well on the GM's you will have to upgrade the braking system, but the Tundras already got way more braking than is required for the truck to begin with. So no need to upgrade, but you do have a valid point non the less.....
Mark
Ehhh... in your opionion at least...
I'd say the stock braking system even for a RCSB 2wd aka the lightest model, is rather okay.
With my stock 18's and michellins and all stock brakes I faded quite a few times rather easily. When I took them off to put my BBK on they were all glazed all the way around.
What I don't get is why Toyota doesn't seem to want to have too much surface area on their disc's. Even the TRD BBK doesn't have much of a swept area compared to even smaller discs on some cars. Thats more of what actually determines a vehicles braking ability.
On the front the 14" rotors and 4 piston calipers seem good and true. But If you look at the tundras rear brakes... although seeming rather large in size... there is a very small portion of the disc for actual pad contact.
A lot of "hype" if you ask me. Big Brakes sell trucks right!
Just my 2cents...
Compared to the opinions on some I tend to also agree with Mark on this. Take for example the first gen Tundra used a rather small 4 piston caliper design on the 00-02 and was well knowen the Tacoma spare brakes carryover didn't suit well on this application . The problem was Limited contact area on the caliper caused the brakes to prematurely warp and caused a lot of vibe issues .
Things have changed On the front brakes of the 2007 Tundra .Tundas brake size is 13.9 inch diameter ventilated disc and on the rear's 13.6 inch diamenter ventilated disc which aid in better braking ablility. If you add rear disc for 2007 which was a welcome upgrade being Gm trucks has had them since 2000. Tundra offers an advanced brake control system that includes massive vented rotors in addition to a swept area of more then 74 sq ft.
Last edited by Tundrav8yamaha; 06-30-2008 at 08:28 PM.
I am not trying to argue cause I think everyone has made at least 1 good point here, but why does HP have ANYTHING to do with braking power. I can see maybe changing wheels/tires, other mods that make the truck significantly heavier, but really, its true that stopping from 100-0 with stock HP and stopping from 100-0 with 1000 HP makes no difference. Maybe some mean that having that much HP will cause you to be in the higher speeds more often and are referring to a need for brake upgrades to resist fade from continuous high intensity use... Otherwise, I would keep the stock brakes unless your endurance racing a 6000 lb truck. These brakes are pretty good in comparison to others on similar models.
Josh
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LOL I am still laughing at this. San- surprised at you. Yeah you can downshift with the Tundra, but you call that downshifting as in a manual? Big difference. Plus the tundra tranny ecm doesnt allow you to shift that quickly on a downshift however as much it downshifts.
I hope you also know that if you touch the brake for at least 1.5 secs, the engine downshifts. Please tell me you do!
Quote:
it has to do with momentum, how fast it took you to get there, and the same momentum that you are flying down the road with to stop. Maybe I am not explaining it right. But for me personally and anyone I know that have beasts from cars to trucks to bikes and they increase their hp buy alot ALWAYS UPGRADE THEIR BRAKES. Maybe the BBK from TOYO suffices. BUT FOR ME and others that I know, I like to stop on a dime. The stock brakes I have on my DC are garbage. My 08 escalade stops soooooooooooooo much better and quicker then the Tundra. Even my boys 07 Avalanche 6.0L stops better then the Tundra. Both trucks are stock brakes.
LOL LOL! Look at the weight of both vehicles. Naturally, the lighter truck _will_ stop sooner due to less rolling momentum to overcome with the brake. Now, add in more weight, guess what, you'll stop at a point further down the same track. If you can understand that, good. The new Tundra comes with _VENTILATED_ disc brakes which aids greatly in heat dispasstion when braking and also has EBD (electronic braking distribution) which distributes the braking force amongst brakes so no one single brake takes all the force.
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Going back to well trained driver qoute-
well I guess most of you just punch it beat the guy by 2 lengths and slow down way before the red light.
out here we race all the way, I wont go into street racing cause of legalities and such. LOL
I am just talking from experience and based on some of the answers here you guys are not really racing, just playing around with the trucks which is fine. I just like safe or as close too.
Thanks
If you will, go your way, and I will go my way. But I still stand my ground that a well trained driver WILL UNDERSTAND that a vehicle like the Tundra does not stop on a dime and will adjust their driving ACCORDINGLY. Its not like the Tundra is towing 10,000 pounds and you pound on that brake to stop it from 100 mph.
Take it to the track, dude if you think you want to push your truck to the limits and kill yourself at the same time. Be my guest as that is what the limiter is for -- to stop ourselves from losing it, in all practicality outside of track conditions.
381 HP Tundra 60-0 Times = 504 HP Tundra 60-0 Times = 10,000 HP Tundra 60-0 Times -- After 1 stop with exactly the same stock brake setup.
381 HP Tundra 60-0 Times with BBK =/ 381 HP Tundra 60-0 Times with stock brakes after 10 stops back-to-back.
It has nothing to do with horsepower. Just braking endurance. The only time this comes into play is during repeated intense braking operations - like during racing or slowing a heavy load down a steep grade.
Well, in my opinion you need big brakes if you race a lot (and i hope you guys keep it off street)
And I have SC, and i rarely use it to the full extend, and if I do, I try to use it in rural area, where I don't have to use my brakes, and put people into dangerous situations.
On the other hand, if you have big animal come out in front of your truck, then its different story, you need to stop fast!
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anyone knows how much it cost to install the s/c kit and who will do it not far from me.
Thank you
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I'd say the stock braking system even for a RCSB 2wd aka the lightest model, is rather okay.
With my stock 18's and michellins and all stock brakes I faded quite a few times rather easily. When I took them off to put my BBK on they were all glazed all the way around.
What I don't get is why Toyota doesn't seem to want to have too much surface area on their disc's. Even the TRD BBK doesn't have much of a swept area compared to even smaller discs on some cars. Thats more of what actually determines a vehicles braking ability.
On the front the 14" rotors and 4 piston calipers seem good and true. But If you look at the tundras rear brakes... although seeming rather large in size... there is a very small portion of the disc for actual pad contact.
A lot of "hype" if you ask me. Big Brakes sell trucks right!
Just my 2cents...
true,good point also, it would be nice if they had put "more area under the pad" so to say, and also you are punishing your brakes on those high speed moutain roads.....
with all the high speed stops we did all weekend with the charged X-SP i never felt any brake fade, but now we are on flat land over here also.....come to think of it i don't think we got them hot enough to smell them either.........
oh well, now we have .04 cents
Mark
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remember the ricer is stick (he can slow down real quick just by shifting), your not.
I'm glad you've got engineers working on the tuner, cause that statement says it all.
Are you actually telling me that when you need to panic stop a manual trans car, you are downshifting and engine braking? bwaaaahahhahaaa
To stop a manual trans car, you push in the clutch and hammer the brakes. There is no engine braking effect.
To stop an auto like the Tundra, you simply jam on the brakes. The trans does actually downshift while you are braking, but it helps only a tiny fraction of what the brakes are doing.
trying to get a side by side comparison of this one and a stock one for everyone to see the actual difference in acceleration with the charger on......
Mark
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trying to get a side by side comparison of this one and a stock one for everyone to see the actual difference in acceleration with the charger on......
If you are able to do this, I would do two runs, where the drivers swap trucks.
If you are able to do this, I would do two runs, where the drivers swap trucks.
well, that would be a mute point in this case, both drivers are drag racers in the off time, the other truck is "known" by it's owner in the correct way to take off for the best "time", and i know how to take off in the s/c'd truck as he has never driven it. Anyone that races knows part of the math involved in a quick E.T. is knowing your car/truck. So he knows his truck and i do not, i know the s/c'd truck and he does not.
(any who i don't want to be in his if something happens to it. )
Mark
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Look guys I race for a living. The stock brakes work well up to lets say 110 Mph. this is an example. When you supercharge a car or truck typically you can push your car or truck faster than it originally came from the factory. The engineers didn't design the brake system to work beyond a certain speed lets say 145Mph. That doesn't sound like much more speed but the friction it take to slow that truck down from 145 vs 110 is huge. That is why people upgrade there brakes. You guys are fine with the stock brakes for the everyday driver. But if you remove the speed limiter and push that truck greater than a 100 mph+ its a good idea to upgrade. I hope this cleared some confusion.
I had an old Pontiac Sunbird with a 350 engine swap and direct port Fogger nitrous. The faster it went, the less adequate the stock brakes became. At one point I used to have to pile on the brakes as hard as I could the instant I cleared the traps, just to get it to slow down enough to avoid running out of track because the stock brakes were completely inadequate.
It all depends on what you are doing with the car. Eighth mile I might have gotten away with it, but I agree it is best to err on the side of caution.
$2000.oo for labor????????? that's crazy. That sounds like a "Unique wipes" estimate.
__________________ 2008 Tundra Crew max limited black with red rock interior 26" MHT wheels,factory flares, black out bumpers,tinted lights, HID's in headlights and fog lights,led's everywere, black piping on the seats, Alpine dvd head unit,blue tooth,Ipod conector,rear back up camera, 10" rear tv screen, 2 12" kicker's with amps and custum made box,TRD BBK, TRD rear muffler with custume exhaust tip,air bag suspension,train horns.