Just like to make a comment about soldering. It can certainly be done by a novice but another aspect of taking to someone who has all the right tools they can test the switch and make sure current is flowing like it should. And heck I'll like to tinker myself but for $30-$40 is money well spent in my book especially for electronics. Again I can't say enough how helpfull this forum has been.
Another home fix. Thanks so much for the heads up on this issue. Some information for those checking on this issue:
1. Will likely be diagnosable from removing the temp control knob. You should see a printed circuit board with a three-connection wire. Check to see if wires a still soldered.
2. To fix the issue (desoldering and resoldering new wire) you should have some ability to solder on a printed circuit board. The connections are easy for those who know how, but I would recommend this be something that you set as your first soldering project. If intend to do it yourself, check out some good how-to vids on soldering from YouTube and practice on some scrap boards to get your chops down.
3. There is a thin (about 15 lead) ribbon wire that connects the two internal circuit boards. You will have to pull this out of one of the board to get into the unit to do the repair work. When reassembling, remove clear plastic panel from the back to access ribbon-wire connection to reassemble. This will make sense when you are looking at the unit--also, it allows you to cleanly push the wire back into the connectors without bending it. Then glue clear panel back on.
Hello Wizzer. I know you posted your solution many years ago, but its still out there on the web helping people like me. My highlander failed in the same manner (outer two broken wires), just where you highlighted them. This time, however, there was no apparent failure of the knob. Its just mechanical fatigue - that flex harness is just too stiff. Excellent sleuthing to find the fault and many thanks! The heater is now working just like it was designed.
-Paul from New York
Thank god for forums like this AND for folks like Wizzer and all that helped me save $1100 !!!!!!!!
My wife went to our dealer to have this diag'ed and the service consultant had the nerve to tell her that this has never been an issue, pretty much lied through his teeth.
Anyway, THANKS so much to all the people that made this information available.
p.s. Shame on you Toyota, this sort of thing should NEVER happen, and if this sort of problem is identifyied, it should have been corrected and remedied on ALL customer vehicles.
My highlander is blowing hot air peridocally when the a/c is on, i took it to my mechanic and he said the compressor cycles off at 36 degrees, except it is over 100 degrees out and i have owned this vehicle for three years and never had this problem. Over the last week it has done this about 20 times. The mechanic said come pick it up there is nothing wrong with it. Any suggestions, a new mechanic? I have a pretty decent after market warranty which should cover major repairs.
I have had this problem with the truck for 3 months now.
I finally had to take it to the dealer and it cost me $1000.
I had bought a second hand part but that was also not working!
I wrote a letter to Toyota and cited this web site stating all their customers that are having the same problems with the heater and then the air conditioning as a result of the heater.
They told me (yesterday) that there is no problem with this truck.
I want to ask you all to write to Toyota and make it very clear that as Highlander owners we are not impressed with them ignoring this issue.
I was told that if enough people contact them they could do a recall and address the issues.
So please...power to the people . Write to cutomer service at Toyota In California and make it plain to them that 41000 + posts on this website means there is a problem with this truck and they need to look after their customers!!! Toyota Motor Sales USA, Inc.
Customer Assistance Center
Department H200
19001 S. Western Ave.
Torrance, CA 90509
Make it clear to them it is unacceptable!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for your support Paul
Socialed Girl--it is probably overcharged with refrig. Newer Toyotas are VERY fussy about this and will build pressure at higher RPM's (2000+), pop the high pressure switch and kick out the compressor for a short period of time.
At idle the system will cycle just fine.
The overpressure can also be caused by air in the system, oddly enough injected when whoever decided to "top off" the AC charge and didn't clear the charge hose of air before attacthing it.
There is a slight chance that the pressure switch is weak and activating prematurely.
The Highlander has an glass "portal" on the high side line, near the radiator. Have someone raise the RPM to 1500 with AC on Max, fan on HIGH and all doors open. The portal should be clear without foam. A few bubbles here and there is fine. Have the helper hit the AC switch to shut off the compressor. As the system depressurizes, the portal should be filled with bubbles then clear again within 10 seconds of shutting of the AC. If the portal never bubbles and clears or takes several minutes to do that, then it is for sure overcharged.
I would have the system drawn down (vacuum pump) and then recharged by "weight*.
__________________
AVC
'02 Highlander
'03 Pilot
'01 Civic
Did mine yesterday. Highly recomend the 22 guage wire and pointy tip soldiering iron for work on the circuit board, 16 guage wire and a soldiering gun were a little bulky.
Count me as another successful and satisfied fix.
Mechanic quoted me $861 to fix on Monday. Found this on Tuesday. Fixed it on Wednesday. I wish I'd found this forum when the problem first started last October!
Thanks all!
I still find it hard to believe that with all these posts Toyota STILL will not acknowledge the problem.
This goes back to what my Father said years ago before his passing... there are no longer mechanics anymore, only parts replacers.
__________________ 08 Toyota Highlander Hybrid Limited (former ride - 05 Tundra Limited Double Cab, 4x4, TRD Pkg, Trailer Tow, Auto Dimming mirror, Factory Bed Liner, Running Boards, Bug Deflector, Sun roof):
Wife's Car :05 Prius - White, Option package 6, Glass Break Sensor, Mods: Auto door lock, Molded mud flaps, Cargo Net. Not much more you can get on it.
Oh by the way, "Batteries are included" with the Prius & Highlander Hybrids
If this issue occurred mostly "early on" during the 3 year warranty period... yu can bet Toyota would have looked into this defect. They would loose money on this part or would probably even create a TSB that would detail the solder fix that we see here.
But it doesn't occur till well off warranty...so TMS can make profit on this expensive part at the parts distribution level. It's all about making money.
TMS knew about this problem and they are very comfortable with ignoring it.
There is no incentive to fix a defective part if the part timely fails when there is no warranty left. They let the owner eat the part.
"Like it or lump it."
All mfrs do this. This is not exclusive to Toyota. Dealers make the majority of profit from Parts and Service...not from selling new cars.
My first heat/control system did the intermittent stuff. It would be cold AC and then suddenly blow hot air. I replaced it with a used climate control panel for $680 after paying a local mechanic. Cheaper than the dealer but certainly expensive.
After this second one went out for the same design flaw reason, I found this message board and fixed it myself with some wire I found. It's been working good for two years now.
My sister in law's went bad and I tried to fix it. Even after reincorporating the old wire, it wouldn't work. Any ideas as to why? I heated it a lot with the soldering iron. I'm not a pro yet. Could I have damaged the board or something? Can I fix this somehow?
i found this discussion searching this verry problem .
took a chance followed the instructions.
sure enough that was the problem . fixed it my self took all but 50 minutes.
Thanks to all of you who try to keep a little for them selves, instead of giving it away ..