Do you want to lower the rear of your Tundra about an inch so for that level look? Then read on. I’ll tell you how I did it. But first, I would like to give proper thanks to fellow member Dude Boy. Without his posts and PM’s instructing me on what to do, this thread would not have been possible. Like many other members, I prefer the level look on our trucks, which was usually only possible with spacers in the front. But, since I load my motorcycles in and out of the bed a lot, I would prefer to have the rear a little lower to make it a little easier.
1 set of Bell Tech model 6700 shackles. These are made for Chevy trucks, but will fit properly on the Tundra with a little grinding of the bushings. According to Dude Boy, the 6400 Kit can also be used. I didn't use the 6400 kit, so I can't say what the differences are.
1 eyebolt 5/16 or 3/8 diameter with threads further up the shank toward the eye. This is needed to properly set the brake-proportioning valve.
2 bolts and a washer for the eye bolt.
Grinder or Dremel
Flat file
Jack stands
A jack (two is better)
Wheel blocks
19mm socket
Long ratchet or breaker bar
19mm wrench
Hammer
Tape measure
First, before jacking up the truck, use the tape measure and measure the distance between the bracket holding the load-proportioning valve and the bottom of the bed. Note the location of the measuring tape on the underside of the bed when measuring because you will want to use the same spot at the end of the project to set the new eyebolt. The bottom of the bed has ridges and could significantly alter the measurement. Improper setting of the eyebolt could lead to a dangerous situation when braking. My measurement was about 14 ¼ inches or so.
In the picture below, you can see that wrote the measurement (although the wrong measurement from the ground to the bracket - you need the measurement from the bed to the bracket) on the washer that attaches the eyebolt to the rear end. I also marked with a pen the angle of the eyebolt onto the washer. I just drew a line indicating the “down” direction of the washer with an arrow and the position of the eyebolt shank, just to make sure everything lined up properly in the end.
Rear
Brake Proportioning Valve
Follow the instructions in the Bell Tech kit to supplement these instructions and put wheel blocks in front of, and maybe even behind, the front wheels. Put jack stands under the frame on each side just forward of the front hangers on the rear springs. Use a jack under the front hangers to raise the frame to set on the jack stands about an inch or two higher than stock.
Bell Tech 6700 Kit Contents
Working on only one side at a time, use the jack under the front hanger to relieve some of the weight of the truck from the shackle and bolts in the rear.
Jack Positions
Using the 19mm socket and breaker bar/ratchet, remove the nuts holding the rear of spring to the shackle and the shackle to the frame. You will need to adjust the jack up and/or down under the hanger so that the bottom bolt holding the shackle to the frame can be removed. You are trying to align the hole of the shackle with the hole in the frame bracket. Using the hammer, gently tap out the shackle bolt. I also used a short piece of threaded rod (or another bolt, etc.) to push the bolt further out, but don’t push the bolt all the way out with the rod or the rod may get stuck instead of the bolt. When the bolt is almost tapped out. Try to remove it the rest of the way by hand or other way. Just use caution because the spring can be under pressure.
When the bottom bolt is out, use the other jack under the U-bolt hanger of the axle to raise the spring up enough to remove the top bolt, which holds the spring to the shackle. You will see that it is necessary to raise the spring because the frame is in the way of removing the bolt. It may be necessary to use the hammer on this bolt again. The stock shackle should fall right off.
Raising the shackle to remove the
bolts
Take out one of the Bell Tech shackles. Using a grinder, Dremel, or anything else to file/grind away metal, grind off the little ridge of the metal bushing on the Bell Tech shackle.
Grinding
off the ridge of the metal bushing
The bushing will be ground down so it is flush with the rubber surrounding it.
Bushing
ground flat
Periodically fit it up to the shackle bracket on the truck to check the fit. The open end of the shackle goes toward the front of the truck. You have ground off enough metal when the shackle fits freely within the shackle bracket. the next photo shows the difference in the length of the Bell Tech and stock shackles.
Difference in
Bell Tech 9left) and stock (right) shackles
Reinstall the top bolt that attaches the shackle to the spring. Put the bolt through the top (endmost) hole in the shackle. Make sure the threaded portion of the bolt is to the outside of the truck. Tighten the nut onto the bolt. You will need the 19mm wrench here. I also used Locktite on the threads to make sure the nut didn’t back off. I had no idea what the torque specs of that nut were.
Installing the first bolt into the Bell
Tech shackle
Lower the jack that is supporting the U-bolt hanger. This will allow some slack in the suspension for you to move the remaining unbolted end of the shackle into position on the hanger. There is enough slack in the springs that you can use your hands to pull it down into position. It will probably be necessary to use a hammer to tap the shackle into position and align the holes for the bolt to go through. You may also need to adjust the jack up and/or down to do this. Insert the bolt so that the threaded end is toward the outside of the truck. You may need the hammer to gently tap the bolt through. Tighten the nut onto the bolt. I used Locktite here too.
Inserting lower bolt into the
Bell Tech shackle
Repeat the procedure on the other side. When both sides are complete, lower the truck to the ground (no jacks or stands).
Here is a picture showing why you need a new eyebolt with threads all the way to the eye.
Difference
between stock and new eyebolts
This picture shows how the eyebolt bushing comes apart and the bolt I got at Lowes.
Stock
and new eye bolts
Screw one nut onto the eyebolt and put a washer on it. Insert the new eyebolt into the load proportioning valve arm bracket and put the other nut on the other side. Dude Boy used a 5/16 inch bolt. I couldn't find one of those at Lowes and had to use a 3/8 inch bolt. I had to drill the hole in the valve arm bracket a little bigger. The rubber bushing that goes through the eye and mounts to the rear end easily comes apart. Put the big washer back on and bolt the eye to the rear end and adjust the height of the brake proportioning arm to stock distance from the bottom of the bed.
Installing new eyebolt
I hope this helps you. I had never done this type of work on a car or truck before and it was pretty easy to do. Just be careful and use common sense so that the truck doesn’t roll or fall during the install. Good luck.
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| Before BellTech 6700 shackles | With BellTech 6700 shackles |