Ok, well I finally got my truck back from the body shop today (getting fixed after an accident). So I got to work on installing the ballasts. I used #8 1 1/2 inch zinc screws with nylon spacers, and nylon screw grommets. Some of the pictures are a bit fuzzy, I need play with my camera settings more and find a way to manually focus.
First I cut the holes for the screw grommets.
Here are the three grommets for the drivers side installed.
What it looks like from behind.
And the drivers side ballast mounted.
The passengers side ballast mounted.
I have still not found out a way to get the high beam indicator to light up when I have both the high and low beams on. But I'll deal with it until a solution is found.
Last edited by dibble9012; 09-25-2008 at 10:39 PM.
Just made the harnesses for the ballasts. The H4 connector (bottom of picture) connects to my upgraded harness that I installed earlier. The connector in the middle of the picture will connect to the projector solenoid, and finally the top connector connects to the Nissan Ballast. These make install quick and clean. I have designed all of my electrical add-ons in the engine compartment to be removable. If I ever needed or wanted to remove the aux fuse box, HID's, circuit breakers, relays, and driving lights; it would be as simple as unscrewing a few screws and unplugging the connectors from the stock wiring. NONE of the stock wiring has ever been cut into at all
That's straight up sexiness right there!!! Keep up the good work, maybe you can make me a harness when I get my 2nd set going???
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2005 Tundra Double Cab 4x2 SR5 in Spectra Blue Mica Modifications: Exterior: A little bit of this Interior:A little bit of that Performance:A few knick-knacks in between
Yes, I could do that for you, would fit better than one of the "universal" harnesses. It would also be more durable, I solder all my connections, I think the universal harnesses are crimp connectors, with no solder.
Have not gotten the projectors yet, but I wanted to play around and see how I would seal up the back of the headlight so moisture does not come into contact with the projector bowl (which will stick out the back). Found this at home depot, and it looks like it will do the job well. May have to shorten it a bit because the projector should not stick out that far. The stock bulb seal fits on the end I checked the fit against the headlight, and the PVC will need a bit of trimming to fit properly, and it does not have to be as long as it is. Other than that, looks like it will work.
EDIT: Ended up not needing these!
Last edited by dibble9012; 10-22-2008 at 02:31 PM.
Tested the electrical part of the project today. Worked as planned The wires/fuses on my upgraded harness are rated for 20 amps for low beam, and 20 amps for high beam. It's really convenient the way this is set up. It took me less than 10 minutes to plug in the ballast harness to the upgraded harness from before, plug in the bulbs, take a picture, and reconnect the stock halogens/take HID bulbs out.
Now all I need are the projector headlights I really like the start up sound of these things too. m-o-r-e power!
Tonight I worked on getting the HID's to stay on with the high beams, and getting the high beam indicator on the dash to light up properly. I finally succeeded after some trial and error. I needed an extra relay to add resistance on the high beam wire. Anyways, I'm writing up a small diagram for my own reference, and I'll post that as well
Here's a diagram I wrote up, I'll double check it tomorrow (it's almost midnight, I'm tired). It's quite complicated because I have other driving lights, let me know if there are any questions. With this setup the high beam indicator will light, and the HID's will stay on while the high beams are on. I added a switch in the engine bay so I could be able to switch between "halogen" and "HID" modes (Halogen, the low beams turn off when the highs are turned on; HID, the low beams stay on when the high beams are turned on.) This could come in useful if my truck won't pass inspection with the HID's. Just plop in my old headlights and bulbs, flip the switch, and get it re-inspected.
The projectors and shrouds should be here Thursday I'm still deciding whether to do it myself or have someone else do it. I guess I can practice on one of the spare headlights I have, if I screw up the most I lose is $40.
Last edited by dibble9012; 10-14-2008 at 01:35 PM.
Ok, well I figured I'd give it a shot on one of my extra headlights. I was surprised how easily the headlight comes apart. I put it in the oven at 250F for 8 minutes, on a piece of cardboard. Pulled the lense off with a putty knife and a straight edge screwdriver. There are also 2 #15 torx screws to remove. The aiming bolts are a #8 socket.
The bulb shield is removed by squeezing the two prongs of the shield, and unsnapping it. No screws.
So my first step has worked well, next I will be mounting the projectors probably on Thursday.
As a side note, I plan on adding a raintracker automatic headlight and wiper control system as a part of the HID system. Hopefully integrating the stock Sequoia light stalk that has the "auto" switch.
Last edited by dibble9012; 10-14-2008 at 07:59 PM.
If this going to look easy enough for me to do, I am going to do same set-up as yours except I will use original LS460 ballasts and bulbs. I can't wait untill this set up is complete on your truck
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2006 Toyota Sequoia Limited 4x4 w/ lxr package, 7008 navi, rear entartaiment system, 20" x-sp enkei
2001 Toyota Tundra SR5 4x4 - TRD 9Psi Supercharged, JBA Ceramic Headers, and few other crazy mods. 400hp and 440lb/tq. Over 330,000 miles.
OK, been working since 8pm tonight, pictures soon The passenger side headlight is pretty much done. I Just need to do a little cosmetic stuff, and put it all back together. Road tested, and it seems like a good beam pattern, I need to go to a side of a building to make sure it's right. The pictures I took are not much of a "step by step" approach because this was all new to me. When I do the driver side headlight I will take detailed pictures. I'm really happy how it has turned out so far, REALLY happy. I was nervous I was going to screw one of the projectors or headlights up.
Now my plan of action is to retrofit my extra headlight reflectors (there are no modifications needed to the rear housing). Then once I am done, I will take apart the original headlamps and replace the reflector, and put them back together. My extra headlights have broken mounting tabs, otherwise I would just retrofit them completely.
Last edited by dibble9012; 10-16-2008 at 10:42 PM.
Re: 2005 Tundra DC HID Retrofit Progress
Linear Mode
