Highlander Smokes (I'm a non-smoker!)

[NateF0022]

Well, I haven't posted on here in a while, but then, I haven't had a problem in a long time.

My 2001 Highlander (V6 Limited AWD, 68K mi) tends to let out a large plume of white smoke upon engine start. It only happens when the engine has had a chance to cool off and then we go to start it again. I took it into the stealership and of course they told me it was moisture in the exhaust. The car IS under warranty, but they didn't want to look at if further.

My question is: Does this seem plausible? Would it do it over a period of several months (lately it has gotten worse, hence me taking it in)? What other causes can we be looking at here? Is there a way to MAKE Toyota look at it?

Thanks for any help!

Nate

[NateF0022]

Seriously?! Nobody wants to tackle this issue? Am I at the mercy of the stealership here?

[mon2mon2]

I realize that you started this thread quite a while ago. I am having the same problem. Have you solved this yet? I've been calling repair shops around and they said it would cost me around $1200.00 bucks.

Is there another thread where you can lead me to?

thanks

[bepperb]

Mon2Mon2,

Are they talking about replacing valve guide/bushing/seals? What are you getting for 1200?

[mon2mon2]

one shop mentioned valve guide seals. He said this is common, and it allows oil to seap through, thus producing the white smoke.

But i thought white smoke is produced because of coolant mixing in.

[avconsult]

Had a 93 Camry V6 that did the same smoke plume at startup. Started using 10W40 to reduce leak-by at the valve guide seals. Had 120k+ on it anyway so the slightly heavier oil was probably beneficial.

[LifeTech]

Slightly worn valve guide seals plus condensation and moisture within the crankcase will emit the white/blue smoke at cold startup. As the engine warms up ..the condensation burns off and the valve guide seals will expand. The smoke will dissappear quickly . But this is an indication of the seals ready for replacement some time in the future. Many mature engines do this when they are up in miles. 120K seems to be the mark for your engine. But this will vary based on how well the oil change intervals were adhered to as well as type of oil used. OCI history from when new determines the longevity of seals etc.

Some people have luck changing viscosity of the oil. As stated above.
I would try a quality grade 10w30 first vs the 5w30 (Less thinner oil at cold start).10w40 is too thick for any VVT-i engine in my opinion. But...if all else fails... Sometimes just a brand change in oil could produce positive results. Different type and quality of additive package within an oil brand can make a difference. I have seen this many times before.
But...Do not use ANY oil additives!!

Question: do yu use a synthetic oil? from day one zero miles?

Or are yu using recycled bulk Dino oil from a quick lube or dealer? (yu never know exactly what yu are getting)

When yu check your oil level between OCI's how much do yu add to top off??
How many miles between OCI's. 5K should be the absolute maximum!

What is your Oil history like??
Good luck.

LT

[LifeTech]

Originally Posted by mon2mon2

one shop mentioned valve guide seals. He said this is common, and it allows oil to seap through, thus producing the white smoke.

But i thought white smoke is produced because of coolant mixing in.

That's one remote possibility...but usually leaking coolant within an engine is continuous and gets worse as the engine reaches operating temps. Hopefully this is not the case.

LT

[LifeTech]

What does $1,200 get in a head job (Both head Banks)?

Valve guide seals can possibly be done without removing the heads. But not always

But many shops will remove the heads and send them out to a machine shop.
If your valve train is intacked and not in question...why would yu need to pay all the labor of removing both heads to have heads rebuilt...yu only need new valve guide seals!!!

Something to research with your shop and question. Some shops will only swap out heads...others are skilled at doing just the seals with heads in place. In any event....$1200 seems to be a little on the high side of doing a head swap/rebuild. But All this depends which seals they are. and if accessible while head is in place. $600 -800 seems more realistic for a head job. (both). Confidence in your shop or tech. is also a factor.

I imagine removing the heads and doing the seals "in house" would be the most feasible approach.

The seals are inexpensive compared to the labor involved. Yu will also need a new Gasket Kit...

LT