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HighlanderGeneral discussion forum for the Toyota Highlander and Highlander Hybrid.
This is a discussion thread titled "Highlander A/C", within the Highlander forum, part of the SUV Forums category.
it almost sounds like they are just saying they made the condenser a little bigger.
condenser is supposed to change it all to a liquid before it goes to the evaporator. if its not liquid at enetreing the evap it is not good.
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say ---have you ever measured your outlet temps again?.in really hot weather? like 95 with fan on 2 and recirc and 30 MPH?
i used a metal dial thermometer that I checked in a glass of ice water .
That's the normal method for gaining sub cooling. You are correct on liquid entering the metering device (expansion valve) before the evaporator. Ice water is the method I used also before the advent of the digital thermometers.
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2004 Tundra V8 Limited Access Cab 4X4, Michelin 265/65/R17 ATX2 tires, Auto Dim Comp/Temp Mirror, Aero Turbine #2525 muffler, Access Roll Up Cover, Optima D31A battery, Multi-Vex adaptive outside mirrors, Eclipse AVN5510 Nav unit and Sirius SIR-ECL1 tuner as of 10/07 pictures in my photo gallery
If a combo of all these whizz bangs met their claims you'd have to syphon gas out of your tank every second day and sell the excess horsepower on the third????
I have an 04 Highlander. The A/C works well but not as good as my 94 Camry.
Today was the first cooler day and I did a little experiment - i ask some of you to do the same to see if my car is typical. Also your ideas if this situation is "correct".
I took a dial thermometer - $6 at a hardware store and
measured the outside air temp while driving in my neighborhood. Then I measured the air temp coming out the center dash duct. This is with recirc off (that means outside air is flowing through) and the A/C off, temp control on full cold. .
Air coming out the dash was about 7-8 degrees warmer than the outside air.
Is your car like that? You can't tell 7-8 degrees with your hand but a thermometer you can and on a hot summer day it hurts AC performance.
It sounds like your heater control valve is not closing completely. This has been a documented problem on the Sequoia and easily corrected by adjusting the control wire on the control valve (located near the driver's side firewall on a sequoia... but not sure where its located on the highlander).
While it is possible that the water control valve may be allowing some water into the plenum heating coil it is not unusual for the air coming in from the outside to gain heat from other sources. I know my Tundra does even after I adjusted the control valve. The two Maxima's we had previously would do this also. On most vehicles the outside air is brought in through a grill in front of the windshield. Some heat is gained from the engine compartment through the firewall adjacent to the cavity or plenum that the outside air will pass through on it's way to the ac/heater unit. Not sure what kind of water control the Highlander uses either but it would be the first component to check out and more than likely the easiest.
Larry
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2004 Tundra V8 Limited Access Cab 4X4, Michelin 265/65/R17 ATX2 tires, Auto Dim Comp/Temp Mirror, Aero Turbine #2525 muffler, Access Roll Up Cover, Optima D31A battery, Multi-Vex adaptive outside mirrors, Eclipse AVN5510 Nav unit and Sirius SIR-ECL1 tuner as of 10/07 pictures in my photo gallery
If a combo of all these whizz bangs met their claims you'd have to syphon gas out of your tank every second day and sell the excess horsepower on the third????
I looked under the hood and saw only the two heater hoses going from the V6 engine straight to the firewall.
That puts the control valve under the dash?
Or does the car even have one?
Some cars i have owned (one actually) tried to get by with just the air damper door - the hot water was always on- car had no water control valve - we had to add one.)
anyone know for sure where the valve is on a v6 2004 highlander?
OR IF THERE EVEN IS ONE? On edmunds forum one man says there is not one on the 04- anyone know for sure?
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