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Forced Induction SystemsDetailed discussions regarding cold-air intake systens, superchargers, turbo chargers, and other induction systems for your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Intake Air Temperature Mod", within the Forced Induction Systems forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
thanks for that link SCDTRD. that really helped a lot. i've seen this link before, but it i think this is an updated version. this one has more detail and schematics. i'm kind of under the impression that i would have to lay two different resistors across two different recepticles in the IAT plug. since toyotas have a five recepticle plug (which is different for say, a chevy with a two recepticle plug), its a little bit harder to find which one does which. i might break out the ohmmeter and test the resistances in the sensor( the piece that goes into the airbox).
in the link (above in quote box) it shows that there is a heater sensor and a thermistor sensor. i'm just beginning to understand how the ECU works, so i don't know the exact numbers i need to trick the system into opening up more for air. when the piggyback is done, the plug is disconnected with the sensor and the only values being read by the system are the resistance values that you stick in the plug's recepticles. that why i think you might need two: 1) to read the heater sensor value 2) to read the thermistor sensor.
OK I have done a little search on the borad and I think that I know how to install the resistor to trick the ECU to think that it is colder. Looking at the MAF sensor from the front of the truck the far right wire and the one beside it seem to control the IAT, one supplys 5 Volts and the other is the ground for the IAT. All 3 of the wire on the left seem to control the MAF sensor so they wont need to be messed with. Back to the other two on the far right, If I were to peel back the plastic cover around the wires then cut and skin-back the two wires that control the IAT, soulder in the resistor and wrap with electrical tape then cover back with the palstic, would that be installing the resistor correctly to make the ECU think that it is cooler?
I just bought a DTPC (Dynamic Tuning Performance Chip) from Dynamic Tuning out of Clearwater, Florida. This "chip" is a resister that installs into the IAT Sensor plug. Then the plug is left disconnected from the IAT sensor. This would be easily done if my IAT Sensor plug was a two wire. Unfortunately the instructions that came with this DTPC states if the plug is a four or five wire, I will have to locate the two correct two wires to install the "chip" to. Thanks to SCRTRD I was able to find the wiring diagram from the .pdf file he provided ( http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf ). It appears tha I will have to go into the harness and cut THA and E2 then solder the resister between these two wires. Then I'll plug the connector back into the IAT Sensor to repower the +B, E2G and VG for the MAF Sensor. I certainly hope I'm on the right track. Any final suggestions prior to me attempting this will be appreciated. I am looking forward to the "up to" +60HP and 20MPG increase that Dynamic Tuning claims is posible with their "chip".
Google ECM for 3UR-FE engine, look through choices to "Engine Control for 3UR–FE" which has a really good wiring schematic complete with wires and their actual colors!! See its page 121.
Bottom line for IAT appears to me to be: blue with white line
AND yellow with black line
I just bought a DTPC (Dynamic Tuning Performance Chip) from Dynamic Tuning out of Clearwater, Florida. This "chip" is a resister that installs into the IAT Sensor plug. Then the plug is left disconnected from the IAT sensor. This would be easily done if my IAT Sensor plug was a two wire. Unfortunately the instructions that came with this DTPC states if the plug is a four or five wire, I will have to locate the two correct two wires to install the "chip" to. Thanks to SCRTRD I was able to find the wiring diagram from the .pdf file he provided ( http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf ). It appears tha I will have to go into the harness and cut THA and E2 then solder the resister between these two wires. Then I'll plug the connector back into the IAT Sensor to repower the +B, E2G and VG for the MAF Sensor. I certainly hope I'm on the right track. Any final suggestions prior to me attempting this will be appreciated. I am looking forward to the "up to" +60HP and 20MPG increase that Dynamic Tuning claims is posible with their "chip".
+60 HP eh? get a neck brace, or plant your head firmly against the headrest before the test drive ! lol.
Sounds like you have the wiring figured out correctly for what they want, hopefully it doesn't code with the ECM seeing a constant IAT value. Most ECM starategies now look for changes in a sensor's value to determine if a sensor has failed. I would think a resistor placed in the circuit with the IAT in either series or parallel ( depending on the slope of temperature curve desired) would make more sense as it would modify the signal at various conditions while showing variance to the ECM. Please post your results.
I am thinking of designing a circuit that will read the IAT and place a modified signal back to the ECM via a digitally controlled poteniometer chip, this will allow a curve to be made that may be non-linear if necessary, kind of point by point performance curve. I will post any findings I get with this method.
Google ECM for 3UR-FE engine, look through choices to "Engine Control for 3UR–FE" which has a really good wiring schematic complete with wires and their actual colors!! See its page 121.
Linear Mode
