Received my switch and housing today. Went on quite a safari to locate pins. Took the switch and housing to NAPA, PEP Boys, local dealer, two stereo install shops and 2 auto elect shops with no luck. A mech at the dealer had 4 used ones but the attached wires are a very small guage.
Received my switch and housing today. Went on quite a safari to locate pins. Took the switch and housing to NAPA, PEP Boys, local dealer, two stereo install shops and 2 auto elect shops with no luck. A mech at the dealer had 4 used ones but the attached wires are a very small guage.
Any ideas out there where to locate pins?
Not sure on where to get the pins. I think a good electronics shop (not Radio Shack) may have something close. Marvac Dow Electronics might have what you are looking for if they have one close to you.
Wired the slider up today. Wiring was INCREDIBLY easy thanks to a solid product, decent instructions and the additional instructions for wiring the OEM switch (thanks to Bill, wkl2546).
I like the fact that CRL taped and loomed the wires (just like OEM wiring). Most products are bare wire and leave you to do the taping and loom or it is a matter of time before a wire gets chaffed or cut and all kinds of problems are exposed. The provided wiring was the perfect length, and allowed for a little service loop (ALWAYS a good thing).
I had to fab a bracket to secure the motor because I have some sound deadening on the back wall and the double sided tape on the motor housing couldn't stick to it well enough to give the added stability needed. It looks like it would work great on a clean surface though.
One thing I did notice was that when I first opened and closed the window, I heard a nasty glass on glass crunching sound. I opened the window and checked the window track and noticed some small bits of broken glass in the track (probably happened at the factory). Vacumed it out and put some silicone on a Q-Tip to lube the track. Worked like a charm and VERY quite and smooth operation.
This window operates like a piece of OEM equipment. It is an AWESOME upgrade. For those of you waiting for a review, I give this MOD:
10/10 For quality
8/10 For ease of installation
10/10 For looks
10/10 For expected reliability
Overall Score: 9.5 out of 10
This is just my two cents, but I am sure that other Slider owners will concur.
BTW A cool future mod would be to add a motion sensor to activate the window. That way you could leave the window open, and when some crook tried to steal anything out of your ride they would get their arm cut off (that slider is STRONG!)
Looking to buy an OEM back window if someone gets it out without breaking it or messing up the window seal, for a decent price. I found one here by me for $175 at a junkyard, if anyone can beat that price. I am in PA. Let me know, thanks.
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2007 Tundra 5.7 4x4 SR5 TRD Offroad Package
3" Toytec Lift with Add-a-Leaf
305/65-18 BFG A/T KO
5% Tinted Windows
Truxedo Truxsport Tonneau Cover
Westin Chrome Bull Bar
Looking to buy an OEM back window if someone gets it out without breaking it or messing up the window seal, for a decent price. I found one here by me for $175 at a junkyard, if anyone can beat that price. I am in PA. Let me know, thanks.
Hey,
How 'bout asking if Rob @ Truckin' In Style can discount the CRL manual slider for the Tundras..?? His retail price is approx $178.00 plus shipping.... JB SLIDER
I got mine wired in today also. Wiring is a breeze with the Toyota switch from trdsource and instructions from WKL2546. Thanks to both! Regarding that raised shim in the center of the top of the CRLaurence slider, my installer had to trim it down some to make the window even come close to fitting tightly. Also the seat spring on the back of the the driver's side hit the drive motor slightly. I had to do the "Back Seat Mod" in order to obtain clearance. Been wanting to do that anyway and this was the perfect excuse. I also had to fab a clamp to hold the motor against the back wall. Mine is stock and the tape still would not hold it. Works like a factory installed window when I mash on the switch though! Smooth and quiet. It is a very worthwhile mod. Even the wife was impressed.
One annoying thing was that double sided tape that holds the top edge of the plastic curtain behind the seat. It totally destroyed itself when I removed it. (Don't have to, I guess, but I did) If you need to replace the tape I found a suitable product at Grainger. Grainger Part Number is 6JT55, $7.47. It is 1" wide and 36 YDS long. Enough to do several thousand Tundras! It worked quite well.
Hey guys,
I have my sliding window in and working. Very smooth!
Installing the power motor assembly was a no brainer. I am using the switch from the kit for now. My switch and connector went on back order. We did a tracking on it and it should be here before the end of the month. Thanks for the heads up on the connector with no pins. I didn't think of that and I should have known . I work for Toyota!!! I will get right on it and get the part number and order some pins too
Rick
Thanks for putting this group buy together. The slider was installed by a local auto glass shop for$70. For the TRD switch, I managed to find the pins and spade connectors at Radio Shack. Made up my own wires and with a little persuasion got the plug to mate to the TRD switch. Made sure I tested each connection before I buttoned up the interior. The whole process took about 6-7 hours. I did run into the same problems other members have had - broken glass, and seat back spring hitting the drive unit.
Thanks for putting this group buy together. The slider was installed by a local auto glass shop for$70. For the TRD switch, I managed to find the pins and spade connectors at Radio Shack. Made up my own wires and with a little persuasion got the plug to mate to the TRD switch. Made sure I tested each connection before I buttoned up the interior. The whole process took about 6-7 hours. I did run into the same problems other members have had - broken glass, and seat back spring hitting the drive unit.
Thanks again
My pleasure. I was glad to be able to put this together. From what I keep hearing, we got a great price. Good thing because I am one of those people that slits his wrists if he finds an item cheaper after purchasing at a more expensive location.
Sorry it took so long to get it wired up, but glad that you are pleased with the end result. So far we are batting 1000! (after install that is).
BTW I had the same problem with the motor hitting the spring. Couldn't figure out why the rear seat refused to line up right. Then I realized that I had recently put a 2000 leather seat in place of my stock 2002 cloth seat. Did the seat angle mod and all is well.
Ken
Thanks for putting this group buy together. The slider was installed by a local auto glass shop for$70. For the TRD switch, I managed to find the pins and spade connectors at Radio Shack. Made up my own wires and with a little persuasion got the plug to mate to the TRD switch. Made sure I tested each connection before I buttoned up the interior. The whole process took about 6-7 hours. I did run into the same problems other members have had - broken glass, and seat back spring hitting the drive unit.
Thanks again
Still waining on my switch! Do you have a part number for the pins and connectors from radio shack? I want to be all ready when it gets here!
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2003 Phantom Gray Pearl stepside TRD SPORT access cab, borla air filter, factory borla cat back performance dual exhaust, under rail bed liner, roll and lock bed cover (s/n 001!) skid plates, tow package, champion step boards, enkie 20" deep six rims, Fuzion ZR1 P275/45R20 low profile performance tires, TRD 3rd brake light cover, OBX sport pedals, sirius satelite radio, Custom Sports Grill, Laurence power slider, Muth signal mirrors with brake kit,Infinity 6010cs front speakers
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Still waining on my switch! Do you have a part number for the pins and connectors from radio shack? I want to be all ready when it gets here!
Radio shack? I don't think they are going to have it. You might try hitting up a local electronics store. Sometimes the stereo stores have connectors meant for stereos that can be used for other purposes (like the fog light switch mod). Did you order the connector with the switch from TRDsource? If not I would PM Matt and add it to your order. Just to be safe.
sorry I don't have the part numbers but what I bought was a plastic plug with a strip of crimp on pins. The pins have tiny barbs that hold them in the plastic plug. I tinned the wire ends with a bit of solder, pushed the wire into the pin, bent the tabs around the wire, heated the pin to make the solder stick, and pushed them into the proper holes of the OEM plug. I had to work an awl point into the plug to flatten the pin enough that the prongs on the switch would slide in and make contact with each pin. I was anal enough to use the same wire colors as the CRL harness. After I had the plug in the switch I tested the switch circuits with an multimeter using the ohm scale by putting one lead on the power wire holding the switch in the closed or open mode and putting the other lead on the power out wire (red or yellow in my case). I finished the set up with crimp on spade connectors that mated to the CRL wire harness. Just for extra precaution, I used the ohm meter to test on the whole harness as well. Hope this makes sense and helps everyone.