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Interior & ExteriorDiscussions about the interior, and exterior of your vehicle.
This is a discussion thread titled "Squeeky bed when hit bumps ?", within the Interior & Exterior forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I found the fix for my dbl cab squeek in the tsb's. It involved unbolting the top of the rear shocks, flipping the rubbers over, and putting it back together. Squeek gone!
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2005 SR5 Dbl Cab, Silver Sky Metalic, Camburgs, 285 Nittos, Truxedo Lo-Pro, Line-X, HD Headlight wiring, 90\100w Phillips Rallys, GT seat covers, Fog light mod, Loud a$$ air horn, Debadged (visors too), VSE subwoofer, Rear sway bar, tailgate lock, led's, prodigy controller, Scan Gauge II, NO muffler..........
4 months after lifting my truck I noticed a squeaking coming from the back of my truck. Turns out it was the leaf springs. After get under the truck to my relief the squeak was comming from spring pack and not the bushings. Alot easier to get lube (silicone) in there to fix the problem. No more squeaks
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2003 Tundra Imperial Jade TRD offroad Performance modifications
2.5 Camburg C/O w/ King 14" 600lb springs, Skidrow Automotive Skidplate
285x75x16 Goodyear Wrangler ATS, 16x8 Ivan Stewart Wheels
4.30 ring and pinion gears, Stock exhaust w/ Magnaflow 18" muffler, TrueFlow filter, Superlift TruSpeed Cosmetic modifications
Debadged, De-decaled and De-labeled sun visors
Pace Edwards Retractable Cover, Toyota Sport Grille
TRD radiator cap, TRD oil cap
RS 3200 Plus Upgrade Modification wishlist
TRD or JBA titanium headers
JBA or possible custom y-pipe
TRD supercharger
IPT valve body mod
Custom Offroad Bumper
Demello offroad sliders
rear disc conversion
Moonroof and power sliding rear window
Where does it ever end
I just took my 04 DC in for warrenty and that same issue. They told me it had bad shocks and they are replacing them. Truck only has 16000 miles on it. Hmm bu tthat squeek is anoying as hell isnt it ehehhe.
I found the fix for my dbl cab squeak in the tsb's. It involved unbolting the top of the rear shocks, flipping the rubbers over, and putting it back together. Squeak gone!
I did mine just last weekend. I've had the squeak for over a year and finally had enough. Found the TSB and no more "bed cricket"!
BTW. The TSB just calls for you to move the washer with the "hat" from between the bottom bushing and the frame to between the top bushing and the frame.
I did mine just last weekend. I've had the squeak for over a year and finally had enough. Found the TSB and no more "bed cricket"!
BTW. The TSB just calls for you to move the washer with the "hat" from between the bottom bushing and the frame to between the top bushing and the frame.
how easy was it for you to do?did you need a jack and such or what?
__________________ - justin
Former Tundra Owner.Now Driving a 2001 Corvette.
I just finished this on my 2001 Limited a couple of weeks ago. I went ahead and spent .90 each for a couple of new lock nuts for the top of the shocks. Being lazy, I paid my local garage $20 to do it for me, since they had a lift. You could do it without a lift or jacking, however. Just requires the removal of the shock (the bottom attachment bolt will probably benefit from some penetrating oil ahead of time), turning the top bushing "upsidedown" so that the metal "hat" contacts the top of the mounting flange rather than the bottom, and reinstallling the shock. Total time at the garage was around 25 minutes. Could have done it in the driveway except for not being in the mood to crawl around under the truck. (The TSB has clear graphics that describe this simple process.)
By the way, this mod works like magic--it ended three years of listening to a squeak on each sharp bump. Apparently, moving the metal to metal contact from the initial impact to the rebound portion of the cycle is all that's required. It really works!
You don't have to remove the shock. Just undo the top bolt, compress the shock down, then pull it way from the frame enough to get the top washers and bushings off. The most time consuming part was getting the nuts off the top of the shock. After some persuasion I broke them loose by holding the tip of the shock with a crescent wrench while turning the nut with a box end. After a while I just gripped the shock itself to keep it from turning.
It's not too bad.
BTW I did jack each side up a little bit as I worked on it.