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This is a discussion thread titled "Squeeky bed when hit bumps ?", within the Interior & Exterior forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.


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Old 05-06-2005, 11:40 AM
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Default Squeeky bed when hit bumps ? (TBM-Interior & Exterior)

Anybody's back bed squeek alot when you hit a bump? Is this typical? a Fix? Bolt or lube? I can't tell where it comes from. Thanks guys
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Old 05-06-2005, 11:57 AM
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BRTundra,
There is a TSB available for your model that should correct the problem - to get access to the TSB database you will need a membership.
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Old 05-06-2005, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeshoffstall
BRTundra,
There is a TSB available for your model that should correct the problem - to get access to the TSB database you will need a membership.


Mine has the same noise-do you know the TSB name/number? I looked but could not find anything.


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Old 05-06-2005, 05:56 PM
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Default squeeeeeeek

I found the fix for my dbl cab squeek in the tsb's. It involved unbolting the top of the rear shocks, flipping the rubbers over, and putting it back together. Squeek gone!
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Old 05-06-2005, 06:01 PM
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Is it the bed or the leaf springs squeaking?
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Old 05-07-2005, 11:21 PM
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I found the TSb guys, its' #SU0003-04 dated 12/24/04 revised 1/19/05. Let's all make sure we take advantage of this and get it fixed!!!
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Old 05-09-2005, 05:35 PM
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Default squeaking bed

Quote:
Originally Posted by boody
Is it the bed or the leaf springs squeaking?


I think mine is the bed. I still can't find that TSB?!
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Old 05-09-2005, 06:03 PM
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With the thread title as such, I thought for sure the moderator would delete it!
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Old 05-27-2005, 08:33 PM
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4 months after lifting my truck I noticed a squeaking coming from the back of my truck. Turns out it was the leaf springs. After get under the truck to my relief the squeak was comming from spring pack and not the bushings. Alot easier to get lube (silicone) in there to fix the problem. No more squeaks
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Old 06-14-2005, 11:08 PM
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I just took my 04 DC in for warrenty and that same issue. They told me it had bad shocks and they are replacing them. Truck only has 16000 miles on it. Hmm bu tthat squeek is anoying as hell isnt it ehehhe.
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Old 06-14-2005, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roblafd1
I found the fix for my dbl cab squeak in the tsb's. It involved unbolting the top of the rear shocks, flipping the rubbers over, and putting it back together. Squeak gone!
I did mine just last weekend. I've had the squeak for over a year and finally had enough. Found the TSB and no more "bed cricket"!

BTW. The TSB just calls for you to move the washer with the "hat" from between the bottom bushing and the frame to between the top bushing and the frame.
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Old 06-15-2005, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fly
I did mine just last weekend. I've had the squeak for over a year and finally had enough. Found the TSB and no more "bed cricket"!

BTW. The TSB just calls for you to move the washer with the "hat" from between the bottom bushing and the frame to between the top bushing and the frame.
how easy was it for you to do?did you need a jack and such or what?
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Old 06-15-2005, 01:01 PM
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is this something the dealership can do if the truck is still under warranty? or will they look at me like i'm stupid when i bring it in?
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Old 06-15-2005, 01:08 PM
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I just finished this on my 2001 Limited a couple of weeks ago. I went ahead and spent .90 each for a couple of new lock nuts for the top of the shocks. Being lazy, I paid my local garage $20 to do it for me, since they had a lift. You could do it without a lift or jacking, however. Just requires the removal of the shock (the bottom attachment bolt will probably benefit from some penetrating oil ahead of time), turning the top bushing "upsidedown" so that the metal "hat" contacts the top of the mounting flange rather than the bottom, and reinstallling the shock. Total time at the garage was around 25 minutes. Could have done it in the driveway except for not being in the mood to crawl around under the truck. (The TSB has clear graphics that describe this simple process.)

By the way, this mod works like magic--it ended three years of listening to a squeak on each sharp bump. Apparently, moving the metal to metal contact from the initial impact to the rebound portion of the cycle is all that's required. It really works!
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Old 06-15-2005, 02:21 PM
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You don't have to remove the shock. Just undo the top bolt, compress the shock down, then pull it way from the frame enough to get the top washers and bushings off. The most time consuming part was getting the nuts off the top of the shock. After some persuasion I broke them loose by holding the tip of the shock with a crescent wrench while turning the nut with a box end. After a while I just gripped the shock itself to keep it from turning.
It's not too bad.

BTW I did jack each side up a little bit as I worked on it.
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