I tried taking a rear rotor off to begin a rear brake job on my 2002 4 cly. HL and discovered the rears have the e-brake drum combo. i planned on turning the rotors, but tugging on the rotor led me to believe there is a process for removing them. they didnt feel like they come off without me knowing a secret so to speak.
also the one bolt caliper design is cool, but the pin that caliper pivots on (i assume is a floating pin of a sort) did not "float". so when i put my new pads in the bracket to test for fit, the caliper didnt fit over the new pads- yes i properly depressed the caliper piston.
i didnt spend too much time testing things as it was hailing on me...
Wack the hub of the rear rotors with a mallet, it should free up.
I'm sure yu released the P-Brake...or the rotor will not come off. Just had to ask the obvious... some people like to use the P-brake when they jack up the Vehicle yet forget it must be released to remove the rear rotors. Remove the pins, boots and bushings. clean and relube with proper caliper lube "soap based". Any Autozone will steer yu right. Keep the rotors and New pads very clean and free of Lube/grease. This is important. Good idea to have two cans of brake parts cleaner spray available. If the rotors are giving yu a hard time coming off...get a bolt that is about 1 1/2" long and such that it will fit the 2 threaded holes on the hub of each rotor . Use a rachet and screw into hub to push out/off the rotor. That is one trick. That is why the rotor hub has these threaded holes.
Hi LT! thanks for the response! i did thump the rotor and got some movement, but it really only moved a centimeter at best, because it REALLY felt like the parking brake pads were engaged inside the drum. although i had not engaged the parking brake,so i stopped fearing that i would break something from forcing it.
what about the caliper itself? is that pivoting pin a floating piece that should move freely in my hand?
got any pictures? thanks!
I did brakes on my 2002 Highlander last December. The rears did come off which little help from a rubber mallet.
There is an adjustment for the parking brake. Perhaps yours is set a little too tight. There is a hole at the center bottom which allows you to adjust the parking brake by turning a small gear with a screwdriver.
milesprower- you are exactly correct on what i was searching for. i did a little more research today and found that hole in rotor with the removable rubber plug....when that hole is in the six oclock position alows acess to a park brake adjuster to back the tension off the pads! that was the secret i needed the answer to. thanks for dropping me a line, i really appreciate it.
lifetech i thank you too, i am gettig back in to those rear brakes his weekend and will follow the rules you laid out for happy brakes, thanks again.
I'm having the same problem with the caliper. It rotate on the top pin, but does not float back and forth to allow for new pads. I also correctly compressed the piston.
It seems that the solution provided was for the rotor problem and not the caliper problem.
Am I missing something concerning the parking brake and the caliper which allows it to float?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm about to purchase a new caliper and mounting bracket.
This is concerning the Rear passagenger side caliper. I was able to do the rear driver side brake pad replacement with no problem.
My calpier has only 1 lower bolting pin to remove the brake pads. The top pin is not a bolt, but rather a pin that the caliper rotates on the mounting bracket.
I was able to unbolt the lower pin and swing the caliper up on the bracket, exposing the brake pads. I replaced the brake pads, compressed the caliper piston and rotated the caliper back down over the brake pads. The side of the piston cleared the brake pad. The caliper on the outside of the rotor hits the brake pad (due to the change in size).
I can't get the caliper to fit over the new outside brake pad. I inspected the rear diver side and was able to float the caliper back and forth on the top pin, giving me plenty of clearence on both sides. No matter what I do I can't float the rear passenger side caliper back and forth to give me enough clearance on the outside brake pad. What is strange is that the caliper will still rotate (up and down) on the pin, but not back and forth.
I'm thinking the caliper pin is bent or something that requires replacement of the entire assembly. I'm just not sure if I am missing something else that is locking the caliper from sliding on that pin back and forth.
Probably more detail than you wanted, but hopefully that was clear this time. THANKS!!!!
To do a correct brake pad replacement yu must remove both upper AND lower pins. I believe a 14 MM socket if I remember correctly. Yu seem to believe that that only one pin can be removed ...but yu have two there that are removeable. In any event... yu are unable to get the new pads in position because the pin bolt/retainer bolt is siezed in position even though yu can swing UP the caliper. It appears yu did not consider cleaning and lubing upper and lowerpins. Once they are cleaned and lubed they will swing as well as slide...allowing the new pads to position around the rotor. A correct brake service is done in this manner.
>>>>>The simple fact that it won't slide indicates that the lubricant is dried out and must be cleaned and repacked with fresh brake caliper lube/grease. I cannot emphasize this enough as even IF yu were able to get the new pads aound the rotor ... the brakes will not operate correctly and will wear unevenly and will wear out prematurely. Do yu have a diagram of the brakes. This will explain in detail the slider pin components. There is a boot and bushing on each. Also, I believe that the upper and lower pin bolts are not interchangeable. So take note of orientation.
Yu really are so close to completing this brake job. Yu just a have a minor snag. Also ...Are your pad shims in place and correct for this vehicle. Did yu buy OE or aftermarket pads with or without new shims( anti-squeal/ noise silencers)?
LT
Last edited by LifeTech; 05-09-2009 at 09:16 AM.
Reason: spel
Thanks you. Yes if I could remove the top pin I would apply the grease. I know the top pin can be removed but it is not a bolt where you use a 14mm scoket wrench. I included a pciture of the type of caliper in the previous post. The top pin head isn't exposed but rather enclosed. This way when you remove the bottom bolt the top of the caliper should slide right off. The driver side does this. The passenger side is seized and does not slide off.
Even though I can not move it I can push back the boot a little bit. I will try what you suggest and apply grease to the part of the pin that I can see beneath the boot.
Other than that I think I have to disconnect the entire assembly and see if I can dislodge it on a work table rather than on the car.
As for the shims, yes they are in place as well as the low brake pad indicators. Since I was not able to complete the job, I left all the old pads in place. The new pads also have shims and I will apply antisqueal grease to the back when I put the new ones on.
Thanks for the tips. It was helpful. I believe I'm doing everything correctly now, just that top pin seems to be seized. Either I can dislodge it or I'll have to buy a new assembly.
I wanted to post and let everyone know how the job went. I removed the caliper and mounting bracket. Once I removed it I was able to hammer them apart and remove the seized pin (I used a good amount of loosening oil). After inspecting the caliper I saw that the gasket around the piston was torn so I decided to replace the caliper anyway. I was able to reuse the mounting bracket. Greased everything, changed the pads and bled the brakes.
One area in question is that the instructions that came with the caliper suggested readjusting the parking brake lever. I saw how to do it in the thread below, but when do you know they are adjusted correctly?
Generally, the rule of thumb is to count the clicks of the P-brake/handle or foot pedal. There is a spec. of how many clicks yu should hear before the P-brake engages securely and vehicle will not move while in Drive.
I don't recall how many clicks yu need. But I don't feel it is a major deal to do by feel . The rotor should drag very slightly if turned by hand . (wheel unmounted)
Other here may have a better explanation.
This thread should have been posted in the Brake section!!
lifetech youre right, this thread should be in the brake section! and ncroiger, interestingly enough, when i did my rear brake job. i also found the passenger rear caliper pin seized. SEIZED! i had to use a lot of PB Blaster (which is great penetrating lube) and a brass drift!! the cause of the problem? a torn boot alowed nature to have its rusty ways with that pin. new boot kit and lots of lube.
Hello All. I just want to thank everyone who posted in this thread. I to am having the same problem with the pin and boot being torn on my Highlander V6 102,000 miles. My outer right rear pad worn down to metal. The inside pad is still ok and the left rear looks like both the pads are wearing nicely. I will be replacing both the rear pads and rotors. My question is this. Should I replace the caliper or just try to replace the boot and re-grease the pin? The caliper is not seized. I was able to compress the caliper and reuse a old pad that I had lying around. Just a temp fix. One more thing does anyone know where to get the Brake indicators from? All the new pads do not come with them.. Thanks..
Rear brakes surprise on my 2002 HL
Linear Mode
