PROPOSED GROUP BUY: S & S headers group buy

[Imdone]

SO The day after and the answer to the questions.

Bomber, Wires, with the lengths that I am giving S & S to make them you will be able to run them above the heat shields so they do not touch anything and are completely out of the way, Very nice of me huh...

Bung holes,???? Not sure what you mean, if you are speaking of the wire connections they lined up perfectly, even after several wire length changes. Snapped right in.

Bomber and Deepstealth, with regard to the finish, I did not see anywhere on these that the coating did not cover the steel. The coating was all over the entire set of headers and Y-pipe. I can also say that it can take a scratch pretty well too. We bumped them a couple times and the coating did not peel, chip or come off the headers. Good question.



I have posted Rgerdes Speed and HP TQ tests.

I HAVE ALSO posted the after 80 mile install of the headers. I will continue to test up to 1000 miles and will keep posting.

The towing test will not take place until at least next weekend, OH YEAH and stupid me forgot to save the stock towing run before I removed the G-Tech from my truck so I lost the run. I do have some information that I will be posting about when down shifting occurred and altituedes and lengths but I DO NOT have a G-Tech stock run. I can't believe I lost this one, trust me I was not very happy when I realised this.


There is an increase in TQ and HP and the truck was heavier by a 1/4 tank of gas. I estimated the weight of the gas and added the weight to the vehicle as you will see.

For those that want my opinion of the headers I would say they are cool and show some good signs immediately. Remeber that I have 17" x 9" wheels and 285 70 17 tires that have taxed the power of this truck since they were put on. It feels like I have stock tires again. Noticible power increases at lower and upper end.

I took the truck up the same hill that I did the boat test that I lost, Dammit, and instead of the truck shifting into 3rd as it usually does, it only shifted to the half gear between overdrive and 3rd. It was a 2500 rpm and increased speed from 60 mph which it has never done on this hill. I have not seen an increase from speeds unless it was in 3rd gear and at 3000 rpm. I was impressed just by this.

I will still be doing more testing, but so far I think they are doing a pretty good job.

Oh yeah and they definitely make the truck sound different. The idle and crusing rpms are nice and quiet but the revs give and nice growl. Ask Rgerdes he's heard them.

[Imdone]

PHOTOS....

I have put photos up for the exhaust flange - Donut - gasket this includes part #s for Fel-Pro and NEA.

The photo and part # for the toyota manifold gasket.

The photo of the copper collector gasket with part#

[DevinSixtySeven]

performance crew, what's your interpretation of the data?

btw, that's not wot data yet is it?

[dupont24]

Imdone, how bout some good installed shoots before you get em all dirty! 8 hours seems kinda long, was it that hard, I can do a manifold in about an hour and a half.

[tremo]

Most of my tips for installing JBA headers would also pertain here:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...252#post143252

For some part numbers and a consolidation of other helpful hints, check out:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...1&postcount=26

Highlights
- Exhaust Manifold Gaskets, Toyota Part #17173-50021: $13.98 each x 2

- Replacement locking manifold nuts if you decide to retain the studs and NOT use the bolts provided; Toyota Part #90179-10070 $1.51 each x 16 (8 per side)

Anyone know what the flange size is on the S&S vs. the JBA's? I seem to recall the JBA's had a thicker flange size? If so, then I would imagine you could retains the factory studs and simply replace the nuts. However, if you do decide to remove the studs, member Drhrsh said:

". I used a 9/32- 1/4" drive socket for removal of the studs. It needs to be a 12 point socket, and will fit if lightly tapped on with a hammer. Made stud removal a snap! A metric size may work, but all my sockets are 6 point and wouldn't fit."

Imdone, re:

"Bung holes,???? Not sure what you mean, if you are speaking of the wire connections they lined up perfectly, even after several wire length changes. Snapped right in."

Bomber is referring to the O2 sensor holes. (Not sure why, but they're called "bung holes"!) At any rate, he had some problems with SS Autochrome Headers not aligning the O2 bung hole on the passenger side correctly which made the sensor too close to the tranny. So, I guess we can infer from your reply that this is not an issue...

Hope all of this helps.

Jim.

[Imdone]

Originally Posted by DeepStealth

btw, that's not wot data yet is it?

No its not. I did not have my foot on the floor with the S & S headers yet. I reved it up a little but not like I was able to do with the stock test so the test is a little skewed for now.

another hundred miles and a second test will be done.

[Imdone]

Originally Posted by rsvees

Imdone, how bout some good installed shoots before you get em all dirty! 8 hours seems kinda long, was it that hard, I can do a manifold in about an hour and a half.

rsvees, like I said in the posts the more people that do the install and the more people that post information on the forum for tricks the time will decrease.

I was the first one and I did not have an instruction sheet so all the things that I ran into you will not.

With removing the head bolts first and not trying to get the headers on with them still in the heads that will save you an hour by itself. Plus I had to detemine what needed to be removed by trial and error.

Also don't forget it will not be just you doing the headers alone because you can not get the headers in from the top and your arm is not long enough to hold them in place and try to thread a bolt and hold a gasket, it takes 2.

At the same time I dont want to say it will only take you 4 hours and it takes 6 then you are pissed at me. I figure if you finish early, you can brag that it only took you xxx amount of time and you look like this

See what I am getting at???


Installed pics are coming, give me some time fellas I gotta work too.

I should get them up in the next day, maybe if I am feeling ambitious I will get them up today.

[Imdone]

Originally Posted by tremo

Most of my tips for installing JBA headers would also pertain here:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...252#post143252

For some part numbers and a consolidation of other helpful hints, check out:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...1&postcount=26

Highlights
- Exhaust Manifold Gaskets, Toyota Part #17173-50021: $13.98 each x 2

- Replacement locking manifold nuts if you decide to retain the studs and NOT use the bolts provided; Toyota Part #90179-10070 $1.51 each x 16 (8 per side)

Anyone know what the flange size is on the S&S vs. the JBA's? I seem to recall the JBA's had a thicker flange size? If so, then I would imagine you could retains the factory studs and simply replace the nuts. However, if you do decide to remove the studs, member Drhrsh said:

". I used a 9/32- 1/4" drive socket for removal of the studs. It needs to be a 12 point socket, and will fit if lightly tapped on with a hammer. Made stud removal a snap! A metric size may work, but all my sockets are 6 point and wouldn't fit."

Imdone, re:

"Bung holes,???? Not sure what you mean, if you are speaking of the wire connections they lined up perfectly, even after several wire length changes. Snapped right in."

Bomber is referring to the O2 sensor holes. (Not sure why, but they're called "bung holes"!) At any rate, he had some problems with SS Autochrome Headers not aligning the O2 bung hole on the passenger side correctly which made the sensor too close to the tranny. So, I guess we can infer from your reply that this is not an issue...

Hope all of this helps.

Jim.

The flange on the manifold end of the headers is 5/16".



I think we used a 12 point 9/32 socket as well. The bolts should not be in there that tight. We didn't even use a hammer we just pushed.




Everything alligned just fine. I did not use wires that were given by S & S though, I used wire plugs that Rgerdes got directly from Toyota. This could change but I do not think it will.

[Imdone]

I spoke w/Loren today. I advised him of the little things that needed to be done. He is addressing. This should not hold up shipping any of the sets once the wires are finished.

I don't know if I posted this before or not but there is a change in the wires. You will only have 3 wire extensions. Drivers front, drivers rear, and passenger front. I am having Loren make them long enough so they can be slid above the heat shields and will be completely out of the way.

After 100 miles no problems, knock on wood, I will keep posting and I will be checking this thread daily for questions. Photos are going to be posted tonight of them installed on the truck.

[Imdone]

The after install photos have been uploaded. Check them out in my photos.

There are a ton of photos in there check them all out.

[DevinSixtySeven]

...i now have this wierd desire to flip the monitor over or something

[Imdone]