Mount a wheel chock in the bed. I used one that is removable and only leaves a cleat that the chock attaches to in place after you remove the chock. The chock takes the pressure instead of the bed. I have Pics posted on this site.
HTH
Bert
Mount a wheel chock in the bed. I used one that is removable and only leaves a cleat that the chock attaches to in place after you remove the chock. The chock takes the pressure instead of the bed. I have Pics posted on this site.
HTH
Bert
Cool, thank you. Now if I can figure out a decent repair procedure.
Sorry, I dont have a solution for you to fix your dent.
I do, however have solution to keep the front of your bed from bending into the cab. The web site below is only one of many systems like it for securing your bike in your truck and not bending the front of the bed. I know several guys that ride and swear by them.
Thank you. Will those work with ATVs? I have an ATV. Would be cool if those are made for ATVs
This might work for you. If you can do it, take out your rear window. If not, I got my whole window replaced for $60 with labor. Anyway, once you get it out, there MIGHT be a gap between the exterior and interior of the cab. You could get most of the dent out with a prybar or something of that nature (def. not a screwdriver). You could also, pull off your bed and have a body shop pull out the dent.
I'm not sure if anyone's still reading this thread, but I've got a problem. The front of my bed has been pushed in far enough that the bed contacts the cab. Now I get a horrific squeeking sound while driving down the road. The problem is that it's not the rail that is bent, but the thin sheet metal below the rail. Does anyone know the best solution to remove the dent to end the squeeking??
Earlier posts mentioned that you could simply pull on the rail while braced against the cab, but that will only work for rail dents. Also, looking at it, the gap between the bed and cab doesn't allow for a crowbar to fit down there to pry the dent out. I was thinking that I would have to remove the bed to get to the dented portion. Is that easy to do? Is there a better solution?
Thanks in advance.
Oh, by the way, my truck is a 2002 V8 extended cab and the bed is already Rhino lined.
I'm not sure if anyone's still reading this thread, but I've got a problem. The front of my bed has been pushed in far enough that the bed contacts the cab. Now I get a horrific squeeking sound while driving down the road. The problem is that it's not the rail that is bent, but the thin sheet metal below the rail. Does anyone know the best solution to remove the dent to end the squeeking??
Earlier posts mentioned that you could simply pull on the rail while braced against the cab, but that will only work for rail dents. Also, looking at it, the gap between the bed and cab doesn't allow for a crowbar to fit down there to pry the dent out. I was thinking that I would have to remove the bed to get to the dented portion. Is that easy to do? Is there a better solution?
Thanks in advance.
Oh, by the way, my truck is a 2002 V8 extended cab and the bed is already Rhino lined.
Just lossen up the 4 or 6 bolts in the bottom of the bed and pull back. The whole bed will shift, and you will want to make sure both sides are equally gapped. Or you could take the whole bed off, but I personally have never tried.
Just lossen up the 4 or 6 bolts in the bottom of the bed and pull back. The whole bed will shift, and you will want to make sure both sides are equally gapped. Or you could take the whole bed off, but I personally have never tried.
Thanks editmars. I didn't know that the bed would slide once the bolts have been lossened. Do you think that it would be better to slide the bed back, pop the dent out, and then return the bed to the original position? Or will there be a problem if the bed remains back a little bit?
Do you know about how far the bed should be able to slide back once the bolts are loose? And do you think there will be any complications with loosening the bolts on a bed that is already rhino lined?
I guess that was two questions but thanks again for your insight.
Do you know about how far the bed should be able to slide back once the bolts are loose? And do you think there will be any complications with loosening the bolts on a bed that is already rhino lined?
I guess that was two questions but thanks again for your insight.
It will slide at most 1"...you could take all the bolts out and slide it more, but you might yank on some wires and lose brake lights (maybe). Just check around under the bed. And the bolts might be covered in rhino lining, so you might have to twist a bit, but I doubt its stronger than what you can do yourself.
Sorry, I dont have a solution for you to fix your dent.
I do, however have solution to keep the front of your bed from bending into the cab. The web site below is only one of many systems like it for securing your bike in your truck and not bending the front of the bed. I know several guys that ride and swear by them.
I saw that when I got the new truck and had some stainless machined. I also filled the 4 corner pockets with machined aluminum billet stock. It's okay now and set up for two bikes forward. I would never put one backward against the gate after seeing the problems with the '07's. Maybe the newer trucks will be better.
Some photos, you can check out the photo website for ideas as well:
First pic shows the 'shoes' and 3 pt tiedown
The middle pic shows the AL block bolted from the Top and bottom with a 1/2" bolt. The front uses 2 Stainless steel eyes for a tie down.
The 3rd photo should show a 5 ft length of stainless steel measuring 3/4" X 1-1/4" I put behind the bed and secured with stainless round head bolts (3/8") to re-enforce the front of the bed against the tie down/ wheel stress. It's tough to show a good pic. All bolts go into a stainless nut and washer or a manufactured 'nutbar'. It was a little work to get behind the bed.
Bigger pictures here: '07 Reg cab 4.7L Tundra pictures from friends & fun photos on webshots
Sorry, could have dug up a newer post than this.....