Well, I wanted to start an info thread about things you need to know or do when lifting your truck. For example, if I'm considering on adding a 2" front lift & 1" rear lift with spacers or if I have front coilovers and choose to crank the height to its max, what other modifications or upgrades do I need to make so the truck can accomodate the additional height (ie: adding differential drop brackets, upgrading control arms, ball joints, etc).

Mine are leaking a little at full 2.5 lift on the 5100.Have a concern if the ball joints might dry out.

Anyone else with the second generation TUNDRA have theirs longer then 50,000 miles with any upper ball joint concerns?

The UCA angle is slightly higher then level with full 2.56 lift on shocks where stock is slightly lower then level.

Just HOPPING I WONT BE CHANGING UPPER ball joints after 25,000 miles with new shocks.

ALL CONSTRUCTIVE INPUT WELCOME!

Ok, so this is not my Truck and I don't who's it is but I really like the lift a lot, this is pretty much how I would lift mine. This is off the So Cal Super Trucks Toyota gallery. I specially like the work to the body mount.So to whoever this Truck belongs to NICE JOB!
:bow:

Description: Icon Vehicle Dynamics 2.5" Remote Reservoir Coilovers, CST Performance Suspension 3.5" Spindle Kit, Total Chaos Fabrication Uniball Upper Control Arms, CST Performance Suspension Rear Block and U-bolt Kit, Fox Racing Shox 2.0 Remote Reservoir Rear Shocks, SoCal Supertrucks Billet Shock Clamps Black Finish, SoCal Supertrucks Body Mount Plate Kit, 20x9 BMF Novakane Wheels Death Metal Black Finish, 37x13.50x20 Toyo Open Country M/T Tires

I have 5100 to top notch 2.5 lift on my 4x2 07 tundra and notice extra grease (for lack of a better word) coming from plastic upper A arm area sleaves/boots on both sides.

Is that normal to have it come out a little from plastic area boot ?

I HAVE 900 MILES ON SHOCKS with no off roading and stock size tires.

I am asking cause I saw a picture where ONE MEMBER (mxsjw) took screwdriver to show underneath that plastic where grease is, guess that is UCA.

4X4 SHOP INSTALLED SHOCKS AND SAID THAT ANGLES ARE FINE.

Wish I new how to send pics.

I did allot of reading before going with 5100 and took truck to 4x4 shop and assured me that it is normal to see that.

It was dry before 5100 install or maybe not so obvious to me.

I want to lift my 2WD CM 6" and I'm not sure which kit is the best way to go I really like the idea of the CST kit because of the no drop down brackets. But is the Pro Comp better because it has the brackets? Does the CST lift put stress on other front suspension components even with after market UCA's?what is Better? the prices are the about the same for either kit
please help


Toyota 2WD TUNDRA 2007-2010 TOYOTA TUNDRA 2WD - 6-7" LIFT KIT - CST Performance Suspension

How many Tacoma or Tundra owners have the following Strut spacer lift?
extremetrucktoys, ez-lift, or from ebay ez-liftsuspensionsystems
As fare as I can tell all three are from the same manufacture,
I'm not saying anything bad about any of them. Just wonder how many
members have this set up and how you like it.
I see on ebay the seller has 100% good feed back, But is that because
the buyer was in to much of a hurry to give feed back before they had it
long enought to find any bugs, Or is the lifts really that good.?
I have one of the lifts on my truck, But I modified them and they seem to
work better. Thank you for any input.

I leveled my 2010 dc 2wd. (a 2.5 inch spacer front only) Now is there any thing I need to check on such as zero the vsc or any sersors to shim or disconnect the battery or do I just drive like I stole it?

Dan

Last night i was installing the 5100's all around on 07 DC. Took us a while to drop the struts because we didn't know we had to loosen up the bolts on the LCA. But after a while we realized that it had to be loosen it . Well after installing the new billy's to the coils and putting it back to together, the nut and bolt holding the strut and LCA will not thread in correctly.

After some severe torquing we cross threaded the bold and it was a goner. During the time we were taken it aprart, I took off the nut but you can't just pull the bolt out. It was stuck in there. So i took a screwdriver and hammer and bang the inside until the bolt spit out on the other end. I think this is what caused the thread to mess up.

Now I have to go buy a bolt and nut today. How fun. Anybody had this happen before? Wonder how much this bolt and nut gonna cost.

anyone know much about this skyjacker 3inch lift kit. Looks like it comes with new struts for up front and blocks for the rear end. guess u really cant go wrong with skyjacker. just wanted to see if anyone had some info on this.


Product Search - Skyjacker

Anyone have a break down/diagram on how to get the rear axle housing loose from the hubs..Hopefully I am saying that right. :D

Need a set of front adjustable coilovers to keep my 3" lift (toytech setup) But also handle my 558 lb snoplow. Toytech has a nice setup with the eibach springs and Bilsteins, but i called yesterday and talked to someone and wasn't able to get some technical information that I was looking for.

Such as: what is the factory spring rate for the 5.7 TRD coils compared to the eibachs on their setup.

Is the eibach spring a variable rate?

What is the additiional load carrying capacity of the Toytech system compared to factory springs with the Toytech "Preload" spacer type kit I have in there now.

I am looking at the $899 setup on the toytech website.

Thanks for any insight and experience

A friend suggested I join this site. I have a Toyota Corolla and I'm not quite sure what the Big O Tires guy was rambling about. Do I really need a new axle or is he just trying to get more money out of me? His comments are gibberish to me too! :( I think he was trying to just get me to cave in and get the parts at his store. I heard the same spiel to the customers behind me. Suspect.

Mechanic's words verbatim:
Right front drive axle, 1.9 hr steam clean, trans flush, p/s flush, lower front control arm busings torn, has oil leak recheck after steam cleaning performed.

My friend thinks it might be: "the CV boot is probably torn...and they are saying axle instead of CV boot which can hurt the CV joint."

I'm pretty sure threw a tooth in my front differential. when I engage the 4x4, it makes a very bad clunking sound.
Here is the bigger problem, I can't find a replacement. My Axle code is A04A, which according to an Axle chart from a Toyota parts dealer is
First digit
Diameter of Ring Gear
A = 7.5”
Second & Third digit
Gear Ratio
04 = 4.556 or 4.300
Fourth digit
Number of Pinions
A = 2
Every used one I find from a Tundra is either 3.91 or 4.10
I live outside of Pittsburgh, PA.

Any Suggestion?