Just put in my order with Chirs at Raceshopper for a set of front rotors and 2 set of pads plus a liter of super blue fluid.
Is it worth getting the super blue fluid even though are vehicles aren't "racing" material.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Burton
I asked a Toyota tech (THANKS, Victor...!!!) on the site about which size is needed for the Tundras/Sequoias... Here's his reply...
The new TSB calipers and 03 and later-
They are all 7MM =tundras and sequoias
They use a 10mm wrench to open them, but have 7mm thread sizes
The 01 sequoia i checked has the same 7mm size, so i would say probably they were all 7mm threads with a 10mm wrench to open them
The 05 tundra is also the same
hope this helps
victor
So how many speedbleeders would I need, just 4 for the Sequoia?
Is it worth getting the super blue fluid even though are vehicles aren't "racing" material.
Let's just say that w/the Ate blue or amber brake fluid, you'll be able to extend your brake fluid changes to at least 2-3 years and feel comfortable in the fact that the fluid won't be compromised..... Alternating between flavors makes it easier and more cost effecient to change out the fluid. (Like we can thank NASA for all sorts of products, the racing ckts produce some of the best designs for us... )
Quote:
Originally Posted by PagalDesi4Life
So how many speedbleeders would I need, just 4 for the Sequoia?
I'd go with 2 sets of 7mm threads...... I'll make sure that Ed and crew follow up on the sizing for all trucks w/Speed Bleeder anyway.....
Let's just say that w/the Ate blue or amber brake fluid, you'll be able to extend your brake fluid changes to at least 2-3 years and feel comfortable in the fact that the fluid won't be compromised..... Alternating between flavors makes it easier and more cost effecient to change out the fluid. (Like we can thank NASA for all sorts of products, the racing ckts produce some of the best designs for us... )
I'd go with 2 sets of 7mm threads...... I'll make sure that Ed and crew follow up on the sizing for all trucks w/Speed Bleeder anyway.....
Cool thanks! One more question, is this GB only limited to Toyota models or can we order rotors and pads for non Toyota vehicles as well and still get in on the GB discount?
Cool thanks! One more question, is this GB only limited to Toyota models or can we order rotors and pads for non Toyota vehicles as well and still get in on the GB discount?
If it's on THIS LIST then ask them for a GB discounted price.... I don't see why not..... The more the better for Raceshopper...
Congratulations, Gentlemen...!!! We Have Made Our Quota......
We hit 20 sets of rotors and 22 sets of pads ordered last night.....
Our orders will start to ship Monday morning.......
If anyone wants to add to their order please call it it soon.....
Edwin @ Raceshopper wants to show his gratitude to us by extending the buy window until this Monday, the 25th @ 8:00pm. His '05 retail pricing will take effect after this cut off date for us..... So if anyone is still "thinking" about getting top rated rotors and/or pads @ great discounted prices, now is the time to do it....!!!
Congratulations Gentlemen...!!! We Have Made Our Quota......
We hit 20 sets of rotors and 22 sets of pads ordered last night.....
Our orders will start to ship Monday morning.......
If anyone wants to add to their order please call it it soon.....
Edwin @ Raceshopper wants to show his gratitude to us by extending the buy window until this Monday, the 25th @ 8:00pm. His '05 retail pricing will take effect after this cut off date for us..... So if anyone is still "thinking" about getting rotors and/or pads @ a great discounted prices now is the time to do it....!!!
Thanks, Guys.....!!! JB
Sweet, I'm definetly going to chime in on this GB now! Just wondering though- how many of ya'all ordered the diamond slotted rotors?
I called the dealership to see if the tsb was done on my truck, the lady on the other end was not helpful at all, but she could find my truck anywhere in their database. So I think I'll go with the non-TSB stuff.
Replacing the rotors and the pads means the brakes MUST be bled? I've never done a brake job before, this will be my first.
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Quote:
It is better to remain silent and have people wonder if you are an idiot, rather than to open your mouth and prove to everyone you are an idiot beyond all doubt. ~ Jim Rogers
I called the dealership to see if the tsb was done on my truck, the lady on the other end was not helpful at all, but she could find my truck anywhere in their database. So I think I'll go with the non-TSB stuff.
Cool... Go w/the Hawk pads.... The rotors will fit no matter if you did the TSB or not....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toasted Coastie
Replacing the rotors and the pads means the brakes MUST be bled? I've never done a brake job before, this will be my first.
I don't think so but KLS can chime in here.... I believe the calipers can be taken off the rotor w/o disconnecting the brake lines and the rotors are easy to swap out...
For those that have not done it themselves or had it done.....you NEED to flush the fluid every couple years at least! I'm not hard on brakes with my Corolla, first pad change was 90k and the second at 175k. I did have the fluid flushed a couple times years back but it's been about 6-7 since I last did it. Last weekend I bought the Motive Pressure bleeder and some ATE blue. When I went to flush the Corolla I suctioned the old fluid from Master cylinder first as they recommend and there was A LOT of sludge left in the bottom and sides. I actually used some new Castrol Fluid first and filled the reservoir then suctioned, pumped back in, resuctioned and disposed of fluid, replaced with new clean fluid and did it a bunch of times around the master cylinder until it was clean. I then refilled again with the Castrol and pressure bled the brakes. THANK GOD the bleeders weren't frozen (I did spray Kroil on them a couple days planning for it) All I can say is that the brownish sludge that came out that was supposed to be brake fluid was DISGUSTING!!!!! It took about 1.5 liters of Castrol to get truly clear between all 4 corners. After that was done I drove the car a day or two and did another full flush with the ATE Blue. It was REAL EASY to see when it made it's way through.
I will NOT repeat this poor maintenance with the Sequoia after seeing this. To address some of Toasted Coasties question. You "should" be able to install new rotors/pads with out having to bleed. Most shops and other brake places recommend opening the bleeders when you push the pistons back in. This prevents you from forcing the possibly contaminated fluid back up the line and also not putting reverse pressure on any "cupped" seals.
The Motive Bleeder makes bleeding easy. I bought mine from http://www.trackhaus.com/ and received it in 2 days via UPS ground. I would never have attempted the fluid flush if I had to get somebody to pump and hold. The labor savings paid for the Bleeder and fluid. Bleeder plus 4 liters of ATE fluid with shipping was $100. All the places I've found locally want about $80 for a full flush (which normally only takes about 1 liter of brake fluid).
Maybe it's a good thing to have to change pads every 20K or so because at least if you do it the "correct" way you'll be forced to flush some fluid through when you bleed them. Mine was 7 years because the pads lasted that long. It was one of those why play with what is working good. Now I know why!
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