Has anyone worked with Lexan and used it to form around curves? Here's my idea. With all the rock rash I've got on my lower panels, I'm debating on either banging them out and do the whole body repair thing or just cover it with some Lexan. On another note, I'm getting some rock sliders to avoid future lower panel damage. Back to the idea. I want to use the Lexan(1/8" thick) and use a heat gun to form around the curves of the lower part of the doors. Once it's all molded, have it sprayed with Line-X and have it mounted using some small bolts. For now this is just an idea as fund$$$ is somthing I'm currently lacking. Is this possible and how hard is it mold the Lexan?
im guessing you want lexan because its cheap? (i thought it was not so cheap)
Im sure you might have thought of this but what i would do is take stainless steel plate (maybe even diamond plate) and i would rivet it to your rocker panels with stainless steel rivets (never rust) - that way when they get crushed or hit or ripped you could simply drill out the rivets and replace the panel just like the military does on its H1's. As far as bending them thats out of my area of understanding but i belive the whole rocker section is the same curve so perhaps you could create a Jig to hammer out the plates to the proper curve?
anyways you can find small plates of stainless on ebay or find a local distributor and perhaps you could buy the scraps from a custom plate job.
Lexan isn't cheap. I just thought of Lexan as it came up on reading some stuff on the Pirate 4x4 board. I've thought about stainless or diamond plate. I figured Lexan might be easier to work with as far as molding it to the contours of the truck.
Lexan isn't cheap. I just thought of Lexan as it came up on reading some stuff on the Pirate 4x4 board. I've thought about stainless or diamond plate. I figured Lexan might be easier to work with as far as molding it to the contours of the truck.
So many ideas and projects but not enough $$$
you could also line x the rocker panel's and also add stainless on the quarter panel's just an ideal.
If you're really worried about rock rash then Line-X or Rhino the rocker's. IMO, any attempt at some other material would be futile. You'd end up having to replace it several times, which in the case of Lexan or treadbrite aluminum would continuously be expensive. But, Lexan is a cool idea. What about integrating some sort of slider like metal tubing into the door itself? That'd be gnarly lookin and uber protective. My $.02.
__________________ 2002 Limited TRD Tundra 4x4
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I've done some work with Lexan and as others mentioned it might not be what you are looking for. For one the material is not cheap, last time I bought some I paid 220$ for a 4'x4' sheet. As to bending it with heat I have found it can be tempermental. If you give it too much heat it will bubble and get weak. You also can burn it when it gets hot. I found you have to get to just the right temp to get it to bend.
I think some of the others here can come up with better ideas, Good Luck
Ive edged polycarbonate into lenses for glasses. I think you're just better off getting it line-xed or buy an old beater taco or chevy for an offroader.
Are you looking for it as metal protection or to keep paint from chipping? The sprayed on Line-x would probably be the easiest to form to the curve. If you want to protect the paint either the 3m paint film or for more abuse the thicker headlight film.
My main reason to use the Lexan is to cover up the rock rash that's already there. Then Line-X the Lexan. I think diamond plate is looking to be the better route and then line-x the diamond plate.
Has anyone worked with Lexan and used it to form around curves? Here's my idea. With all the rock rash I've got on my lower panels, I'm debating on either banging them out and do the whole body repair thing or just cover it with some Lexan. On another note, I'm getting some rock sliders to avoid future lower panel damage. Back to the idea. I want to use the Lexan(1/8" thick) and use a heat gun to form around the curves of the lower part of the doors. Once it's all molded, have it sprayed with Line-X and have it mounted using some small bolts. For now this is just an idea as fund$$$ is somthing I'm currently lacking. Is this possible and how hard is it mold the Lexan?
Mike, I worked with Lexan quite a bit in the 90's for lizard cages and the like. AFAIK Lexan is the most durable substance known to man...With the right heat it can be molded (although this weakens the material) Steam will generally turn it white, but a quick dip in boiling water will generally allowe it to be bent somewhat without deforming. Most times you wind up witha crease and weaker material. And at over $100 for a 4 x 8 sheet, it's not cheap to learn on. But it can be drilled, cut with a recip saw and is generally resistant to mechnical wear. There are a few companies that I know back in NJ who can aquaform Lexan to do curves and the like for fish tanks, but these are generally expensive. I used to bug them for scrap for project work and they almost always stuff that I could use. In your case a botched, curved corner, Lexan tank could use a few useful pieces. Start with TAP Plastics ( in the phone book and start hunting for Lexan dealers/fabricators. I would think Rockrails would be cheaper, but I would KILL for some Lexan body panels.
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If it were my truck I would have it fixed and repainted, then have the clear film, Clear Shield, applied.
I have it on my Camry and it is the best thing. It will be on all my cars from now on and in even more areas after seeing how well it holds up and hides/blends in and barely noticeable.
I would think you could have those pounded out and repainted in the $250 range, then spend another $150 on the clear film. $400 total. I will bet you will easily spend that on diamond plate plus Line-X.
__________________
1996 T100, 180,000 and counting
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
Mike, what about DIY Bondo and then just Line-X the whole enchilada. Did you know that Line-X is bomb proof?
Just brainstorming..
I've thought about that but, I don't want to have to worry about smoothing it out. I'd rather straighten the driver side door crease and then cover it. As well as just cover the pass door. I'm thinking maybe covering up the door up to the moldings. Thanks for the info!
Who's worked with Lexan???
Linear Mode
