[quote=Tom Hock;578416]
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcwebb
Just replaced the original battery in my Tundra after it died without any warning. Started just fine when I left to go to lunch but when I came out of the restaurant, it wouldn't even turn over. Couldn't even get it to turn over with a jump. Luckily this was a certified used truck. I had to buy a battery, but not pay for the tow to the dealership. The service manager said if one cell goes dead, you can't jump the battery.
I don't understand how a dead cell in your battery would have any effect with a jump start. The battery used for the jump start completely bypasses your in-car battery. You could completely remove your battery and a jump start would work.
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This is exactly true. The only thing I could surmise is that a
corroded terminal was at fault in this scenario causing an incomplete Jump Start circuit. Have seen this many times on a
very neglected battery. But then the battery would technically NOT be at fault... and would be serviceable, albeit the rest of the charging circuit being in sound condition.
If a cell IS bad the battery IS
no longer chargeable. But the engine is jumpable. A
dead cell (One of six;
usually an end cell)equates to a DEAD Short! Dead cells are the result of overcharging and low distilled water level and electrolytes( Sulfuric acid solution). Sometimes the battery has been deep cycled too many times
or is just old from use. This is fundamental battery stuff.
I buy the
Interstate with the l
ongest warranty and
Highest Cold Cranking rating that is available for the "
Group Size"(Industry Jargon for Battery Type and Dimension). I
never ever buy old battery stock older than 3 months sitting on the shelf. I
check the date code on the side of the casing before I accept one. Batteries are NOT designed to sit whether Brand new or otherwise. And I bring my VOM to check voltage and if it is not topped off, (standing Voltage of 12.5+)I ask them to trickle for 1/2 hour while I shop elswhere. Any respectable Dealer will do this if yu ask them too for the reasons above.
I tell people who buy used cars to check the battery date code and if it is approaching 3 years to swap it out, even though it might appear fine, and start fresh with something yu know IS Good!
But Interstate stuff has not let me down. I feel Sears Diehards were great 15+ years ago. Now they are made to different specs contracted to another Mfr. Diehards have been plagued with warranty returns and their policy hurts yu in the pocket. They are not rated well although many motorists are brand loyal and accept Sears Marketting at it's best.
You Generally pay for what yu get.
I have gotten more than 7 years with Interstate's with routine care and testing.
But, remember there is no battery that lasts forever. No one can put a time frame on a battery. Yu monitor it for capacity, keep it clean and terminals lubed and yu change when it falls below Amp Capac.
There
are probably a few other good Batteries out there, but I find Interstate has been consistent with Serviceability. And that leads to confidence when I or my wife go to start the car far from home on a dark rainy night in the middle of nowhere.
I guess I'm Brand loyal in this situation.
FYI, be advised ther are Cold Climate and Hot Climate batteries sold depending on your geographical area.
Many years back, I had a Sears Diehard purchased here in Norteast where I live and took a vacation down in Florida. I had problems with a bad cell always using fluid (going bad).
I warranteed the battery in Fla. and the battery ended up failing in the following winter months because of the Cold climate.
Research showed that batteries ARE regionally designed. Part numbers back this up. This is Industry wide.
I could go on but that's another thread.
Sorry for the long post . I can be long winded. Those reading, know this.
LT
Life of original battery
Re: Life of original battery
