You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
Interior & ExteriorDiscussions about the interior, and exterior of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Sprayed rustproofing on rear axle", within the Interior & Exterior forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Well, after my first year with my Tundra, there is some rust on the rear axle. Particularly the rear diff housing, axle and springs. So I went out and bought some spray rustproofing and it really does a good job of coating everything. Its like a clear gel that coats the metal. It's supposed to dissolve rust and protect the metal. We'll see. I plan on spraying under the rockers and some of the front too.
Here are some pics after spraying the axle. I didn't think to take "before" pics, but you can clearly see the rust I have after 1 winter. Hopefully this stuff will help.
The product is a solvent and phosphoric acid. Phosphoric acid (PA) is a very common rust converter. PA converts rust to iron phosphate which is non-corroding. Iron phosphate is black. So, if you see the rust turning black, it's working. The only thing I would be concerned about is that typically, the phosphoric acid needs to be washed off. Otherwise, it could etch a surface.
Report back as to it's progress, I'm interested. Thanks
I can't understand why there would be that much rust on a 2007. I bought some Rustoleum rust spray in flat black and did what I could reach on my back. I'll put it on a lift a work soon and do everything over again to make sure I didn't miss any spots. The Rustoleum spray is supposed to stop rust for two years. We'll see.
__________________
2001 Tundra TRD Access Cab 4x4, SAW/Camburg coilovers, TC diff drop kit, Wheeler's Offroad AAL and Bilstein 5100's, LT265/75R16 Revos on Wheeler's black alloys, True Flow intake tube and filter with a modded air box, JBA titanium coated headers, Aero 2525 muffler with stainless steel pipes and resonator removed, Skidrow front skidplate, EBC "green" brake pads, Wheelers stainless brake hose kit, Helweig swaybar, Wheeler's polyurathane front swaybar bushing kit,TRD "posi" 3rd member, debadged, backseat-power outlet-map lamp-taillight mod, Optima red top, TRD mirror covers painted flat black, Silverstar fog light bulbs, , Viair 300P air compressor
Wish list: Line X'd front and rear bumper, rock sliders
I tjust occured too me, does that stuff dry or does it saty tacky? If it stays tacky all the dirt, dust, and sand will stick to the housing and defeat the purpose.
__________________
2001 Tundra TRD Access Cab 4x4, SAW/Camburg coilovers, TC diff drop kit, Wheeler's Offroad AAL and Bilstein 5100's, LT265/75R16 Revos on Wheeler's black alloys, True Flow intake tube and filter with a modded air box, JBA titanium coated headers, Aero 2525 muffler with stainless steel pipes and resonator removed, Skidrow front skidplate, EBC "green" brake pads, Wheelers stainless brake hose kit, Helweig swaybar, Wheeler's polyurathane front swaybar bushing kit,TRD "posi" 3rd member, debadged, backseat-power outlet-map lamp-taillight mod, Optima red top, TRD mirror covers painted flat black, Silverstar fog light bulbs, , Viair 300P air compressor
Wish list: Line X'd front and rear bumper, rock sliders
Try this product it works wonders can be had from the this link or Amazom, and on ebay also. I have a friend who put this on the under side of his lawn mower deck 2 years no signs of wear chipps or rust, hard as nails and stops rust. No cleaning required spray areas with the prep and dry then paint till your done and enjoy. It really works.
I tjust occured too me, does that stuff dry or does it saty tacky? If it stays tacky all the dirt, dust, and sand will stick to the housing and defeat the purpose.
It stayed tacky for a day or so, but I've since pressure washed it and now it looks dry. The rust is still visible, but has turned darker in color. I'll take another couple of pics later today so you can see the difference.
Anything that comes from a rattle can will probably be gone in a year or two. It is a tough environment under there. To really go full out on the housing, I would remove it and sandblast, taking care to mask areas near seals and breathers etc. Then zinc chromate metal primer/sealer, followed by some polyurethane "plastic" paint. There are variants of this with teflon added, specifically meant to withstand areas of high abrasion, such as fender wells etc. Removing the diff is not an easy task, but perhaps some wire brush / chemical cleaning could substitute when the truck is new and still clean.
I've gotten great results by starting with POR's "Metal Ready" liquid to prep the surface whether rusty or not. It neutralizes the rust, and leaves a zinc phosphate finish that the paint will adhere to.
I just did my frame rails and weld joints with this prep, and Krylon rust-preventing semi flat black spray paint. We'll see how long it lasts, and if it doesn't hold up I'll use POR-15 paint next time.