I’m not taking any credit with this posting to the factory Nav thread. All I know is what I have learned from gbbuilders (the OP), pedro66, wileetundra, WT, PS-Rage, toxarch and many others on TS that have gone before. Rather I post my install here because there may be others out there like me that are slow learners and need all the nitty gritty details of how the whole job was done.
For background, I always wished the long beds could be had with Nav from the factory but was pretty happy with the 6CD JBL with Bluetooth that came on my SR5. I had been watching eBay auctions for a factory Nav and back in early 2007 had even found an eBay seller from Canada that sold official conversion kits. The price was a killer and I had other priorities at the time.
Well, al that changed in early October. Found a fairly good deal on an OEM Nav on eBay. That combined with about 3 beers and making the eBay seller an offer on it lower than the Buy It Now got me there. He took me up on my offer. Woola. Nav head unit owner.
So here is what I’ve discovered in this journey and how I did it:
I already had the JBL premium audio with Bluetooth so I was a long way toward the Nav install. It wasn’t “plug and play” as you will see but there are two different Toyota Nav installation manuals out there
(EDIT: make that three with the newer updated instructions in the post right after this one). One is for those without JBL audio (non-premium audio) and the other is for those like me who already have JBL audio (premium audio). Here are links to these manuals already available on TS and the premium audio one is the same link gbbuilders (OP) has above.
Vehicles with Non-Premium audio Nav Install:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...tundra-nav.pdf
UPDATE: See next post by jamesryanb in this thread for a better more updated version of the "non premium" installation instructions.
Vehicles with Premium JBL Nav Install:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...drapremium.pdf
Both manuals are invaluable and I used both for reference. The non-premium gets into more detail as to what must be added like a JBL amp and such but also gives more insight into some things even if you already have the JBL per this thread. Also very important is the thread created by PS-RagE on the common Tundra signal wires found here:
Common Signal Lines for the 2007 Tundra
There are 6 important items needed for a successful “Nav” conversion for an SR5 or Limited with original JBL audio. You need more than just the head unit itself (#1). Additional items that are mandatory include the GPS antenna (#2), the 5-pin K6 reverse/speed sensor plug (#3), a new Aux input harness if you want to keep your auxiliary audio port on the dash (#4), the all-important 24-pin K7 Mic connector plug (#5) and the OEM Nav DVD (#6). If you go onto Craig's List or eBay and only buy a head unit you will have to source the balance of items yourself. So do yourself a favor and try to get all the other 5 items included. I didn’t list the sheetmetal GPS mounting bracket as I’m not sure how many system pulls would include this item. This is not as critical as it’s easy enough to make yourself.
I figured as long as I was going to tear into everything I may as well install the factory XM kit and ditch my Pioneer Inno that kept randomly turning off. I also decided the Toyota OEM VIP security system with glass-breakage sensor and hood switch was a no brainer since the labor was nil with the dash taken apart. So I did these two items as well but won’t get into those installs here.
Another thing I decided was to install one of wileetundra’s speed pulse generators (SPG) to allow Navigation input on the go by my right seater. And after reading pedro66’s post on the anytime rear-view monitor mod I decided to add a switch for turning on the rear camera any time I wanted. Since these two items go with the Nav install and usage I will include those in this post.
Using the handy Toyota Navigation System Installation instructions referenced above I started by taking apart my dashboard and glove box. I have the bench seat model but the bucket seat model is covered very well in the same instructions. This stuff is fully explained in the Nav instructions so I won’t go into the details. BTW, the XM install is more very good reference material since it shows the driver’s-side dash information (can’t have too much information when tearing into your truck, right?):
http://www.trdsparks.com/install/PT546-34070inst.pdf
After removing the original standard JBL head unit I used a Sharpie marker to write the plug numbers on the factory harness plugs for quick reference during the job:
Note that the K7 plug shown in this photo is a new plug shipped with the unit and I took this photo later in the project.
Next, I took apart my overhead console. I already had the fixed rear-view monitor which had been installed the week after I purchased the vehicle so I removed it and the 4 torx screws holding the overhead console to the roof. After removing the console I reinstalled the original sunglasses holder where the monitor had been (I knew there was a reason I keep all my old parts in a box).
In order to get the rear-view camera to display on the Nav I read the OP’s instructions about how to drop down the video signals from the monitor plug in the overhead console to the back of the Nav unit. This required 4 wires. I used some 4/16 wire from Lowes but a shielded 3-conductor wire (with the shield becoming the 4th video neg. lead) would be better and better match the shielded Toyota signal lines as shown in the schematics in the common signal lines thread. Here is a schematic of the wires exactly as described by OP:
There are actually two ways
(EDIT: make that three with the latest discovered location behind the glove box per next post by jamesryanb) to connect and route the reverse camera wires. One may be easier than the other depending on which side of the truck you want to work on. The conventional way is as OP described it and how I did it under the headliner and down to my switch. The second way is to skip the overhead all together and tie into the wire harness under the driver's-side A-pillar down low.
UPDATE: There appears to be a third, easier and better method discovered by jamesryanb in the next posting where there is a camera circuit plug (JK1) behind the glove box! This will really simplify things.
I like the second solution of only having to go to the A-pillar due to it's shorter run and elegance but didn't find out about it until I was done with my routing. Credit for this second option goes to Toxarch and you can follow this link to see his post on this second method. This new method he discovered is about half the way down and starts with some red text:
http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/aud...html#post20059
Back to the "conventional" way, here's how I did it
(although were I to do it again I would go with the behind the glove box camera connector method which I knew nothing about at the time). As I mentioned before I used a 4-conductor integrated wire. It's very easy to remove the passenger-side A-Pillar (two 10mm bolts in the handle) and drop the wires down adjacent to the side-curtain air bag:
This is what the overhead wire routing looks like:
As can be seen above I have already removed the 4 video signal pins from the overhead monitor connector that correspond to the wire colors shown in the schematic and described by OP. I clipped these wires back leaving about 2” pigtails on the pins so I could use these same pins in the Mic connector (K7) later. I then attached each of my 4 new wires to the clipped original wires in the overhead with butt splices as shown:
On the other end of my 4-conductor wire behind the Nav head unit, I spliced the pigtail ends with connector pins originally cut from the monitor harness to each wire corresponding to the overhead color splicing just done:
If I were to do it again I would have soldered these particular pin leads instead of using the butt crimp connectors behind the Nav because the splice connectors take up a lot of real estate and crowd each other on the back side of the Mic K7 connector. I inserted these 4 re-connected pins into the new K7 Mic connector per the Toyota schematic in pins 21 through 24 as shown:
The above photo also shows the microphone pins moved over from the K3 connector per Toyota's instructions.
Next I needed a reverse sensor wire to connect to the new K6 speed/reverse connector, routed through my new SPDT anytime rear camera switch:
So I spooled out a few feet of blue wire for the reverse signal and followed the Toyota installation instructions to tie into the passenger’s-side kick panel connector AJ2, Pin 3 reverse wire with an inline tap and covered it with foam:
I normally hate inline taps and have not used one in years but this situation of tying into the AJ2 reverse wire just begged for one so I swallowed by principles and scrounged one up and used it to tap into the OEM harness. I then routed the reverse wire toward the Nav unit as directed in the Toyota instructions.
Enroute to the Nav unit I routed this blue reverse wire to the anytime camera switch (the aforementioned SPDT Radio shack switch). I won’t show the switch installation here because there has been a whole thread on this sort of mod started by pedro66. Here’s a link to one of my posts in that thread showing the rest of what I did with respect to the anytime switch:
DIY: OEM Backup Camera Install With Auto Anytime Camera
This switched reverse signal is routed into Pin 5 of the new K6 reverse/speed connector procured with the Nav unit. Note that the K6 connector is usually gray colored but mine was white for some reason. In the following picture of the K6 connector the reverse signal would be spliced into the white wire on the right (pin 5):
The other two wires are for parking brake (purple pin 1) and speed signal (black center pin 3). Your wire colors may vary but the pin position will not.
I didn't connect the purple parking brake wire (pin 1) to anything as it was not needed in my truck as I don't have a rear seat entertainment system (RSE).
I attached the center black wire of the K6 connector to the common side of another SPDT switch (exactly the same type the backup camera switch shown above). Then I connected the factory speed sensor wire in the OEM harness to one of the outer switch inputs. Wileetundra's speed pulse generator was attached to the other switch post and I followed Wilee's included instructions to a tee. See his navigation SPG thread for more information on installation.
DIY: All NAV Functions All The Time without Firmware Downgrade!
I installed the SPG under the glove box near the cabin fan on top of an unused plastic electrical connector with two tie wraps. I also soldered on a 3-pin computer fan power connector to the leads so the SPG could be removed and replaced easily. Note: When using 3-pin computer fan connectors make sure the factory assembled the wires to the pins with solder. Some cheapo connectors rely on the heat shrink to hold the wire to the connector. That is not an acceptable configuration for a mobile / vibration environment.
I made up a wire harness with the opposite 3-pin fan connector to give power, ground to the SPG and new pulse singal to SPDT speed circuit switch for Nav. Again all covered by wileetundra.
Here's what the computer fan connector plugs look like when assembled:
And here is a view of the switch for the SPG:
My Nav unit kit did not come with the sheetmetal GPS antenna mount antenna used under the dash on the center heater duct the way the directions show. So I ended up fabricating my own from some flat steel sheet. I started by mocking up the bracket with a piece of cardboard cut to and bent to fit in the OEM location:
I then traced the flattened cardboard template onto the sheet steel and marked the bend line:
Then I used a plasma cutter to cut out the pattern and bent the sheet in a vise. I also used a bench belt sander to radius the edges and clean up the plasma cut:
I used 3M heavy-duty adhesive tape on the underside of the upper flange the same way the OEM bracket does. Here's the final result:
The two holes were used to attach bracket to side of air duct with sheetmetal screws per the install guides first mentioned at the beginning of this post.
In reality a piece of pre-bent sheetmetal flashing found at your local big-box home improvement retailer would have worked for the antenna mount; I gravitate toward building things.
The one loose item that has to be installed is a short harness that connects the Nav unit to the Aux Input port on the front of the dashboard. Here is what that harness looks like as I received it from my eBay seller:
The blue plug goes into the Nav head unit and the white connector plugs into the front panel Aux jack replacing the original. While the aux input is not necessary for the overall system to work, I think it's mandatory to give an OEM part install the same functionality as the factory intended. Plus I never know when I might want to plug in an external audio source. I know there is another type of plug than the one shown above that is a "Y" as mentioned in the nav installation instructions. I was told the "Y" harness was a Canadian part and the one like above is the US model. I don't know if that's true but they both function the same. The direct type as shown above bypasses the original vehicle harness integration and just goes direct to the Aux port.
At this point it was just a matter of plugging in the Nav head unit to the original harness plugs (minus the K9 which is not used on the Nav) and the new harness plugs (K6, K7, Aux Input, GPS antenna etc..) and then installing the unit into the dash. I also installed the SPG switch and anytime reverse camera switch at the same time into the A/C console on each side of th Aux port & glass breakage sensor. The switch installation was covered in the above anytime thread link.
I reassembled the glove box and other interior items in reverse order of the instructions and here is the final result:
The switch on the left is for wileetundra's SPG for on-the-go Nav programming, and the one on the right is for anytime reverse camera activation.
Re: Instructions for installing an OEM Nav in your '07 w/JBL
Linear Mode
