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HighlanderGeneral discussion forum for the Toyota Highlander and Highlander Hybrid.
This is a discussion thread titled "New Highlander Owner Silver 2008 Sport", within the Highlander forum, part of the SUV Forums category.
2008, Silver Gray Sport, Leather, Reverse Camera, Remote Start.
Bought it because Endeavor lacked rear camera, Pilot design seemed too dated and Tribeca's second row-seats were too cramped, and Volvo's XC90 (with SIPS system) was too low in MPG and high in price.
Love the passthru to third row, but wish third row seat was split...no chance for an aftermarket there.
Tried to get it with Michelins or Toyos instead of the Bridgestones, but will have to wait. Will have to wait for rubber mat set also.
This forum has already been a tremendous resource as I was able to get some kind of answer on whether using synthetic would void warranty and I look forward to participating and making some new friends.
Best,
gtrotta
Welcome to the Highlander Revolution! MUAHAHAHA!!!
I don't know too much about the o8s, but I love my 01, and I'm sure nothing's been lost between the two dates that shouldn't have been. Glad you found a good compromise in the vehicle!
I'm new here too, and it's been an awesome experience thus far. Everyone's eager to answer with valuable information and good intentions. The Mich's are an excellent choice, IMO. They look a little more rugged than the toyos usually do, and i love the rugged-van appearance, so anything to boost the 'rugged' and lower the 'van' is cool :P
Nah, I have to save my money to make the payments...no pimp wheels yet.
I actually wouldn't have minded a highlander from any year. Loved the more rugged looks of the Gen I; some of the colors, like the military green, dark blue and slate blue where awesome to boot.
Then again, my other car is a Gen I 2-door Montero, so I'm ok on the rugged looks there.
2008, This forum has already been a tremendous resource as I was able to get some kind of answer on whether using synthetic would void warranty and I look forward to participating and making some new friends.
Best,
gtrotta
Good luck. Nicely equipped for sure.
Regarding synthetics... I am one proponent of Synthetic here on TS. I guess everyone here knows this by now.
And while under warranty use the 08 maintenance guideline of 5K mile/6mos OCI's specifically. By itself, any Synthetic engine oil absolutely will not void your Toyota drivetrain warranty. Educate yourself on Syn first, then make your educated decision.
The dealer may tell yu many other ideas on this. As will Kathyrick bot.
Thank you, L -- As per the dealer, changing it at 3k from the factory dino juice to synthetic and then ever 5k afterward will keep warranty in effect. Will keep your advice in mind!
Best,
Thank you, L -- As per the dealer, changing it at 3k from the factory dino juice to synthetic and then ever 5k afterward will keep warranty in effect. Will keep your advice in mind!
I would run the factory fill for atleast 3K miles before doing the switch to either dino/syn. The break-in filter is very good and I have recently heard that the break-in oil too is made of better additives in lieu of breakin debris than the regular OTC chemistries.
I switched @ 2K miles, ran dino till 4.5K miles (till the oil light gets lit up) and then switched to full-syn PP.
When it comes to gear fluids, I will wait it out till 10K miles before switching. I switched at around 6-7K but then I have heard the break-in can take longer especially if you primarily drive highways.
Here's a photo of what a Toyota engine looks like inside after running on dino oil since Sept. 1973. Practically showroom clean inside except for a light golden (and harmless) coating of varnish. Also free of significant wear since cylinder compression is like new.
There's little profit in dino oils so that's why there aren't any websites on the internet that educate the public about how well dino oils can prevent wear and keep engines and other drivetrain components clean for many, many decades.
The break-in filter is very good and I have recently heard that the break-in oil too is made of better additives in lieu of breakin debris than the regular OTC chemistries.
I switched @ 2K miles, ran dino till 4.5K miles (till the oil light gets lit up) and then switched to full-syn PP.
When it comes to gear fluids, I will wait it out till 10K miles before switching. I switched at around 6-7K but then I have heard the break-in can take longer especially if you primarily drive highways.
Good luck.
There is no magic special break-in oil for the factory fill. That is a myth that's been floating around for many years. Much of this is OEM Hype.Customers like to hear this stuff from the Mfr.But,It is just dino oil.
It is ok to to allow a break-in with Dino. There is no proof that Syn may be better or worse than Dino oils in the breakin stage. Some will disagree with me.
Remember, complete breakin may occur up to 10k-20K depending on vehicle driving habits. The valve-train takes the longest to fully break-in.
But I generally dump my factory fill dino at 1K give or take, The initial majority of breakin has already occured(lower end of engine block...rings etc.), and the oil is really contaminated at this point with engine high amounts of assembly/build by-products. Also, alot of carbon build-up and blow-by is generated early on. UOA's show this.
Take a real close look at Breakin oil with only 1k miles under good light!
Even common sense will dictate that yu don't want to keep this initial fill beyond 1K miles! Again, some will disagree with this also.
At 1K I will refill with a high detergent premium Dino(Mobil Clean comes to mind), then go to 5K, where I make the switch to Syn (M1 of course). The factory filter may be left in place till 5K. Your choice.
I have done this regimen since the late '70's, on 8 newly purchased vehicles, with well over 2+ million miles combined, when I lost track.
Never an oil related problem on ANY of my vehicles.
My engines look as good if not better than Kathricks. And, I have never observed any varnish build up.
gtrotta, for what you pay for a test, you can just replace the oil. Six quarts of dino oil are only fifteen bucks. Personally, I'd change to dino at 2500, and start a 5000 schedule at 5k with synthetic. But whatever, as long as it gets changed. Better protction or not, syn makes starting in the winter easier for me, and the price difference is small. Syn is better, it's just a question of if the benifits are ever noticed by the end user.
gtrotta, for what you pay for a test, you can just replace the oil. Six quarts of dino oil are only fifteen bucks. Personally, I'd change to dino at 2500, and start a 5000 schedule at 5k with synthetic. But whatever, as long as it gets changed. Better protction or not, syn makes starting in the winter easier for me, and the price difference is small. Syn is better, it's just a question of if the benifits are ever noticed by the end user.
yu make a great point ,however I would want to know if the Dealer screwed me over by not using SYN when I specifically ASKED FOR IT. Or even did an OCI period.
This happens more often then yu think.
Dealers wil say sorry about the mistake...I say got ripped off is NO mistake. I don't care how it happened. But I would want to know if I actually have Syn in my engine.
New Highlander Owner Silver 2008 Sport
07 Salsa Red Pearl 5.7 DC..TRD, Leather, JBL radio.
Linear Mode
