Hey Guys,
I have removed my passenger side leaf springs. I want to take them completely apart.
I removed the center bolt, but still cannot manage to get the three apart. Has anyone done this? Do I need to dremel off the rivet retaining the open C clamp?


Thanks!!

<TUNDRA>

I stopped at hardware store a week ago, and squatted down to check my tire for an annoying rock in my tread. Found it and popped it out with my key. As I got back up, there was a kind old(76) man behind me. He asked if my truck had a problem, I replied nope. He said "These will last forever if you do the maintenance, mine has 340k on it and runs everyday. Original motor and transmission." I looked over his shoulder to see his 2001 tundra was looking beautiful. You know old folks take care of their cars but would never guess that one had so many miles.
He went on to say "This truck will outlast me I reckon, too bad you got the wimpy V6." I had to laugh, I debadged my truck and when I told him he said "What the hell for?" Love the old timers.
So who has the highest miles here? Original motor or not. At 88k I'm not even close.

I have owned my 2000 V-8 4x4 Tundra since new; 98K now; have read TS for years (but not recently); have Borla, Helwig, JBA shorties, black with layers of Zaino; LOVE my truck!

After my first brake job at Toyota dealer, I noticed an intermittent squeal from the front end which went away after I tapped my brake pedal. It happened very seldom; dealer scratched his head and didn't know the cause. Again, it happened only AFTER pads were changed.

Now, at 98,000 and after the 2nd pad change by Toyota, the squeal is heard even more often. As before, it goes away for a short time after I hit the brake pedal softly. It seems like something is dragging?

Thanks for any info you can provide. This forum has been excellent....but "expensive" (see mods listed above!)

I was cruising along today and came to a stop sign. As i left the stop sign my truck had a strange reaction that was very brief but very unsettling. It seemed to rev hard in an unusual way, almost like it slipped into neutral but it accelerated hard as if it didn't. Hard to describe. I was really easy on the gas pedal when it happened, I didn't accidentally stomp on it. I was concerned so I drove slow and payed close attention to see if it happens again, nope. It was normal for the next 15 miles of city driving.
I am at 88k miles and am do for a timing belt, I changed my oil two weeks ago with no bad signs, I changed my rear end fluid a few months ago, I've been waiting to do my trans fluid. Everything else looks to be in normal working order.
I was thinking maybe a slight glitch in the drive by wire system. Any thoughts? Although it didn't reoccur, it wasn't a cool feeling.

So I was hunting with my buddies last weekend. My one good friend made a joke about my "mini truck". Now he builds pole barns, pulls a trailer, etc. He needs a truck, I just use a truck. Anyway he drives a new Dodge 2500. So on Sunday we all get packed up to leave. He had shot a doe that morning and was going to drive through the cow pasture to get closer to pick her up after everything, for those three, was packed up. I get a few miles down the road when my cell rings. He's stuck where I almost got stuck on Saturday but was able to back out and now he needs me to pull him out. I tell him my "mini truck" probably can't do it and they should take the mile and a half hike to the farmers house and have him pull them out. Haha. I love it. Well I get back there and he has a tow strap and we get them hooked up. I didn't just help him get out, I drug his butt out. He was stuck so deep that his front bumper bottomed out on the way out and darn near ripped off! So I give him a hard time about even attempting to go where I couldn't and drove off with the toyota rep intact.

(I didn't tell anyone about all the rust that came off when I sprayed the mud off at the car wash.)

I have a 2001 tundra off road model with 120,000 miles. Mechanic wants to change timing belt, fluids, water pump. I asked about the tensenator belt. I think thats what it's called, and he told me not necessary. Any thoughts? Quote of $800 for the service.

03 Tundra A/C 4WD, has a vibration at 52mph, feel it in the wheel and pedal, goes away after truck is warmed up, or in 4WD, more noticeable the colder the truck is. Research in forums indicates Front diff needs to be replaced. What other options are there? Thicker diff oil(GL-6)? It already has Mobil Synthetic in it. What will happen if i keep on driving with it? Can just the bearings be replaced in the diff at a lower cost if this is the problem? Anybody else gone though this ?:ts:

are they ever gonna make a compatible 4.0L v6 supercharger for the tundra!? i have an 06 tundra reg cab 4.0L v6 and i really want a s/c and i dont want to spend $6000+ for a custom kit. the current 4.0l v6 trd s/c has fit kits only for the fj and the taco. it is a better price than the custom kit though. trd needs to make a fit kit for the 4.0L v6 tundras and 4runner. Anyone have any suggestions or does anyone know of another way to s/c my tundra? preferably not URD either cause i asked them already and they would have issues with my ECU

thanks

hello all i am very new to the tundra as i just bought one two weeks ago i am in the process of looking for a leveling lift. my truck is a dc 2006 2wd sr5 4.7 v8 i want to lift it about three inches and i was looking at the readylift 3/1 kit but i was advised that the dc do not need a 1 inch in the back only the 2.5 in the front. but does anybody see an advantage with doing the 3/1 and one more thing they also advised me to do the 2.5 readylift and then put bilstein 5100's in all corners what does everybody think about this and thank you for the help.

On the recommendation of the guys at 4 wheel parts, I purchased a Pro Comp 2.5" Leveling Kit (spacers) to get my 2006 DC Limited TRD lifted up in order to fit my 285's on 17" wheels.

I will be doing very limited off-roading. Mainly a daily driver. Now...in doing lots of reading on this forum, I feel like I am making bad decision here by installing a spacer kit because of the potential damage it may do to my ball joints.

I don't have a bunch of money to throw at my set-up, however, I would rather spend a bit more money now instead of having to spend money to replace ball joints later.

So...I am looking for your expert advice...

Bilsteins 5100's w/ Camburg UCA's?

Coilovers?

Which way should I go? Which way should I go?

Thanks!

ACC

So i finally did it. I ordered up a set of bushwackers for my 06 dc. after searching and no luck finding any images of the flares theselves, i was really curious as to what they would look like. my truck originally just came with the chrome trim only. since i did not want to have to drill holes in the fenders and bedsides for the stock dc flares, bushwacker was the only other option. bought them at Truckaddons.com for 325 shipped. To my surprise, they are actually the same as the PORT flares that came on many gulf state tundras. overall i'm happy with them.here's some before and after pics.







ben

My CEL came on yesterday, took the truck to Autozone, the code was P0158.

I can't find any info on this code. Can someone explain it to me?

Thanks!

Contemplating which tire and size to get on my 06 tundra. It has 265/75/16's and i was hoping to move up to 285's. Anyone now how bad the rubbing is when you move up? Also the decision is between the nitto terra grapplers or the bf goodrich at/ko's. Price is not really an issue. Just want the tire thats going to look and be better. Anyone with advice about sizing or which tire to get PLEASE REPLY!

I have a 2004 Tundra and have put 143,000 miles on in a year. No problems until recent trip to New York. The engine light has been on and I read the codes as P0031 and P0057. Both Heater Control Circuit Low bank 1 Sensor 1 and Bank 2 Sensor 2. I could use a hand on step by step replacing these O2 sensors. My bigger problem is the oil pressure gauge decided to stay at the 1st hash or lower always. Not climbing when RPM's up. I believe it's electrical because oil is perfect, never goes low, always clean, no noise under hood. But when taking a nap at the rest area on way back, the brake assist unit for my trailer started snapping and light flickering. only time it happened. Also my gas gauge is fine until 1/4" ful then drops rapidly to empty then climbs back and resumes normal operation. I think they are all electrical but anyone else having these same problems?