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HighlanderGeneral discussion forum for the Toyota Highlander and Highlander Hybrid.
This is a discussion thread titled "TC and Diff fluid change", within the Highlander forum, part of the SUV Forums category.
I replaced the differential with Amsoil 80W90 fluid on my 2006 AWD highlander.
The factory fill with 6.5k miles was dark but not burnt and the drain magnet had a thin layer of metal. I have stored and captured a picture of the fluid, but don't know how to upload it for the forum...
The factory fill was less by 50ml (capacity = 1Q) and I used a hand pump to put the new fluid in, test drove it and all fine.
I will being doing the same shortly ,but also to the front tranfer diff as well.
Hypoid is always dark when new.
The magnet will collect metallic fragments especially on the initial fill due to machining tolerance and subsequent breakin. especial on the first few miles.
I found a speed shop with Amsoil on the shelf. Its priced by weight more than GOLD. They charge $$$$$ for it. I know it generally can be M/O'd for alot less.
Where do get your Amsoil stuff.
I would feel fine with Mobil1 Hypoid just the same however.
LT
I bought the stuff from local ACDelco store and the price was close to the Amsoil website prices, therefore I didn't have to go the local dealer route.
Amsoil 80W90 was $8.50/Q (the 75W90 was $9.50).
I have to get to the x-case sooner or later, I first need to get the bolt size resolved, some on this forum have said it is 23mm and others have said 24mm. I need to go thro the service manual to be sure before getting to replace the x-case fluid.
On the diff, I just went under the vehicle and removed the bolts. Filled in the new oil with a hand pump, had to be nice to the pump since the gear oil is really viscous. Once done put back the bolts after cleaning them and using the same washers as is, didn't see a necessity to replace them.
I am glad I got the differential fluid exchanged... Good luck.
Yeah that is one thing that's been weighing on my mind. I really want to dump the O/E Lubes badly even though I only have about 5,500 miles on my 06. I really believe in changing it. I feel very important and advocate to many. But, I have not done it.
Yu know I just might do it this weekend. Yu gave me the itch and it could be warm Sunday, but with rain. I never bother my friend at the dealer anymore. But he owes me a favor. But the weather is too cold to get under my H/L right now.. I just got a new creeper too just for THIS project. Feels nicer than my bed.
Complete the x-case fluid exchange last night (my wife was pissed off, but then I had to do what I had to -- most women only know to drive thats about it).
Anyway, 23mm or a 24mm socket is not going to help. Pl. don't monkey with the wrong sockets/wrenches, the bolts on the x-case are really soft (my take is I can go for another fluid exchange before getting new bolts from Toyota).
You need a 15/16" socket for the fill bolt and a 15/16" wrench for the drain bolt. The socket won't help to remove the drain bolt, the exhaust pipe is right next to it. (I must give credit to Toyota to intentially run the exhaust closeto the bolts -- so that we don't over tighten the bolts). Used 1Q of Amsoil 80W90.
Drained fluid wasn't as bad as the differential but then it was dark black with less metal attached to the magnet.
SAE wrench and socket used...Hmmm thats strange for a Japan built Toyota. could've fooled me. But then, thanx for letting me know now.
I noticed Mobil 1 synth. Hypoid is not available in 80w90, only 75w90 and 75w140 , at least what I see at Pep boys.
Get this, the Mobil 1 75w140 is double the price of the 75w90 . ($20.00)
Not that it matters or effects me. But I think it is a bad pricing by Pep boys. Pep boys also has Royal purple synth, but only in the same grades as the mobil!
Can't seem to find Synthetic 80w90 around here in NYC. I know it's around but why such a hunt for this grade?
Star Toyota parts told me O/E is not synthetic. But I will check two other dealers I use. I like to get consistent info. Sometimes Yu get conflicting info from dealer to dealer especially on low maintenace components like x-case and diff.
BTW, I find it strange yu would notice smoother shifting in the tranny since yu didn't change the ATF. I could understand a smoother/quieter diff action though, which can be very apparent in a 4wd H/L.
LT
Star Toyota parts told me O/E is not synthetic. But I will check two other dealers I use. I like to get consistent info. Sometimes Yu get conflicting info from dealer to dealer especially on low maintenace components like x-case and diff.
BTW, I find it strange yu would notice smoother shifting in the tranny since yu didn't change the ATF. I could understand a smoother/quieter diff action though, which can be very apparent in a 4wd H/L.
LT
LT did you change your fluids yet? Which fluid did you end up choosing?
LT did you change your fluids yet? Which fluid did you end up choosing?
Did it at Star-Toyota or did you do it yourself?
Thanks
I did it myself.
Toyota doesn't indicate that this service is necessary.
But this is cheap insurance.( at $8 per quart.) I cannot really say I'm getting Way better MPG, but I feel I am getting more. As negligible as it appears to me. But then again we are paying $3.29/gal for gas in NYC....
If I'm getting even 1 more mile to the gal. it is worth it to me right there.
I went with Mobil 1 75w90. It's GL-5 spec as indicated. 1 quart in diff and 1 in the x-case.
The OE fluid in the diff was much worse (and completly Black) than the x-case. There was a complete ball of metal shavings on the magnetic diff drain plug.(about the size of a quarter) the x-case had a fair amount of metal too but seemed much more normal for this HL with 7,100 miles.
I feel it wouldn't be necessary to do a fluid change again. Or at least for another 100k miles. The breakin oil is what gets fouled up initially. According to several Toyota parts dept. the OE fluid is not labled as a synthetic. Just 80w90; GL-5 hypoid gear lube.
Mobil 1 synth.75w90 is fine for this application. And easily found at stores.
BTW, Doing the x-case was a pain in the but!!! The diff by contrast was a breeze. And the diff was more in need of the change too.
Isn't is strange we pay >$30K for these vehicles and they can't even stick in syn gear oils right from factory (in the dept of syn gear fluids some of the American auto manufactures are ahead). Above all Toyo says it is not a serviceable item, that is even more laughable.
I am a firm believer in PM, I will change out my gear oil once I hit 30K miles on it, I wouldn't wait till 100K (since I have done it once, the second time it should be a breeze).
LifeTech: Did you use the old crush washers, or you did it by the book, getting new ones?
Isn't is strange we pay >$30K for these vehicles and they can't even stick in syn gear oils right from factory (in the dept of syn gear fluids some of the American auto manufactures are ahead). Above all Toyo says it is not a serviceable item, that is even more laughable.
I am a firm believer in PM, I will change out my gear oil once I hit 30K miles on it, I wouldn't wait till 100K (since I have done it once, the second time it should be a breeze).
LifeTech: Did you use the old crush washers, or you did it by the book, getting new ones?
I chose to use the same Original washers. They were just fine. I installed them exactly as they were originally placed on the bolts.
These bolts get torqued pretty well and I feel the washers were ok to reuse. I have no leaks of course as it turns out. Proof is in the puddin.
TC and Diff fluid change
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