Weld or clamp exhaust?

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Thread: Weld or clamp exhaust?

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    Default Weld or clamp exhaust?

    I ordered a Magnaflow muffler. I am assuming that having it welded in place is best and am planning on taking it to a muffler shop. Am I wrong? Can it crack? What about clamping it instead? Are there drawbacks to either method?
    2004 Tundra Access Cab cold piston slapping V8 TRD Natural flat "clay bar?! haha I barely even wash it" white. Faded but still there Line-X bedliner, NASTA polished by a guardrail stainless steel nerf bars bolted to a rusty then coated in grease frame, 22" stainless steel Magnaflow droning muffler with stock tailpipe, Daystar 1" front leveling kit that now sits higher than the many times overloaded rear, bald and too expensive to replace Michelin LTX 265/75/16 tires, Hellwig rear sway bar kit cause everyone else was doing it, Custom paint job by "F**k I forgot to lift the mower deck going over the gravel driveway again", PA whitetail buck modified driver's side. Paid for and runs like a top.

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    The weld can crack if the shop you have it done at does a poor job of welding it to the pipes. Clamps can come loose and/or separate from the pipe due to vibration and expansion and contraction over endless heat cycles which can cause leaks. I've had all my aftermarket mufflers welded in place and I have never had a problem with doing so over my many years.

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    Yep, welding is the best approach. Makes for a better seal. I'd ask the shop you go to for some kind of guarantee on their work.
    Lance

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    Quote Originally Posted by EricZ
    I ordered a Magnaflow muffler. I am assuming that having it welded in place is best and am planning on taking it to a muffler shop. Am I wrong? Can it crack? What about clamping it instead? Are there drawbacks to either method?
    I would reccomend havin it welded in place. A 360 degree weld will not leak.
    This method will ensure proper rotaion of the muffler and tail pipe.

    I wouldnt use a clamp, because they can leak, and can loosen.
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    If the muffler is stainless and the tubing is stock (stainless) than you should have the welder weld it with stainless wire if it's a MIG welder or stainless filler rod if they use a TIG welder. Either way don’t let them weld it with regular mild steel.
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    Default Now I'm confused

    Thanks for the tips. I was all set to get it welded before I talked to a friend of mine. He runs a well respected garage in my opinion. He insists that I'm better off clamping because of the ease of removal and the ability to replace individual parts if something becomes damaged, breaks etc. He also says that there is a possibility that it can crack in the future. Finally, he has a brand new Saleen Mustang. Saleen apparently use Magnaflows on their cars and his was clamped direct from them. He did bring up some good points although maybe he just doesn't want to be bothered with it.
    2004 Tundra Access Cab cold piston slapping V8 TRD Natural flat "clay bar?! haha I barely even wash it" white. Faded but still there Line-X bedliner, NASTA polished by a guardrail stainless steel nerf bars bolted to a rusty then coated in grease frame, 22" stainless steel Magnaflow droning muffler with stock tailpipe, Daystar 1" front leveling kit that now sits higher than the many times overloaded rear, bald and too expensive to replace Michelin LTX 265/75/16 tires, Hellwig rear sway bar kit cause everyone else was doing it, Custom paint job by "F**k I forgot to lift the mower deck going over the gravel driveway again", PA whitetail buck modified driver's side. Paid for and runs like a top.

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    Well exhaust piping is cheap and easy to replace if it gets damaged from say impact or under truck debris. I'm sure regardless of which way he chooses to go it'll work well for him

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    What exactly are the problems that arise say from a small leak around a clamp?
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    a small leak sounds bad and results in loss of power. it also means moisture dripping out the leak. if theres a gasket at the leak, it will degrade the gasket.

    have a good muffler shop weld the thing in place. there is already a donut joint in front of the stock muffler, if youre worried you can always have them weld in a flex section or something. i'll be doing the same when i have my y-pipe modified to a 3-bolt flange, in order to connect to a 3-bolt flanged flex pipe, to the stock exhaust pipe, because i'm sick of leaking clamps and dont want an impact at the tailpipe (like from a rock, ledge or stump) to torque back up the exhaust pipe.

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    Default Decision made, some other ?'s

    My Magnaflow will be delivered on Monday. I am going to install it myself and clamp it first to see how I like the sound. If I like it, then maybe I will decide to have it welded. I bought a 2.5" in/out model and the stock pipe I believe is 2 3/8. How much pipe overlap on each side of the muffler should I have? I was thinking at least 1 inch on each side. I am assuming that if I decide to weld, I can just take the whole thing off and have the muffler welded just as it is clamped. Should also save some $. Can I cut the pipe with a good quality hacksaw blade or is it a Sawsall caliber job? (I'm pretty stubborn and not overly lazy ) What about the donut seal? My truck is a 2004 with 7K miles. Will it need replaced or is it too new?
    2004 Tundra Access Cab cold piston slapping V8 TRD Natural flat "clay bar?! haha I barely even wash it" white. Faded but still there Line-X bedliner, NASTA polished by a guardrail stainless steel nerf bars bolted to a rusty then coated in grease frame, 22" stainless steel Magnaflow droning muffler with stock tailpipe, Daystar 1" front leveling kit that now sits higher than the many times overloaded rear, bald and too expensive to replace Michelin LTX 265/75/16 tires, Hellwig rear sway bar kit cause everyone else was doing it, Custom paint job by "F**k I forgot to lift the mower deck going over the gravel driveway again", PA whitetail buck modified driver's side. Paid for and runs like a top.

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    Default ??

    my brother had a flowmaster put on his ford, they welded it and it caused it to rust out at the welds, maybe they didnt use the right wire, dunno, maybe a coat of some kinda heat resistant rust preventative would have worked to prevent it, just a thought.


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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by EricZ
    My Magnaflow will be delivered on Monday. I am going to install it myself and clamp it first to see how I like the sound. If I like it, then maybe I will decide to have it welded. I bought a 2.5" in/out model and the stock pipe I believe is 2 3/8. How much pipe overlap on each side of the muffler should I have? I was thinking at least 1 inch on each side. I am assuming that if I decide to weld, I can just take the whole thing off and have the muffler welded just as it is clamped. Should also save some $. Can I cut the pipe with a good quality hacksaw blade or is it a Sawsall caliber job? (I'm pretty stubborn and not overly lazy ) What about the donut seal? My truck is a 2004 with 7K miles. Will it need replaced or is it too new?
    A cutting wheel/grinder or plasma torch are the best tools for that Job, a sawsall will get you through it but it will take a minute.

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    Thanks for the replies. What about the pipe overlap?
    2004 Tundra Access Cab cold piston slapping V8 TRD Natural flat "clay bar?! haha I barely even wash it" white. Faded but still there Line-X bedliner, NASTA polished by a guardrail stainless steel nerf bars bolted to a rusty then coated in grease frame, 22" stainless steel Magnaflow droning muffler with stock tailpipe, Daystar 1" front leveling kit that now sits higher than the many times overloaded rear, bald and too expensive to replace Michelin LTX 265/75/16 tires, Hellwig rear sway bar kit cause everyone else was doing it, Custom paint job by "F**k I forgot to lift the mower deck going over the gravel driveway again", PA whitetail buck modified driver's side. Paid for and runs like a top.

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    I replaced my muffler with a Magnaflow a couple of weeks ago, I clamped it all together. If you mean how far in to put the exhaust pipe/tail pipe into the muffler, I just put it in as far as it would go, maybe 3". You will need some 2.5" outside diameter exhaust piping, that will fit over the existing 2.4" stock pipe, and will fit right inside the muffler. I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut out the old muffler, it went really fast. Also I'd suggest removing the entire exhaust system before cutting off the muffler, it's a lot easier to cut it on a table than cutting upside down under the truck.
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