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HighlanderGeneral discussion forum for the Toyota Highlander and Highlander Hybrid.
This is a discussion thread titled "Help with excess HL body roll", within the Highlander forum, part of the SUV Forums category.
MY 2001 base HL has too much body roll not only on corners but on eneven roads it will rock side to side. Some have even said "this car makes me seasick". I realize it has a high center of gravity, It just does not seem well planted and steady. Do you think I should look at aftermarket sway bars? I was also thinking the stock tires 16" must be contributing too. Anyone experience this or have feedback?
This is an SUV not a car so I don't know what kind of ride you are expecting. The best way to get rid of body roll is with swaybars; springs, tires, and shocks help but aren't as effective. The problem is finding a manufacturer. If you know where to find aftermarket swaybars then go ahead and get them.
If people claim that they are getting seasick, your shocks may be worn out. If you compress your suspension does it bounce back once then stop? Or does it bounce a couple times before it stops. If it bounces a couple times then the shocks are worn out.
Otherwise, I'd suggest getting a car. The Scion tC has the engine and used ones are pretty reasonable.
Last edited by asianflava; 05-09-2008 at 11:58 PM.
If your Highlander has more than 75,000 miles then you need to change the struts / shocks front and rear with new Toyota parts to maintain like new levels of high speed cornering capability and ride control. As the miles pile up, Toyotas tend to ride more softly and lean more in the corners.
However, it might be that the Highlander is simply a too softly sprung vehicle to satisfy you if you are an aggressive high speed driver. The Infiniti FX35/45 is a better choice for hurried drivers, but it doesn't absorb the bumps as well as a Highlander can.
Get a set of new struts, upper strutmountsandsprings. Check your swaybarbushings and replace as needed. Do all four corners.
Your passengers will thank you. It is time for this service interval. Problem solved. Trust me
BTW, the HL has a more lower center of gravity than most other SUV/crossovers. Most of the weight is designed and built below the belt line of the HL. This is no Ford Explorer!
LT
Last edited by LifeTech; 05-10-2008 at 07:51 AM.
Reason: spel
Thanks for the responses, so question for you...are you guys running 16 or 17 Inch wheels? I am thinking the high profile tire on the 16 is contributing...
Aspect ratio doesn't affect body roll. If anything, your sidewalls will curl under the rim. Low profile tires will prevent the tire from curling (so will increased tire pressures) but it will not change the amount of body roll.
I also wonder if Limited's or later years got a beefier suspension?
I've been told by parts people that the Limited gets some components of the Sport. Or Rather the other way around. The Ltd. existed longer than the Sport. It is not clear if it is the Sway bars only. I checked part numbers and see more than one. I have driven both models and I can almost guarrantee that the Sport gets stiffer rated Stabilizer bars F+R over the Limited. Sport is a more Flat turning Vehicle. [UAnd that could be just the Stabilizers alone doing this.[/u]
Possibly the Spring rates are higher. But I don't know what the Dealer is offering for the Sport regarding Struts. I was given more than one part number from several dealers.
If your struts are fine... I would concentrate on getting the stab. bars first and also new Stab. bar Bushings while yu are in there.
OK Great I'll price the F&R stab. bars (and bushings) for a Sport and try to find out if the springs are a different. If the springs are too soft on the base it could get pricey...I'll have the dealer inspect my shocks/struts also
Just make sure the parts for the Sport will fit your 2001. I had my rear anti-sway bar replaced about two years ago. The mount and bushing type between a 2001 V6 and I4 are different--the V6 uses an O-type, the I4 a D-type. The D-type mount/bushing is more accommodating of a thicker bar, the O-type will drive you nuts. Also, have it done on a lift if you have a V6--disengaging the bar is easy, putting on a thicker bar is almost impossible without it on one. Buy new end links too--the connection on mine was seized and had to be torched to be removed. My mechanic warned me of this beforehand, so I brought a new pair with me together with the bar and modified bushings.
I now have a 7/8" bar and the ride is more controlled when cornering, body roll is definitely less. The 18" wheels and wider, stiffer-sidewalled tires definitely contribute, I notice the difference in handling when switching to my 16" winter tires. Good luck.
__________________ 2001 Toyota Highlander V6/4WD (Millennium Silver), TSW S5 18" Wheels, Kumho Ecsta STX 255/55/R18 Tires, Addco Rear Anti Sway Bar, TRD Sports Muffler, WAAG Sportster Grille Guard, WAAG Rear Bumper Guard, Manik Taillight Guards, Molly Designs Fender Flares, Weathertech Stone & Bug Deflector, Weathertech Side Window Deflectors, Hella Optilux 1250 Fog Lamps mounted on lower bar of grille guard; operated wirelessly via Homelink buttons, Hella Yellowstar fog lamp bulbs, Toshiba HIR 9011 & 9012 headlamp bulbs, Xpel Headlamp Protectors, 3M 5% Scotchtint on rear windows.
I did notice that if yu have 4WD versus FWD that the rear Stabilizer Bar IS designed and installed differently.
Food for thought.
BTW, a lower profile tire (18" rims) along with Firmer Stab. Bars will keep things noticeably flatter on the turns. But 18" tires alone will not make any big difference.
Help with excess HL body roll
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