My truck has a factory tint on it. Its not close to as much as i would like it. I am almost positive the glass is a tinted glass and there is no film on the glass. Anyone know what % tint comes stock on the truck? I dont know how dark i can go legally and wanted to find out if there are different kinds of tint.
I dont know much about getting a tint done. I know there are different kinds etc.. Any advice would be appreciated.
__________________ TUNDRA786
2007 Tundra Crew Max 4.7 TRD 4x4
285/65/18's with BF Goodrich All Terrain KO's
BedRug, Undercover, Bed Extender, Husky Liners
35% is factory. some newer SUVs are sporting 20% now. Yours looks to have 20%, best way is just go to the shop and tell them to match it. I have 20% all the way around... IMO any lighter is a waste
Last edited by tampawright; 10-12-2007 at 12:05 PM.
My truck has a factory tint on it. Its not close to as much as i would like it. I am almost positive the glass is a tinted glass and there is no film on the glass. Anyone know what % tint comes stock on the truck? I dont know how dark i can go legally and wanted to find out if there are different kinds of tint.
I dont know much about getting a tint done. I know there are different kinds etc.. Any advice would be appreciated.
I forgot to tell you about the eyebrow, the strip across the top of the windshield. If it extends below the ASI line that's about 3 or 4" down from the top of the windshield, you'll fail the inspection. Either make sure it's above the line or don't get one at all.
Both of our vehicles failed after 5 years of passes when the inspection people got popped by DPS for passing cars with this issue. I took my truck to a different place than my old lady went to & I was told to either have it trimmed or removed. I whipped out my pocket knife & trimmed it on the spot ( a whole 1/8"), wadded it up & tossed it at the guy. Kinda flipped out the inspection guy, but he was being a tool. The line is on the driver's side, but not the passenger side. He insisted I trim both sides, but my argument was that there wasn't a line on the passenger side.
I forgot to tell you about the eyebrow, the strip across the top of the windshield. If it extends below the ASI line that's about 3 or 4" down from the top of the windshield, you'll fail the inspection. Either make sure it's above the line or don't get one at all.
Both of our vehicles failed after 5 years of passes when the inspection people got popped by DPS for passing cars with this issue. I took my truck to a different place than my old lady went to & I was told to either have it trimmed or removed. I whipped out my pocket knife & trimmed it on the spot ( a whole 1/8"), wadded it up & tossed it at the guy. Kinda flipped out the inspection guy, but he was being a tool. The line is on the driver's side, but not the passenger side. He insisted I trim both sides, but my argument was that there wasn't a line on the passenger side.
My current truck has no eyebrow.
I'd like to show your inspection weenie my windshield to see if he can detect the tint on it. There's no lines you see, the whole thing is tinted!
Are you looking for the tint for looks or performance? Check out TintCenter.com - Window Tinting for some great info as well as the current laws. You can see the different manufacturers and what their tints do performance wise. My Huper Optik Ceramic 30 (on my Sonata) blocks more heat than the 5% dark limo tints from the other companies. Lighter shade (still illegal here) but since the cops can see through it most don't bust your chops unless you get pulled for being stupid for other stuff. Many states, even the "factory" 70% tint on the drivers/passengers windows barely makes it through the light meter.
I had my front windows matched to the rear on my Crewmax. I think it's 15% or something like that. It is illegal in New Jersey, but I am otherwise a law-abiding citizen
There are deals to be had on tint...but be aware of something that sounds too good to be true. The local tint specialists here have specials all the time for tint, like $100 for tint...the thing is, they use super cheap tint that will fade and bubble within two years. And then they'll charge you $75 to scrape it off, and then you'll want more tint...$$. 3M/Johnson generally last about 5 years, depending on your average sun exposure. I've seen some that have lasted longer, and some that lasted less. Average is about 5 years though. You should expect to pay around $250, but like I said, deals are to be had from time to time. Just make sure to ask them what tint it is. Huper I've seen last over 5 years regularly, it's just...really good tint. But expect to pay $400 and up for that. The rolls of Huper cost about $1500, versus a roll of 3M that costs $300.
Not sure what the current laws are, but when I installed tint at my father's restoration shop the laws are interestingly a little different pertaining to older vehicles. We were required by law to still adhere to them because, once in a while, we did get newer vehicles in for some custom work and sometimes that included tinting. From 2000-2005 I know that the Texas window tint laws were front two windows were to be no darker than 35%, and the rest could have whatever they wanted, up to a certain year (I think 80 something). However, newer vehicles require no darker than 35% on all windows, excluding the back windshield which would be whatever darkness they wanted. Anything older than a certain year could be whatever they wanted. SUVs and trucks have different limitations, though. We had to put 35% on the front two, but limo could be put on everything else, for any year (new or old).
Huper was one of the brands I installed and that stuff is SICK. It's a pain in the *** to work with because it's literally a ceramic film and very thick, so it's a tough film and doesn't always go down like you want or need it to. But once it's on it lasts much longer than any other tint from other leading manufacturers such as 3M and Johnson Films. We had a display in the front area that had a wooden box with a peice of glass that had Huper on one side and 3M's 20% on the other. There was a heat lamp mounted in the top of the box, and we would tell customers to put their hand at the bottom, and slide the glass back and forth. Huper allows a lot more light than traditional films, but the heat blockage is nuts. Not to mention it has a very reflective surface from the outside looking in, so you still get some security. Very expensive stuff though, we charged $500 and up to install Huper. Whereas you could get your entire car tinted in a quality grade 3M film for about $250-300.
For what it's worth, Toyota's Tundra shouldn't come factory tinted, as they have on-site tinters at most dealerships. For instance, my truck was actually tinted by a guy that use to work for my father, small world. I always wondered where he went after quitting...
Anyway...I've rambled enough.
__________________
2008 Toyota Tundra Grade, Double Cab, 4.0L V6
236 horsepower-266lbs/ft torque .:Personal Mods Completed:.
~Black Headlight Mod. Click to view video tut/thread/pics!!!
~Gauge LED swap (from amber to white). Vid/tut coming soon!!!
llumar tint iz da best
it cost me 222 dollas but it was well worth it
it was mettalized and blokz out plenty of light
highly reccomend it
itz actualy more expensive than other brandz , but trust me you will love it, and best of all it comes with a lifetime warranty, wut kan b better
i put 30% on da front and did 5% all in da bak
u kan put up to 25% tint on da front windowz
but it duznt matter for the bak
and to also let u no , that tundras dont come with factory tint, itz calld privacy glass , and iz nothng like tint, so if u put 5% tint it actually komez out to be 3% wich iz alot better
Need window TINT advice
TUNDRA786
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