The unit fits both 2004 & 2005 Double cabs. No cutting or mods needed to install. There is a wire harness that has detailed instructions for the installations. I will try to post it up for you so you can have an idea of what entailed.
Matt
I have already posted detailed instructions on how to add this to aftermarket head units. See here Important - DC Subwoofer Upgrade Info and go to my longest post. The only thing I forgot was the connectors you need are the small female pin type to mate to the sub. I also had nhparrot upload the Toyota instructions for both the JBL and non-JBL systems. See here for non-JBL http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...ad.php?t=37140 and here for JBL http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...ad.php?t=37138 . The part numbers my not be the same as you receive if you buy from TRDSource because the part numbers in the instructions are for the SET (South East Toyota) district but the instructions are correct.
The link I provided is a wealth of information about this sub. I have been in contact with the manufacturers rep for Bazooka, and he is coming here next week to hear my proposed improvements to the original design. I found a potential problem that was evident in mine right out of the box, but it is an easy fix even if you have to do it yourself. You can read more about this in the thread I posted the link to.
I do have this sub in my truck and a picture of it can be found in my gallery.
Phil
__________________ 05 White TRD D-Cab, SR5, Limited slip, 20" TRD Enkei's with BFGoodrich G-Force TA NT, All weather guard package, factory rear privacy glass with matching front door tint, Toyota bedliner plus bed mat, Toyota/A.R.E. color keyed tonneau cover, overhead console with temp, compass and Homelink, Toyota/Gentex electrochromatic mirror, keyless, mats, TRD aluminum front skidplate, Toyota/Bazooka VSE 100 watt self-powered subwoofer, TRD stainless exhaust tip, door sill guards, Custom TRD matched pin striping with Toyota logos, painted calipers with TRD letters, TRD billet aluminum third brake light cover with true TRD letters, Pioneer AVIC D-3 GPS head unit with IP Buss controlled Pioneer XM radio tuner and iPod interface, Pac remote(maintains steering wheel controls) Polk Audio speakers DB675 two way in rear, Polk DB6750 components in front powered by a Polk C400.4 4 channel amp, seperate amped Aura Pro Bass Shakers under each front seat, Bazooka EL series 8" 100 watt self-powered subwoofer with Polk Momo driver with quick disconnect, Memphis tweeters in rear, back-up sensors (very handy), foglight mod, Sylvania Silverstars in both head and fog lights, added rear halogen back-up lighting, BellTech 6700 1" lowering shackles, Hellwig anti-sway bar, Magnaflow 14586 Stainless muffler, Wheelskins two-tone leather steering wheel cover, Ventvisors for side and rear windows, custom lower grill insert, Hoppy tailgate spring. More to come!
Thanks Phil. You seem to have a wealth of knowledge on this sub. A couple members have asked about aftermarket units and if the VSE sub will work. I am not too sure if it will, it seems like the amp for JBL / non JBL is the factor here not the head unit. What do you think?
Thanks Phil. You seem to have a wealth of knowledge on this sub. A couple members have asked about aftermarket units and if the VSE sub will work. I am not too sure if it will, it seems like the amp for JBL / non JBL is the factor here not the head unit. What do you think?
Matt
Yup, it works just fine with an aftermarket unit. I have explained this very well in the longest post I made in the thread I have linked. I even explain which wires you need and where they hook to the sub.
To make it easy for you guys considering buying this sub, please go and read the thread I posted here Important - DC Subwoofer Upgrade Info . I know it's long, but there is a LOT of info about this sub including the actual wiring for an aftermarket head unit.
If you have a factory head unit that says JBL on the front, you need the sub and the JBL harness.
If you have a factory head unit that does NOT say JBL, then you need the sub and the non-JBL harness.
If you have an aftermarket head unit, you will need to run seven wires from the sub. They are: 1.left speaker level + 2.right speaker level +, 3.left speaker level - 4. right speaker level - 5.positive to battery hot 6.remote amp turn-on(or accessory) and 7. ground. Again, I explain this in detail here Important - DC Subwoofer Upgrade Info
I think the only shortcoming of this for those of us with the aftermarket head units is there is no line level inputs, you have to use speaker level. I will be meeting with the Bazooka manufacturers rep about this and other issues explained in my posts next week to see if I can get them and some other improvements added to later releases.
Phil
__________________ 05 White TRD D-Cab, SR5, Limited slip, 20" TRD Enkei's with BFGoodrich G-Force TA NT, All weather guard package, factory rear privacy glass with matching front door tint, Toyota bedliner plus bed mat, Toyota/A.R.E. color keyed tonneau cover, overhead console with temp, compass and Homelink, Toyota/Gentex electrochromatic mirror, keyless, mats, TRD aluminum front skidplate, Toyota/Bazooka VSE 100 watt self-powered subwoofer, TRD stainless exhaust tip, door sill guards, Custom TRD matched pin striping with Toyota logos, painted calipers with TRD letters, TRD billet aluminum third brake light cover with true TRD letters, Pioneer AVIC D-3 GPS head unit with IP Buss controlled Pioneer XM radio tuner and iPod interface, Pac remote(maintains steering wheel controls) Polk Audio speakers DB675 two way in rear, Polk DB6750 components in front powered by a Polk C400.4 4 channel amp, seperate amped Aura Pro Bass Shakers under each front seat, Bazooka EL series 8" 100 watt self-powered subwoofer with Polk Momo driver with quick disconnect, Memphis tweeters in rear, back-up sensors (very handy), foglight mod, Sylvania Silverstars in both head and fog lights, added rear halogen back-up lighting, BellTech 6700 1" lowering shackles, Hellwig anti-sway bar, Magnaflow 14586 Stainless muffler, Wheelskins two-tone leather steering wheel cover, Ventvisors for side and rear windows, custom lower grill insert, Hoppy tailgate spring. More to come!
Yup, it works just fine with an aftermarket unit. I have explained this very well in the longest post I made in the thread I have linked. I even explain which wires you need and where they hook to the sub.
To make it easy for you guys considering buying this sub, please go and read the thread I posted here Important - DC Subwoofer Upgrade Info . I know it's long, but there is a LOT of info about this sub including the actual wiring for an aftermarket head unit.
If you have a factory head unit that says JBL on the front, you need the sub and the JBL harness.
If you have a factory head unit that does NOT say JBL, then you need the sub and the non-JBL harness.
If you have an aftermarket head unit, you will need to run seven wires from the sub. They are: 1.left speaker level + 2.right speaker level +, 3.left speaker level - 4. right speaker level - 5.positive to battery hot 6.remote amp turn-on(or accessory) and 7. ground. Again, I explain this in detail here Important - DC Subwoofer Upgrade Info
I think the only shortcoming of this for those of us with the aftermarket head units is there is no line level inputs, you have to use speaker level. I will be meeting with the Bazooka manufacturers rep about this and other issues explained in my posts next week to see if I can get them and some other improvements added to later releases.
Phil
Phil,
Thanks for the information. I appreciate your help. You Da MAN!
Matt
Please DO NOT vote "Yes" in this poll unless you intend on actually ordering a Factory Bass Tube for the Tundra Double Cab from Matt at the Group Buy price.
I officially can not participate in group buy. I have some other finaicial obligations that just came apparent to me. AND YES, I CAN READ THE STATEMENT THAT WAS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BUY. SOMETIMES PRIORITIES ARISE. I did not see any way to reverse vote. Sorry for the troubles.
Hey guys!! I picked up the Factory Tube and wiring harness today from Hoover Toyota in B'ham, AL.
The parts guy said that he was only showing 1 harness available in the SET region. I lucked out!! I will take lots of photos on the install. Also, I have an aftermarket headunit, so this should be fun
You can get the harness and tube for $313 including tax, so the group buy will save you a few bucks. Especially if you are a paying member.
It's me again!! I have added the pictures from my install today to my photo gallery. I have an aftermarket stereo and amp, so there was no need to run the wires all the way back to the head unit. I just had to run them to the amp. That's why I cut the wiring harness. Also, running the wire under the carpet was a challenge so I removed the rear seat to make the job easier. As you can see, I have my amp installed in my center console...along with my XM radio module and wiring underneath. As for my stereo, I have the option to make the rear outputs a dedicated sub output, so I attached the harness to the rear outputs. This allows me to really tweak the sounds going to the sub.
Now, as for my impression of the installed box. I am very happy!!! It's not a 10" chest beater, but it sure fills in the low end as to not wake the neighbors or sound like a teenager. If you already have an amp like I do, it's important not to send to much power to the sub. I did this at first and it sounded like crap!!! Lot's of vibrations and dead base. Once I turned my gain all the way down, it allowed the 100W amp that comes with the sub to do the pushing. There are still some vibrations from time to time but if you have your system setup right, you won't hear them. I recommend that everyone go get one of these. It sure beats having a 10" sub sitting in your floor board behind the seat.
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