left us
our Fenian dead, and while Ireland holds these
graves, Ireland unfree shall never be at peace!
Padraig Mac Piarais (Patrick Pearse)
1st off my 06 DC does the same thing in CC. Many times on the slightest of rolling highway inclines. If I run he same section of road with out the CC, I can maintain the exact speed with my foot, therefore the CC should be able to do the same as the engine can obviously pull the hill in top/locked gear.
The CC problem is very common with this truck and YES your truck is fine using the cruise @70mph. Mine has kicked the RPMs right to 4500 before on a slight rolling grade. I have 4 trucks, 1 of which is a full size V8 and it can run the same sections of highway pulling a steel trailer with 3 ATV's in cruise and never miss a beat. The Tundra should be able to do the same empty.
IMO, I would consider fuel starvation. Before I dropped money in a fuel filter and pump, I would run a fuel gauge through the hood and tape it to the windshield. This is a common practice in dealerships to monitor fuel pressure during diagnosis. More than likely you are loosing engine performance due to a lack of fuel flow. Throttle off, the engine can idle while coasting until it regains proper pressure. This would also explain why the engine stalled after trying WOT.
Personally I think Toyota should have offered a fix for this COMMON cruise problem by now. Like I stated earlier, if I can maintain speed up the same hill by foot, the cruise can do the same.
mine see's 5000 -5200 rpms at least once a week............no hills down here...........but would kick way down on my trips to north fla too...............gotta be some sort of fuel starvation issue in my opinion.......175000 plus
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