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HighlanderGeneral discussion forum for the Toyota Highlander and Highlander Hybrid.
This is a discussion thread titled "Brakes Warping", within the Highlander forum, part of the SUV Forums category.
I've been hearing some stuff about the Highlander's front brakes warping. Something about when you're tightening your lug nuts on the wheels. Not to put to much presure or it will cost some some problems to your brakes. How do I identify this brake warping and what to do? 'Cos I have taken out my tire 2 to 3 times this summer, but have not notice any problems on the braking. I don't drive the car much, but my wife does. So I don't want her to get into any major accident just because of this brake problem. Anyone heard anything much about it? I heard $600 just to get it fix.
I've been hearing some stuff about the Highlander's front brakes warping. Something about when you're tightening your lug nuts on the wheels. Not to put to much presure or it will cost some some problems to your brakes. How do I identify this brake warping and what to do? 'Cos I have taken out my tire 2 to 3 times this summer, but have not notice any problems on the braking. I don't drive the car much, but my wife does. So I don't want her to get into any major accident just because of this brake problem. Anyone heard anything much about it? I heard $600 just to get it fix.
For whait is worth, Toyota has not issued any TSB's on Brakes for an model yeal Highlander.
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I've been hearing some stuff about the Highlander's front brakes warping. Something about when you're tightening your lug nuts on the wheels. Not to put to much presure or it will cost some some problems to your brakes.
Any vehicle's disc brakes can warp from this abuse. Too high and especially uneven torquing of the lug nuts can contribute to rotor warping. That is why I limit the forward torque on my impact wrench to 30-50 ft.lb. and finish the job (to 80 ft.lb.) with a manual torque wrench. The owners' manual for an Ingersoll-Rand impact wrench warns that it is not a precision torque device. Since you will never get a tire shop to do this, you can ask them to use the Torqstix torque limiting adapters when they work on your vehicle. If I don't mention this at my local shop (and look to see that they use the orange one) then they will torque them to way over 100 ft.lbs. As far as $600 to fix, that sounds like the likely dealer robbery price, but a set of rotors is pretty cheap and they are a cinch to install. - Lee
That says the orange one is for 110 ft-lbs. The yellow is 80 ft-lb.
That is true for this set, but the colors are not standardized. The set that my local shop uses, the 21mm x 80 ft.lb. stick is orange (for my Tundra) and the 19mm x 80 ft. lb. stick is light blue (my CR-V). I believe the brand that my shop has is Accutorque. My 80 ft.lb. torquestick is, as you stated, yellow. - Lee
BTW, I saw a supplier on ebay selling these individually for $15.95 plus $5 shipping. That is a few bucks better than the torquestick direct price.
Brakes, steering wheel shakes, and warping questions?
After owning the Toy Highlander for over 3 1/2 years with 60K of mileage, some wear and tears is finally catching to the old Hi-Toy. Bought brand new set of shoes last year too after the Duelers started fading away on the front. Give her the best of all shoes, Michellin Cross-Terrain. Anyway, I have rotated the new tires two time since last summer, and now break warping is my problems. My steering wheel shakes, and you can really feel the warping. What are the stuff I need to change and do to the front wheels? After changing some stuff, should I also get another wheel alignment? 'Cos I just got one last year when I bought the Michellin C/T. This is my wife's car, and would like to get this taken care off before fall starts.
First off, when you put the new shoes on, did you have the rotor's turned down or machined? If not this might explain your problem.
If you did have a rotor warping problem, you would feel the steering wheel shake only when you applied the brakes. If you have that condition, I would have the rotors inspected to see if they are thick enough after a machining and replace the pads as well.
If you have the shaking all the time, then it isn't the brakes and I would have the balance re-checked on all the tires.
If you got the alignment last year and you have less than 15,000 miles, I would say your ok, but any more than that, I would have the alignment done again.
I believe most rotor warpage is due to incorrect torquing of the lug nuts. Do you use a good torque wrench when you rotate the tires? Do you have your tire work done at a shop that sets torque by hand? For our 2004 Highlander the correct setting is 76 ft. lbs.
__________________
Jack & Linda
04 Highlander
Limited AWD
Warped brake rotors are unlikely but possible. http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm One cause could be from the lug nuts tightened unevenly or too tightly. Always watch the tire shop guys tighten with a torque wrench. Tightening with an impact wrench and allowing their torque wrench to click on the lug nuts is not good enough. You must see the nut turn before the torque wrench clicks.
As LX302 said, if you have the shakes all the time, it isn't brakes, it's balance, bent wheel, loose suspension parts, etc.
If the vehicle tracks straight with hands off the wheel, and if tire wear is normal (very slight), you don't need wheel alignment.
Ken
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Well guys, the steering wheels shakes only when you press on the brake. It's mostly noticable when you're braking at 60 MPH and above. Around 30 MPH, you won't notice it at all. At 40 to 50 MPH, it's every now and then. We bought the new tires right around this time last year at 47K miles. Last time I rotated the tires was a month ago and that's when the warping occurred about some weeks later. The first time I rotated it was back in January, and yes I did not used a torque wrench. I must of put too much torque or unevenly tighten the lug nuts on the two front tires then. Will I be able to buy a torque wrench at any auto parts store? I'm also reading the websites that KLS posted. So next week, I'll be taking the front tires off and inspect the rotors. 'Cos this is my wife's car and don't want anything to happen while driving.
Also davey60, yes I do love the Michellin C/T. The Duelers does not make the car look rugged around the tires. The C/T seems to have deeper threads and are made for Trucks. As the Duelers are more of car like tires. Thou some people who have also changed to the C/T do say that it is a little loader then the Duelers. To me, it sounds the same, but with better handlings.
I have the exact same problem with wheel shaking when braking above 50mph. Recently had the brakes checked as part of 90k mi. service- pads okay, but not sure if they checked rotors for warping. Still, this would be the first thing i've had to fix in the 96k I've driven in this vehicle.