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HighlanderGeneral discussion forum for the Toyota Highlander and Highlander Hybrid.
This is a discussion thread titled "Anyone do their own oil changes?", within the Highlander forum, part of the SUV Forums category.
Welcome to the DIY world. Based on my sordid memories of my first oil change many years back this is what I would recommend to any DIY oil change....
Lubricate the gasket on the oil filter and once you feel obstruction while threading in the oil filter turn the filter 3/4th of a turn clockwise and then 1/4 counterclockwise. After driving the vehicle for couple of hrs, I will go back and break the seal between the oil pan and filter by turning the filter counter-clockwise and then tightening it with a 1/4 turn clockwise. This way the seal isn't permanent to helps remove the oil filter next time around!!!!
These are real world experiences, since then never had problems in breaking the oil filter seal!!!
We have a 4-cyl HL, it is probably one of the easiest vehicles I've changed oil on. I not only don't have to jack up the car, I don't even have to crawl underneath. Laying down in front of the vehicle, I can reach everything. One thing I do have a problem with is getting the filter off, I usually use my giant channel-locks for that.
I buy factory oil filters from the dealer and buy oil from Wally-World. The nice thing about the factory filter is that they pre lube the gasket with silicone lube that is why they have plastic wrap on the base of the filter.
When I'm done, I find a vacant lot, dig a hole, and dump the oil into it. That's how I was taught to do it. No really, I take it back to Wally World. It's just funny to think that dumping the oil is how it used to be done.
I have done my own oil changes for over 30 years. On our Highlander as well as our Forester, I replaced the oil drain bolt with a Fumoto valve. So come oil change time, I ensure the engine was warm, put the oil pan under, strattling the drain and filter drip funnel, and open the Fumoto valve. While that's draining, since our Highlander is an 04 with the built-in filter drain funnel, I loosen and remove the filter from above. Clean the engine block filter area, oil the new filter seal and replace the filter.
Close the valve and wipe any dripping area off, then refill. No mess, less than 1/2 hr.
Doesn't anyone use the suction method to remove the old oil? I just changed oil in my '05 four cylinder Highland using a TopSider. This is a tank approximately two gal. capacity with a hand pump to create a vacuum. A small tube is placed down the dipstick tube and the oil is sucked out in a few minutes (a bit longer if done cold). I change the filter at every second 3000 mile oil change.
I used to drain the oil in the "old fashion" way, but find the suction method fast and very clean, and I don't have to subject my old body to any bending or laying on the cold ground here in Wisconsin.
The suction method is primarily used for closed transmissions and in some dumbass German vehicles like the Audi's (there was a thread on BIGOT where it costs $280 for a oil change on the Audi RS4/8, with the pump capacity of 12Q). I never understood this part of engineering where there is no drain bolts, but then when the Highlander has a drain bolt like in most vehicles why use the suction method.
All the time on 2002 and 2006 Highlanders. I cut the plastic skid plate in half so I only have to remove the peice blocking the filter. Use only 100% synthetic and the FRAM long life oil filters (15k filter). Change oil and filter evry 4k or 6 months whichever comes first.
All the time on 2002 and 2006 Highlanders. I cut the plastic skid plate in half so I only have to remove the peice blocking the filter. Use only 100% synthetic and the FRAM long life oil filters (15k filter). Change oil and filter evry 4k or 6 months whichever comes first.
I never, ever, had to get to my filter from the bottom!
Why do most/all people do it from below? It's messier too.
Unless yu have a Hybrid H/L removing the splash shield is Not needed!
I do it from the top. It really CAN BE DONE. Try it once, yu will get the hang of it, and save so much time and mess.
Using Mobil 1 5w30. I Use K&N, Mobil 1, or Pure One oil filters, whichever is available in that order.
LT
Its the drain plug washer, replace it every time and dont forget to remove the old one. Just a note of info Fram and Puro oil filters are junk. only aftermarket filter that is close or even may exceed OEM are the Wix filters. Good luck
I do mine all the time. 2003 Highlander V6. I don't have a gaurd to remove. Only problem I have is that to reach the oil filter I need to reach down past the exhaust manifold. I drain the oil when it is hot, then wait for things to cool down before I change the filter.
...I have never used washers on the oil drain bolt ever and never had a leak!!!
Yes, but you probably torqued it harder than if you'd used a new compressible gasket each time. With time (~~30 oil changes) you'll weaken and strip the oil pan threads this way. A 60 cent gasket is cheap insurance. And it's the way Toyota engineers intended.
I change my own oil and oil filter every 3000 miles. I use 5 quarts of Castrol GTX 10w-30. I’ve been using this oil for many years on all my cars. I only use Purolator filters.
I use a set of ramps to get under the car. To remove the oil filter I use an adjustable wrench similar to this one
I hope yu are using the Purolator PURE One filters because all the other standard Purolator filters are of inferior grade. Internal (back flow and pressure check valves) components have repeatedly tested poorly. The media clogs up fast and is barely usable after 3000K. Remember, an oil filter does more than just filter the oil.\
PS how can yu keep the vehicle level using car ramps???The vehicle should always be level to do an effective OC.
If access is a problem, then use a floor jack and drop down for draining purposes. LT
I have a V6 Highlander and oil changes are pretty easy on this vehicle. As t3mp mentioned, you should remove the bottom skid plate to get to the oil filter, but that's very easy to do (but it adds extra time to the overall job).
Usually I start by draining the oil, and while it's draining I work on removing the skid plate. The skid plate is attached via multiple bolts and two plastic fasteners. The plastic fasteners can be removed by gently prying the round section from it's base with a flathead screwdriver until it pops out and then you can pull it out by hand. There are two plastic clips as well, and these come off by pulling downward on them to release the skid plate (after you have removed all the other bolts of course).
Once the skid plate is removed then the oil filter will be plain view and the rest of the oil change is pretty straighforward. (I'm assuming of course that you already know how to change the oil in a car)
Yu don't need to remove splash shield!!!!!!!!
Do it from the top. remove filter slowly, And let the drops of oil fall into the funnel that is mounted underneath the filter. It Does work, that's why its there. If the car is level like it should be when doing an OCI, no oily mess!!
LT
The 2.4 L engine in the 03 Highlander is the easiest vehicle I have ever changed oil on. It is so simple, no shields, no need to crawl under the vehicle. Both the drain plug (no washer) and the filter are at the front of the engine. Can't believe the dealer wants $40 plus to do oil changes after doing one myself on the Highlander.
I paid $25 including oil, filter, filter removal tool, funnel, enviromental fee, and taxes. Now changes will be $16 for oil filter and taxes.
Re: Anyone do their own oil changes?
(there was a thread on BIGOT where it costs $280 for a oil change on the Audi RS4/8, with the pump capacity of 12Q). I never understood this part of engineering where there is no drain bolts, but then when the Highlander has a drain bolt like in most vehicles why use the suction method. 
!!!
The media clogs up fast and is barely usable after 3000K. Remember, an oil filter does more than just filter the oil.\
