Air Conditioning....

Thai · #1 (**permalink**) 06-21-2005, 03:16 PM

My AC seems to take awhile to actually be cold. Is there something with the system that may need to be 'recharged' or refilled? I'm not familiar with vehicle ACs.

peid · #2 (**permalink**) 06-21-2005, 03:21 PM

Problem seems to be notorious with Toyotas.

They are not defective, just don't cool as well as other makes of vehicles I have found.

They do cool, but not as quickly others.

KLS · #3 (**permalink**) 06-21-2005, 03:50 PM

Check that the heat is actually fully shut off.

Ken

lelandstanford · #4 (**permalink**) 06-21-2005, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peid

Problem seems to be notorious with Toyotas.

They are not defective, just don't cool as well as other makes of vehicles I have found.

They do cool, but not as quickly others.

My finding is just the opposite.

Toyotas A/C are like typical Japanese cars. They are colder than Americans or Germans.

The coldest A/C I've found is in a SC430. It actually made 2 overweigh Houstonians uncomfortable in < 3 minutes in 105 degree sun.

The car is not even tinted.

Thai · #5 (**permalink**) 06-21-2005, 05:42 PM

When it gets cold, if I circulate the inside air, it's REALLY cold. It's just that it takes awhile to get that cold. If I don't circulate the inside air, then it's not so cold. Oh well.

So there's no recharging necessary with the Toyota's AC system?

Brklyndriver · #6 (**permalink**) 06-21-2005, 10:47 PM

check to make sure the ac button is pressed and glowing green. Turn the climate knob all the way to blue. Then turn the other dial to high. This will blow cold air at u in a few seconds. Ac is also better on the highway then standing still.

sequoiasoon · #7 (**permalink**) 06-21-2005, 11:59 PM

As stated, check the heat control valve and cable also. There are TSB's for the Sequoia's and Tundra's on it. The cable and housing sometimes move so it does not close all the way. After reading the TSB I fixed my Sequoia in 5 seconds and then checked on my '93 Corolla and it had the same issue (also fixed now).

The other thing that helps A LOT is window tinting. I recommend Huper Optik Klasse. They have a very light 60% tint that blocks 54% of the heat. Some other companies 5% black limo tint doesn't even block 40% of the heat. I have the Llumar HP Charcoal 35% which blocks 40+% and noticed a huge difference in A/C performance. I didn't know about the Huper Optik until afterward but it will be my next tint should I need it. Read here for some more info and comparisons of tints. www.tintcenter.com

jim256 · #8 (**permalink**) 06-22-2005, 09:53 AM

Quote:

So there's no recharging necessary with the Toyota's AC system?

Thai: Check all the things mentioned, but, yes, it is possible you have lost refrigerant from a seal or break in the high or low pressure lines and the system is not fully charged. If it gets too low, it will turn the compressor off--maybe blink the green light when it senses the fault--but if all else fails have the charge checked either by Toyota or a competent garage.

gquenstedt · #9 (**permalink**) 06-22-2005, 07:18 PM

I think it is just the 134A refrigerant. It transfers heat slower than the old R12 would, so you have to be moving for air to be moving across the condenser, and for the engine RPM's to be higher. But as long as it still cools, then I would not suspect a leak.

Agent 409 · #10 (**permalink**) 06-22-2005, 07:45 PM

my AC just started to not cool very well..my truck is just over a year old and it is currently 110 degrees in phoenix and will be getting hotter throughout the summer..most of my trips are 10-15 minutes around town..my AC doesn't even get cool by the time each one of my short trips are done..it basically blows AIR at me..kind of cool when your hand is close to the vent, but when its hitting your face it doesn't feel cold at all..i checked my heater vent under the hood and that is closed tight..moved it with my hand and didn't budge..i've also taken my truck in last week to get it checked and the dealer told me i was low on frion or whatever its called..so they filled it up and they said they found no leaks, but put dye into the tubes to see if it leaks the next time i take it back..

basically what i'm trying to say is..if you live in this kind of weather, should it take that long to cool down..

edwardh1 · #11 (**permalink**) 06-23-2005, 03:53 PM

I think the HL has no hot water control valve. that hurts it a lot.
my 94 camry put out much colder air

aoeu · #12 (**permalink**) 07-07-2005, 07:18 PM

I'm in Arizona, too. It's just hard for any car to cool down. The newer 134A stuff doesn't help either. Being stuck in traffic is the worst. You'll notice the air won't cool as well. I find these tips making somewhat of a difference. Crack your car windows when you park them. When you first get into your car after it being in the sun, roll down your windows or open at least a couple of car doors to let most of the heat out. Go ahead and start the car with the AC blasted.. let it sit for 30 seconds at least.. 1 minute, if possible. Then, close the doors. I always have the air circulating. It's just way too hot here to take in "fresh" air... I've always hated it when cars in front had bad exhaust.

edwardh1 · #13 (**permalink**) 07-11-2005, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aoeu

I'm in Arizona, too. It's just hard for any car to cool down. The newer 134A stuff doesn't help either. Being stuck in traffic is the worst. You'll notice the air won't cool as well. I find these tips making somewhat of a difference. Crack your car windows when you park them. When you first get into your car after it being in the sun, roll down your windows or open at least a couple of car doors to let most of the heat out. Go ahead and start the car with the AC blasted.. let it sit for 30 seconds at least.. 1 minute, if possible. Then, close the doors. I always have the air circulating. It's just way too hot here to take in "fresh" air... I've always hated it when cars in front had bad exhaust.

Don't blame it on 134a - toyota scrimped on the size of the system, and also it has no hot water shut off valve.
my 94 had 134a and it really cooled

infoseek · #14 (**permalink**) 08-02-2008, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoiasoon

As stated, check the heat control valve and cable also. There are TSB's for the Sequoia's and Tundra's on it. The cable and housing sometimes move so it does not close all the way. After reading the TSB I fixed my Sequoia in 5 seconds and then checked on my '93 Corolla and it had the same issue (also fixed now).

The other thing that helps A LOT is window tinting. I recommend Huper Optik Klasse. They have a very light 60% tint that blocks 54% of the heat. Some other companies 5% black limo tint doesn't even block 40% of the heat. I have the Llumar HP Charcoal 35% which blocks 40+% and noticed a huge difference in A/C performance. I didn't know about the Huper Optik until afterward but it will be my next tint should I need it. Read here for some more info and comparisons of tints. www.tintcenter.com

I have the same problem, but would like a little more information about check/diy repair on the cable and housing.

I turned the knob all the way from hot to cold several times and confirmed the motor in the dash is working, but that's really all I can see.

I really don't think there's a leak and everything sounds superb, except the AC isn't as cold as before and takes a lot longer to cool.

oconn11 · #15 (**permalink**) 08-04-2008, 02:39 PM

My 02 Highlander is like a freezer. My 06 Highlander is cold but never gets as cold as my 02 - both are V6 engines. Personally I have always blamed it on the sun/moonroof. Of course thats just opinion. I have had the dealer check it and of course it was perfect. Oh well.....