Hi guys, I need some help plzzzzz....... The problem I'm having is my steering wheel shakes very very bad only when I apply brakes at 60 miles and above, but under 59 miles they don't. So I have to tap on the brakes to drop the speed to below 59 miles in order to press and hold on to the brakes. On normal driving the steering wheel is just fine.
I did check my front brakes and they are just fine. Any idea what could cause this problem?
__________________ 08 Toyota Highlander Hybrid Limited (former ride - 05 Tundra Limited Double Cab, 4x4, TRD Pkg, Trailer Tow, Auto Dimming mirror, Factory Bed Liner, Running Boards, Bug Deflector, Sun roof):
Wife's Car :05 Prius - White, Option package 6, Glass Break Sensor, Mods: Auto door lock, Molded mud flaps, Cargo Net. Not much more you can get on it.
Oh by the way, "Batteries are included" with the Prius & Highlander Hybrids
Can also be bad tie rod ends or ball joints that set up oscillation under braking, or something simple as a bit of toe out that causes instability on braking. A good alignment shop can check front end.
Warped rotors will show up as steering wheel back and forth and vibration to a degree at all speeds. It can be truly violent when braking hard at high speeds. Can also cause pulsation in brake pedal and a pulsating tug when rolling to a stop as the pads grip more then less and repeat as rotor turns. You can't check warped rotors visually as a just .005 of an inch out of true can cause significant vibration. .010 is pretty bad.
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AVC
'02 Highlander
'03 Pilot
'01 Civic
Oh, one other thing that may be starting to show up in older high mileage highlanders is lower control arm doughnut bushings that are cracked or busted. Don't think Moog or other aftermarket bushings are available--must replace lower control arm at $175 + labor.
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AVC
'02 Highlander
'03 Pilot
'01 Civic
Warped Rotors
Tires out of balance
Tire belt problem
Strut issue
So the of the potential solutions, the free one is rotating the tires and checking if there is a difference in performance. While you're in there, check for a pattern of deposits on the rotors. As stated, you can't see warping but I've seen some rotors that were obviously the problem. Also, check that pad wear is even on the inside and outside pads.
All that is free. Based on what you see will determine what I would do next. If the tire rotation fixes the problem, you're set. If not, the condition of the tires and brakes would determine if I would get the rotors turned, get new rotors, or an alignment (or all of the above) and perhaps even new tires.
Well to help you out. This past week before 4th of July, I spend some of the days during the week giving a good BRAKE JOB MAKEOVER for my wife 2001 Toy HL. I am talking about new calipers, brake pads, and rotors on all four points. This is my second time changing the brakes on her car and last time I did was back in summer of 2005. At that time it was only brake pads that I changed. After 8-9 yrs of driving that HL here in the snowbelt state of MN, it was due for a makeover.
Here is what I encounter while changing one part at a time. First the pads, both of the inner pads of the front tires were almost wear out to the metal. As for the outer pads, it seems they could last couple more years. Rotors, it was a b!tc# taking it out due to rust for the past 8 yrs. I had to use a hammer/mallet to wack that thing out. Also, the two bolt/pin was rusted inside and so I decided to go w/ new calipers. Same story with the brakes in the rear. So, before doing the brake job my wife HL was experiencing brake warping for almost the past 2 yrs, and it was getting a bad clonking sound from the left wheel when making a left turn. The clonking sound was due to the wear out inner pads, rusted bolt/pin, and uneven surface of the inner part of the rotor. After changing all that, the HL is now running like new and brakes smoothly now. The only thing I notice while driving at 60-70 MPH on the highway is the wheel shaking, but that will be taken care of with a good wheel balancing. Hope this help.
The slider pins if cleaned and lubed with proper quantity and type will extend the inner pad life. Going many years on other wise good pads will yield the situation yu see.
even with good boot/seals at the pins ...the soap based lube goes dry and this causes uneven wear between the inner and outer pads.
That's why I tend to service the brakes between changes and lube and also redress the pads.
I get more use out of the pad set over time and miles. Also there should be no reason to replace the calipers which is quite expensive. (part wise)
My steering wheel shakes very very bad
So I have to tap on the brakes to drop the speed to below 59 miles in order to press and hold on to the brakes. On normal driving the steering wheel is just fine. 
, K&N Air Filter, 6000k HID etc...
Re: My steering wheel shakes very very bad
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