You are currently viewing our community as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our Member Supported community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos, content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
HighlanderGeneral discussion forum for the Toyota Highlander and Highlander Hybrid.
This is a discussion thread titled "Highlander Tires", within the Highlander forum, part of the SUV Forums category.
My wife pop one of the tire and the cut is about 3 inches wide. Now we're using our spare tire and have to buy a new tire for our spare tire. Anyway, my question is should we go head and buy the same size tire like the old one or buy a new different size tire? 'Cos we're planning to get all 4 new size tires next summer anyway for our Highlander. So should I just go head and get that new different size tire for our spare tire now? Also what kind and size do all your other Highlander recommand?
Vansolo....not sure if that's a good idea. Assuming that part time 4x4 behaves similarly as the Lander all-wheel,,,,when I replaced a flat tire on a 4x4 once before, even thought it was the same size, but different manufacturer, it felt like the truck was gonna explode. If any 1 tire is a different size, it will essentially rotate at a different rate than the other 3 causing excessive strain on the drive train and differential.... proceed with caution.
V: Check out the Michelin "Cross Terrain" tires. Size is 225/70-16.
Do you have a BJ's Wholesale near you ? $141.99 each. There is a flyer I just got last week for $10/tire. So $131.99 each. Much better tire that the goodyear or bridgestone OEM tires.
If the tire is a different size than the other tire on that axle, it is going to cause each side of the axle to try to spin at different speeds. This is going to make your differential very unhappy and could damage it. If nothing else, it's gonna be a rough ride as the differential will keep slipping and cutting torque to the wheels. Perhaps get a spare the same size, then try to sell it here next summer when you replace it.
Thank you everyone for your infos. I guess you guys are right so I just went and bought the same size tire for our spire tire. It's not the same brand like all my other four tires, but the same size and with still pretty good treads. Enough to last this winter in case we need to use it in an emergency. Eventually thou, we will be buying all five new tires next summer and in different size from the factory tires. Also different brand too.
Well I'm going to tell my story. My wife and I have own our 2001 Hi-Lander for 2 1/2 years now. After 46,000 miles, we bought new Michelin Cross Terrain tires for our HL this past week. Along with an alignment check for all four wheels. The reason why I went with Michelin CT tires was, because most of the HL owners I have read on the net on there postings have gone with it. They love it and I did too after driving with it.
Anyway, here's my problems. Earlier this summer our HL started swaying to the left every time you let go of your hands from the steering wheel. So one day, I was rotating the tires and I notice it was wearing off the inner part of the two front tires. Even after the rotations, it's still swaying to the left side. After 1 1/2 months later of the rotation of the tires. I took out the two front tires and check the threads. It was doing the same thing. That's why we bought new tires and got an alignment. Over the weekend, we went on a trip couple of hours out of town. On the trip, I let go of my hands from the steering wheel for couple of seconds and it sway to the left again. Sometimes, it will sway to the left and sometimes it will not. Any ideas before I take it back to the shop where I got my alignment anyone?
Here's what we learned about aligning a Tundra (and many thanks to DJ):
1) Only use a shop that has a Hunter alignment machine and CAMM display.
2) Have the shop do a 4-wheel thrust alignment. They determine the line of thrust of the rear wheels and align the fronts to that line of thrust.
3) Toyota's specs for the Tundra are too wide. You need the camber and toe at the center of the spec and the caster at the upper limit of the spec. Insist on these settings...the alignment tech has no beef, 'cuz it's within Toyota's spec.
Hope some of this info is helpful for your Highlander.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
I'd take it in for another alignment and mention what is happening. It sounds like your toe might be off a bit.
FYI, just because you had it aligned doesn't mean it was done right. I'd get a second opinion somewhere else *and* now they'll have some symptoms to work off of.
As Ken mentioned there is broad range which is factory acceptable, but doesn't mean it's right.
Another FYI. You get what you pay for (usually). I'd take it to a place that charges more toward the higher end of the spectrum.
alan
Quote:
Originally posted by Vansolo Well I'm going to tell my story. My wife and I have own our 2001 Hi-Lander for 2 1/2 years now. After 46,000 miles, we bought new Michelin Cross Terrain tires for our HL this past week. Along with an alignment check for all four wheels. The reason why I went with Michelin CT tires was, because most of the HL owners I have read on the net on there postings have gone with it. They love it and I did too after driving with it.
Anyway, here's my problems. Earlier this summer our HL started swaying to the left every time you let go of your hands from the steering wheel. So one day, I was rotating the tires and I notice it was wearing off the inner part of the two front tires. Even after the rotations, it's still swaying to the left side. After 1 1/2 months later of the rotation of the tires. I took out the two front tires and check the threads. It was doing the same thing. That's why we bought new tires and got an alignment. Over the weekend, we went on a trip couple of hours out of town. On the trip, I let go of my hands from the steering wheel for couple of seconds and it sway to the left again. Sometimes, it will sway to the left and sometimes it will not. Any ideas before I take it back to the shop where I got my alignment anyone?
Well, here is what they did on the Labor Description part of my receipt:
Four Wheel Alighment
Check Caster and Camber
Angles, Check Toe Adjustment
Set All Adjustments to Manufactures Specs on all
Four Wheels Pulls Left
Right before they took my car in, they asked me which way my car was pulling towards and I told them to the left side. Should've said I don't know, but I'm going to take it back sometimes next week. 'Cos I paid $80 for the alignment. Also I bought my tires and got the alignment done at different places.
Originally posted by Vansolo Well, here is what they did on the Labor Description part of my receipt:
Four Wheel Alighment
Check Caster and Camber
Angles, Check Toe Adjustment
Set All Adjustments to Manufactures Specs on all
Four Wheels Pulls Left
Right before they took my car in, they asked me which way my car was pulling towards and I told them to the left side. Should've said I don't know, but I'm going to take it back sometimes next week. 'Cos I paid $80 for the alignment. Also I bought my tires and got the alignment done at different places.
*DO* tell them which way it's pulling so they can adjust alignment to be in spec and resolve your issue provided it's not due to radial or tire pull. Before you bring it in for the alignment, swap only the left and right tires on the front and see if the pull is alleviated or resolved. Often once wear starts, the tires will (can) start to cause pull.
Otherwise they might just put your vehicle up and say, "Yep, it's in spec." And not do anything to your vehicle.
*Always* try to provide as much info and history to your mechanic as you can. One small detail you provide can make all the difference in the world in the long run. Often all the small pieces suddenly come together to form the big picture.
Too, before you go in, notice whether the pull is subject to road camber. They can minimize that effect too (if you tell them).
for those of you who have replaced the factory tires, can you help the rest of us by teling what tire you put on, and do you like it?
What was your Original tire mileage?
I Rotate and balance every 5-7K. Check alingnment every 50K.
Ran OEM to 41K still had some tread left; could have gone another 6-8K. However, I drive >800/week @60-90, about 30% of that in SoCal mountains and across the border in MEXICO, so I don't risk getting down near the minimum tread depth.
Replaced with FALKENS (265-60R-17) ZIEX S/TZ-01 and ran them to 99k, still had a good 8-10K left in them.
Now on 2nd set of FALKENS @153K with good tread, will replace them with ANOTHER set of FALKENS S/TZ-01 within next 2-3 months....
FALKENS are excellent street tires, O.K in rain and light rain, not so good in light snow ... but remember I'm in SoCal. Cool tread design and excellent sidewalls w/ribs to protect my rims.