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Forced Induction SystemsDetailed discussions regarding cold-air intake systens, superchargers, turbo chargers, and other induction systems for your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Intake Air Temperature Mod", within the Forced Induction Systems forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Originally posted by 03TundraTRD scdtrd
Can you tell me where I can get one of those resistors and where/how would I install it on my 03 Tundra V6 this would help my perfprmance a whloe lot since Guam is like 85 to 90 degrees all year long
A stereo shop MIGHT have a resistor your looking for. The wattage in the audio systems are MICH higher and the resistors would have to handle more power. I am planning on a SPDT LINEAR 5 watt POT. That way, I can adjust for optimum as needed. It will adjust between 4.7K and 0. It is like a light dimmer.
Also, I will put the scan tool on at the same time and monitor the temp reading as the ECU see it, and mark accordingly on the dial I make. I will take pics and supply all with a shopping list as well when done. I am making a center console from a Sequoia center section. That way, I can make a gauge pod and monitor from there!
SCDTRD
__________________ The Beast: 1994 Toyota Camry V6 XLE
The Mods:
Front tower Ractive Strut Bar, Whiteline rear AntiSway Bar, Rage Breaker 17.5x7 Rims and Falken Ziex 512 rubber, Limo Tint, Pioneer DEH 7700MP Head Unit, Polk 6x9 rear and Polk 6.5 Front speakers, Tokico struts front and rear, Carbon kevlar brake pads, Cryo treated rotors, ZEX 82021 N2O system, Polished and ported upper and lower intake runners, shift kit, and more to come.....and.... YES... it is a CAMRY....
Originally posted by fyr145 i've been watching this for a few days now and I cant wait to see your mod description & pics
I will post as I get them. I am waiting on another member to assist with a schematic. Once that is done, then David and I can put the scan tool on and start making adjustments and readings.
I found the resistor. I need the wire sheath and the console to finish. I believe it will make a BIG diff.
SCDTRD
__________________ The Beast: 1994 Toyota Camry V6 XLE
The Mods:
Front tower Ractive Strut Bar, Whiteline rear AntiSway Bar, Rage Breaker 17.5x7 Rims and Falken Ziex 512 rubber, Limo Tint, Pioneer DEH 7700MP Head Unit, Polk 6x9 rear and Polk 6.5 Front speakers, Tokico struts front and rear, Carbon kevlar brake pads, Cryo treated rotors, ZEX 82021 N2O system, Polished and ported upper and lower intake runners, shift kit, and more to come.....and.... YES... it is a CAMRY....
any estimates on how much HP or Torque this mod will end up delivering?
also, when you are drawing the schematic, be sure to list the exact part numbers and stores where you all got these parts for this neat project! Thanks
Originally posted by fyr145 any estimates on how much HP or Torque this mod will end up delivering?
also, when you are drawing the schematic, be sure to list the exact part numbers and stores where you all got these parts for this neat project! Thanks
Not as of yet. I can tell a BIG diff. between the engine in the morning, cool air and the afternoon ride home, hot air.
It MUST play a big part in the TRD piggyback program.
SCDTRD
__________________ The Beast: 1994 Toyota Camry V6 XLE
The Mods:
Front tower Ractive Strut Bar, Whiteline rear AntiSway Bar, Rage Breaker 17.5x7 Rims and Falken Ziex 512 rubber, Limo Tint, Pioneer DEH 7700MP Head Unit, Polk 6x9 rear and Polk 6.5 Front speakers, Tokico struts front and rear, Carbon kevlar brake pads, Cryo treated rotors, ZEX 82021 N2O system, Polished and ported upper and lower intake runners, shift kit, and more to come.....and.... YES... it is a CAMRY....
Not as of yet. I can tell a BIG diff. between the engine in the morning, cool air and the afternoon ride home, hot air.
It MUST play a big part in the TRD piggyback program.
SCDTRD
Hey there Scdtrd...just curious if you've made any progress on this?
My friend found an air/fuel mixture tuning module from LC Engineering:
(Scroll down to "Pro A/F Tuning Module".) This is essentially a potentiometer that allows you to adjust resistance. This, coupled with a A/F fuel mixture gauge and/or a OBD II scan tool, may be something to play with???
Seee-ya,
Jim.
__________________ Base: '02 Tundra SR5 Imperial Jade Mica 4WD w/ TRD Off-Road, EVP Convenience & Tow Packages, Oak Interior & Captains Chairs, 6 Speaker/6-Disk CD, VIP 3K, Chrome Wheel Locks, & Anti-lock Brakes with DRL Mods: K&N FIPK II, Ram Air Performance System (RAPS), Unichip, Ivan Stewart Flares and TRD Grille, 2" Cornfed Front Suspension Lift (How-To Guide), BFG A/T 265/75's, Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar (How-To Guide), JBA Headers & 2" Highflow Y-Pipe, 2.5" Exhaust Cutout with QuickTime Performance Electric Cutout (QTEC), Flowmaster 50 Series™ Delta Flow® Performance Muffler with Dual 2.5" x 18" Chrome Tips, ASP Racing Underdrive Pulley, PPD Billet Goodies, Rhino Liner, Tinted-windows, etc. Planned: My Tundra is done for now. Next up: Build new 400ci for my '69 Pontiac Custom S
(Scroll down to "Pro A/F Tuning Module".) This is essentially a potentiometer that allows you to adjust resistance. This, coupled with a A/F fuel mixture gauge and/or a OBD II scan tool, may be something to play with???
Seee-ya,
Jim.
Thanx, That mod is not exactly what I need. I did that mod on my 1995 Toyota 3.0 V6. Worked great! The IAT is built-in to the MAF on the V8 Tundra. In speaking with Gadget and others, it is not really an item to fiddle with. You CAN adjust, but via electronics.. aka Unichip. That is the route I am going!
SCDTRD
__________________ The Beast: 1994 Toyota Camry V6 XLE
The Mods:
Front tower Ractive Strut Bar, Whiteline rear AntiSway Bar, Rage Breaker 17.5x7 Rims and Falken Ziex 512 rubber, Limo Tint, Pioneer DEH 7700MP Head Unit, Polk 6x9 rear and Polk 6.5 Front speakers, Tokico struts front and rear, Carbon kevlar brake pads, Cryo treated rotors, ZEX 82021 N2O system, Polished and ported upper and lower intake runners, shift kit, and more to come.....and.... YES... it is a CAMRY....
I have the resistors but I do not know where the IAT is located. Call me ignorant, but this is my first fuel injected auto. Someone let me know so that I can install it.
Thanks,
greg
__________________ Work hard for 14. Play hard for 14. Just another offshore junkie.
2006 Phantom Gray Pearl SR5 2WD w/ 17" Rims
MODS: Westin Chrome Nerf Bars, Full Front Clear Paint Protection, Custom 2 Tone Leather Gray Seats, LED Door Lights, XENON Interior Lights, XENON Headlights, Foglights, Cargo Lights, & Reverse Lights; Hard Wired Radar Detector, Eclipse CD Player, Focal PolyGlass 6 1/2" rear speakers, 6 1/2" Polk Momo Components in Front, Eclipse EA4000 amplifier on highs, 2 Diamond Audio DS3 8" 2ohm Dual Voice Coils in Custom Fiber Box under back seat hooked to a Eclipse XA1000 Class D amp at 1 ohm = 1000 watts (250 per voice coil), Debadged, LImo Tinted WIndows & Eye Brow, In-Channel Vent Shades, Dell Inspiron 6000 for DVD's and Magellan GPS
I have the resistors but I do not know where the IAT is located. Call me ignorant, but this is my first fuel injected auto. Someone let me know so that I can install it.
Thanks,
greg
It is built-in to the MAF. If you look at the MAF, there is a small thingie above the larger wire. That is it. It is basically a thermister. One of the lines from the MAF is the output of the IAT. That is where the POT goes!
Let me know.. I am interested as well... if you have the part!
SCDTRD
__________________ The Beast: 1994 Toyota Camry V6 XLE
The Mods:
Front tower Ractive Strut Bar, Whiteline rear AntiSway Bar, Rage Breaker 17.5x7 Rims and Falken Ziex 512 rubber, Limo Tint, Pioneer DEH 7700MP Head Unit, Polk 6x9 rear and Polk 6.5 Front speakers, Tokico struts front and rear, Carbon kevlar brake pads, Cryo treated rotors, ZEX 82021 N2O system, Polished and ported upper and lower intake runners, shift kit, and more to come.....and.... YES... it is a CAMRY....
It is built-in to the MAF. If you look at the MAF, there is a small thingie above the larger wire. That is it. It is basically a thermister. One of the lines from the MAF is the output of the IAT. That is where the POT goes!
Let me know.. I am interested as well... if you have the part!
SCDTRD
SO that would mean that I would have to cut the wire and solder the resistor to the wire. I am going to check it out and see and if I can do it. I still have a lot of warranty left and might just save for the chip instead. Cutting would probably mess with the warranty. b UT WHO KNOWS?!?!?! I WANNA GO FAST. HAHAHA.
GREG
__________________ Work hard for 14. Play hard for 14. Just another offshore junkie.
2006 Phantom Gray Pearl SR5 2WD w/ 17" Rims
MODS: Westin Chrome Nerf Bars, Full Front Clear Paint Protection, Custom 2 Tone Leather Gray Seats, LED Door Lights, XENON Interior Lights, XENON Headlights, Foglights, Cargo Lights, & Reverse Lights; Hard Wired Radar Detector, Eclipse CD Player, Focal PolyGlass 6 1/2" rear speakers, 6 1/2" Polk Momo Components in Front, Eclipse EA4000 amplifier on highs, 2 Diamond Audio DS3 8" 2ohm Dual Voice Coils in Custom Fiber Box under back seat hooked to a Eclipse XA1000 Class D amp at 1 ohm = 1000 watts (250 per voice coil), Debadged, LImo Tinted WIndows & Eye Brow, In-Channel Vent Shades, Dell Inspiron 6000 for DVD's and Magellan GPS
An electronics supply store like Radio Shack sells resistors. They have to be at least 1/2 watt resistors,1/4 watt ones will probably burn out.
You need to find the positive wire of the sensor circuit and connect the resistor in series.
i was wondering what two recepticles you lay the resistor across on the the iat clip. i found the one that has.5v coming out, but i'm not exaclty sure which other recepticle i need to fit with the other end of the resistor. by the way, do you know what the ratio is that is being changed? __thanks__
i was wondering what two recepticles you lay the resistor across on the the iat clip. i found the one that has.5v coming out, but i'm not exaclty sure which other recepticle i need to fit with the other end of the resistor. by the way, do you know what the ratio is that is being changed? __thanks__
check ebay they are selling the " 20 h.p. thing " for like $20.00
i know its like a joke but it is based of the princible of using a resistor in line to the maf or air temp sensor or somthing like that to trick engine into beliving outside temp air is like 20 deg. less than it really is - therefor addvancing the timing. - to normal asperated engines this would probably be a waste of time but to the piece of c**p trd piggyback guys (we know who we are) it might be worth trying. ? .? ....sorry im to afraid to cut into my wires and be the ginnypig. ill try to find a link to the ebay site -
i'm too big of a sissy to start cutting wires. i have to know exactly what i going to do with this thing. anybody got pics or info?
thanks
i've got enough problems in my life ,let alone myself screwing up my maf. -
wish this mod was tried and tested cause its a real good idea and sounds cheap to do-
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I am gonna check it out
and be the ginnypig. ill try to find a link to the 
Linear Mode
